Best Cordovan Podcasts (2024)

1
EP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. Plastic 46:04

7h ago46:04

46:04

Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashlan…

1
EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather 58:36

10d ago58:36

58:36

First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCo Get a wall…

1
EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands 1:13:26

1M ago1:13:26

1:13:26

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess. 0:00 Topics …

1
Chisos Founder Will Roman on How Cowboy Boots Will Save Us All 43:31

1M ago43:31

43:31

For the closeout episode of Shoecast season 11, Ben sits down with Will Roman, founder of Chisos Boots, a young and growing brand out of Austin, Texas that offers one of the best values in a legitimately well made, well designed cowboy boot. They cover how Chisos in some ways started with a lemonade stand, how Will ended up in León Mexico and fell …

1
EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective 1:21:31

2M ago1:21:31

1:21:31

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 0:00 What’s a podcast? 0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome 45:25 Boot Camp 57:35 Leather Perspective https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.…

1
Exploring What "Handmade" Truly Means With Leatherworker and Bootmaker Bob Henderson 1:07:25

2M ago1:07:25

1:07:25

For the penultimate episode of the 11th season of the Stitchdown Shoecast, I’m quite excited indeed to be chatting with the just ridiculously talented man they call Bob Henderson. Bob is the operations manager at Popov Leather, the bustling leathergoods workshop over yonder in British Columbia, Canada—and over the last few years has been sucked up …

1
EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks 1:09:31

2M ago1:09:31

1:09:31

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. 0:00 American Original 1:08 Is CXL Overrated? 19:12 Is Alden Overpriced? 30:03 WWII Boots 38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago 52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Ro…

1
Fritz Sr. and Jr. of Seidel Tanning on the Art, Science, and Challenges of Making Leather 1:01:51

2M ago1:01:51

1:01:51

This time Ben sits down with two, count ‘em TWO Fritz Seidels: Fritz Jr. and Fritz Sr., who every day are continuing on the tradition of the four-generation, 79-year-old Siedel Tanning Corp in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. In addition to getting the lowdown on some longtime Seidel favorite leathers and overlooked gems, we get into Seidel’s history and flui…

1
EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs 1:23:18

2M ago1:23:18

1:23:18

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce. https://www.turnkeymadison.com/ ht…

1
Shoe Care Essentials, How Many Boots is Too Many, Brands We Want Back...It's The Shoebag!! 1:22:43

2M ago1:22:43

1:22:43

Before he bolts for a very important trip to the bread store, Ticho is back in the leather-smelly homestead for perhaps our most comprehensive Shoebag episode ever, in which we discuss what shoe care products are essential and which you don't really need, brands we'd love to see restored to their former glory, what to wear with Red Wings (vague hin…

1
Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt 1:16:24

2M ago1:16:24

1:16:24

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horwe…

1
EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting 1:58:16

3M ago1:58:16

1:58:16

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more. 0:00 Best Shell C…

1
EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️ 1:26:18

3M ago1:26:18

1:26:18

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. 0:00 What is Aniline Leather 8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing 14:0…

1
Bespoke Shoemaker Sebastian Tarek on West-End Outwork and Judging the World's Greatest Shoemaking Competition 54:57

3M ago54:57

54:57

When London (by way of Australia) bespoke shoemaker Sebastian Tarek began making shoes in high school, his grandmother let him in on a little secret: he had been preceded in his journey by 18 generations of family cordwainers. After years of schooling—including at the famed Cordwainers College in Hackney, London—he eventually ended up settling into…

1
EP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to Know 1:21:56

3M ago1:21:56

1:21:56

Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here. 0:00 Genuine Leathers 0:21 What is suede? 9:10 What is rough out and waxe…

1
Actor Adam Goldberg on His Lifelong Quest to Remake James Dean's Boots 1:11:01

3M ago1:11:01

1:11:01

Adam Goldberg has quite legitimately always been one of my favorite actors—and from Dazed & Confused, to the Fargo TV show, to A Beautiful Mind, he has always been EXCELLENTLY attired, right down to his boots. But he doesn't just play a person who cares about boots on TV and in movies! Adam is a very real-deal obsessive who's neck deep in Clinch, Z…

1
Tony & Tobias of Wyatt & Dad Cobblers on Building a Shoe Repair Mini-Empire 1:01:31

3M ago1:01:31

1:01:31

Back in 1989, Tony Wyatt and his brother Lance launched Wyatt & Dad Cobbler Company (and even trained their retired-preacher dad to do shoe repair work, so no it's not just a clever name). Thirty five years later, the operation has seen endless swings in the cobbling industry, weathering them as well as any operation out there. The goal was always …

1
Goods & Services' Rory Fortune on Handwelting Sneakers, and the Shell Cordovan BIRKENCHONKS 52:14

4M ago52:14

52:14

The sneaker and welted footwear worlds are (very slowly) colliding, and Rory Fortune is smack in the middle of the two In 2019, Rory and his wife Lauren set up shop in LA's design district to open Goods & Services, a half cobbler shop / half sneaker customization pacesetter. Custom resoles—often accomplished via the tricky process of converting cem…

1
The (Mostly) Complete History of Boots with Bata Shoe Museum Director Elizabeth Semmelhack 1:23:14

4M ago1:23:14

1:23:14

In one of our favorite—and certainly the most sprawling—Shoecast episodes to date, Ben chats with Elizabeth Semmelhack, director and curator of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, Canada. Which I believe is safe to say—thanks to more than 15,000 shoes, boots, and related artifacts covering 4,500 years of human history—is the world’s preeminent dedicat…

1
EP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, Horsebutt 1:05:26

5M ago1:05:26

1:05:26

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes 4:03 Arabica Lux Leather 6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss 9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan 10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers 14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather 16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot 22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf? 27:11 What Scent Does the Tanner…

1
Sagara's Bagus Satrio on the Indonesian Bootmaking Explosion 44:50

5M ago44:50

44:50

Sagara head man Bagus Satrio is one of my favorite people in the whole bootmaking game. I absolutely love the work he and his team do—his Cordmasters need to be at or near the top of ANYONE’S best monkey boots ranking—and he’s just a hugely interesting and wonderful man. Sagara’s almost 15 years deep doing exceptional work, and about a half decade …

1
EP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing Secrets 1:42:28

5M ago1:42:28

1:42:28

Going deep on leather care. 0:00 1990’s Miami Painting 1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide 4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine 7:58 Leather is Designed to Last 12:31 Shoe Trees 13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine 15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather 17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap 20:59 Use Less Polish 23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax …

1
Ken Diamond on the Rare Satisfaction of Making Boots by Hand 48:31

5M ago48:31

48:31

Back in the 2010s, Ken Diamond had a booming moccasin business in Vancouver—celebrities wore his shoes, which also secured a hallowed spot on the shelves of Istetan, the Tokyo department store that's home to likely the world's great shoe selection. But at the brand's peak, a bit burned out and seeking something fresh, Ken bailed on it all. Today, 1…

1
Curtis From Alden Madison on How to Size Into Any Last, and That One Time He Saw Harrison Ford 1:14:11

6M ago1:14:11

1:14:11

Alden Madison is one of the essential New York City shoe stores, stocking and selling more Alden shoes and boots than likely anywhere else in the world. This week, Ben and Ticho sit down with shop co-owner Curtis Bosch to talk about how he got sucked in by the good-shoe tractor beam in the first place, how their makeup program has taken off in wild…

1
Shoebag!! Craziest Break-In Stories, Plus Ticho & Ben's Only Five Forever Pairs: Revisited! 58:08

6M ago58:08

58:08

Long, long ago, Ben & Ticho did a Shoecast episode in which they had to (just for pretend, don't worry) get rid of all their shoes and boots—FOREVER—and only keep five pairs that just made sense for their lives. A lot has changed since then! So we went back to revisit our picks, and the results are...interesting! Also on this Shoebag episode: why t…

1
Cutting it Up With Cobbling Legend Steve Doudaklian of Bedo's Leatherworks 1:15:35

7M ago1:15:35

1:15:35

Ten years ago, Steve Doudaklian looked at a camera, said “good morning shoe repair family”, fixed up some shoes, and put a grainy video on YouTube as a service to cobblers around the world. A decade later, Steve’s videos still don’t look all that different from his first—but now they’re often watched by millions, and stand as perhaps the measuring …

1
EP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.2 1:03:07

7M ago1:03:07

1:03:07

Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half. 0:00 Alden Indy Boot 11:30 Making Mistakes 16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands 19:37 Quality Testing Methods 22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter? 31:17 Hunting 32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat 39:4…

1
Sarah Guerin aka Saboteuse Knows More About Massachusetts Shoemaking History Than Anyone Alive 1:17:22

7M ago1:17:22

1:17:22

To call Sarah Madeline Tierney Guerin an incredibly skilled cowboy boot maker would be accurate—and also highly incomplete. Sarah is also an artist, a historian, an educator, a storyteller, a preservationist, someone who just thinks about things differently than most of the rest of us, and quite possibly the person who knows the most of anyone in t…

1
EP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2. 46:48

7M ago46:48

46:48

Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh …

1
Boot Camp!!! Ben & Ticho Recap Our Inaugural Fine Leather Footwear Gathering 51:09

7M ago51:09

51:09

So, Ticho forced Ben to talk about Boot Camp, the fine leather footwear gathering / world's fair of boots and shoes and leather / celebration of shoemaking / big ol' party that Stitchdown just put on a few weeks back in Industry City, Brooklyn. The two get into plenty of aggressive reminiscing—about the community connections forged and strengthened…

1
Grenson's Tim Little on UK vs Outsourced Manufacturing, Triple Welts & "Throwing Away the Pompous Bit" 51:05

8M ago51:05

51:05

“Let’s just change it up a bit” is how Tim Little describes his approach to shoe design for Grenson. It might as well be Tim's ongoing mantra. After years in advertising—including handling the Adidas footwear account—Tim decided it was time to change it up a bit and make some welted footwear. Tim Little Shoes was born, with Tim working with various…

1
EP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot Camp 59:42

8M ago59:42

59:42

Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween…

1
Fifth-Generation Tanner Ed Gallun on Milwaukee's Leathermaking History, What Separates Great Leather from the Rest, and More 48:34

8M ago48:34

48:34

Ed Gallun was born into tanning—and even though the American tanning industry isn't what it once was for much of the life of the tannery his great-great-great grandfather started in 1858 in Milwaukee, he simply can't get away from it. That's a very good thing. Ed relaunched Gallun Leathers in 2022, focusing on tanning incredibly interesting, dare w…

1
EP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing Explained 50:19

8M ago50:19

50:19

Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcas…

1
EP28: Rare Shell Cordovan 55:20

9M ago55:20

55:20

Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on …

1
Rose Anvil's FINAL Take on Alden Indys, Plus Behind The Scenes of the RA Operation 1:10:46

9M ago1:10:46

1:10:46

We're back with Weston Kay, the one and only Rose Anvil from the new streaming video platform called "YouTube", to discuss the shame he feels for the criminal act of cutting a pair of 100+ year old WWI boots in half, how he outfitted his Rose Anvil Builds workshop with some incredible old cobbling equipment, why it's much harder than it should be f…

1
Crown Northampton's Chris Woodford on The Rise and Fall (& Hopeful Rise Again) of Northamptonshire Shoemaking 1:13:59

9M ago1:13:59

1:13:59

Chris Woodford is a bit of a madman. And he’s pretty much thrilled about that. The fifth-generation shoemaker founded Crown Northampton—maker of some of the world’s best-made sneakers—as a reaction to watching his father’s business unravel, along with so much else of the iconic Northampton, England shoemaking trade. After watching factory after fac…

1
Kustom Kraft's Dennis Kieback on Starting a Handmade Bootmaking Business, Funky German Leathers, and Getting in the "Flow State" 34:07

9M ago34:07

34:07

When Dennis Kieback made his first pair of Kustom Kraft boots, he’d barely even seen a pair of Red Wings before. But the bookmaking bug had bitten him hard—and the Kiel, Germany craftsman was infected. Now 25+ pairs into his bootmaking career, Dennis sits down with Ben to chat how tricky it is to get a business started (“who wants boots from someon…

1
The Shoe Service Institute of America's Justin Bennett on the Shoe Supply Game, Cobbling's Future, and More 41:33

10M ago41:33

41:33

Since 1904, the Shoe Service Institute of America has operated as an essential champion for the shoe repair industry. This week, Ben sat down with SSIA board member Justin Bennett (day job: Chicago-based shoe store/repair shop supplier Justin Blair & Co) to catch up on what happened at the recent 116th annual SSIA Convention, including the organiza…

1
Shoebag!! Next Big Makers? How Should Handsewns Fit?? Is the Thunderdome Too Commercial??? And More! 1:01:13

10M ago1:01:13

1:01:13

Ben and Ticho are back to tear open the Shoebag once more to answer probing listener questions such as: how should handsewns fit when they're NEW? What's the best approach to trying out new makers on the scene—and who should you keep eyes open for short-term? What are you doing wrong with (get this)... shoe bags?? Are we nearing a great-boots bubbl…

1
Are Handmade Shoes Better Than GYW? Shoe Scams & Talking to A Finalist from the World Championship of Patina (The Shell Cordovan Podcast Ep. 5 ) 35:52

10M ago35:52

35:52

This week I share a discussion I had with Alberto Suastez one of the finalists in the World Championship of Patina from the London Super Trunk Show. I also discuss topics from avoiding shoe scams to whether or not hand welted shoes are better than GYW shoes. 0:00 - The Shell Cordovan Podcast Ep. 5 - Avoiding Shoe Scams & A Discussion w. Patina Cont…

1
Springline's Michael James Breaks Down The Mystical Art of Lastmaking 37:44

10M ago37:44

37:44

Michael James is known as “Northampton’s Last Man”—and after nearly 40 years in the game, the director of Springline lastmakers most certainly lives up to the cheeky moniker. In a rangy chat with Michael, we cover how Springline creates some of the world’s finest production and bespoke lasts (plus shoe trees), the inherent talents required to be a …

1
The comments section & why social media can ruin the menswear revolution (TSP-4 27:46

11M ago27:46

27:46

The Shellvedge Podcast Episode 4, I discuss recent posts from @theshoesnob_official , review the comments from a recent Reddit post that no longer exists, share my opinion on the menswear and traditional footwear community and share what resonates most with me about classic footwear. The Shoe Snob Catella Shoemaker Feature Enter the NY Super Trunk …

1
Graham Ebner is the Next Big Thing in Bespoke Cowboy Boots 1:05:02

11M ago1:05:02

1:05:02

When Graham Ebner says he makes “really nice, really expensive” cowboy boots, it’s somehow barely a brag. In just five short years the Austin, Texas native (“to be clear, I grew up FIRMLY in the suburbs”) has established an impressive foothold for himself in the pantheon of rising bespoke cowboy makers. After training under the legendary Lee Miller…

1
The Shellvedge Podcast - Patina Championship | Wasting $$ on Shoes | Tip: How to Talk to Shoemakers 36:50

11M ago36:50

36:50

In the 3rd Episode of The Shellvedge Podcast, we discuss the World Championship of Patina and Shoe Shining event from @shoegazingblog @kirbyallison @theshoesnob_official , as well as responding to your comments, and I weigh in on the topics of wasting your money on shoes and how to build relationships with shoemakers. The Shellvedge Podcast is now …

1
DEEP Inside Russell Moccasin—How The 125-Year-Old Brand Builds Some of the World's Most Unique Boots 1:13:48

11M ago1:13:48

1:13:48

Just about one year ago, Luke Kolbie and his business partner Joe Julian took over ownership of 125-year-old Russell Moccasin: the Berlin, Wisconsin bookmaker that has outfitted presidents, kings, outdoorsmen of all stripes, and some very smart/stylish Japanese people. Certain changes were made right out of the gate—which always stirs up more than …

1
Alden Indy, Warning to Shoe Peers & ⁠ Champion of Shoemaking (TSC.2) 30:46

11M ago30:46

30:46

Tonight I talk about the 4th world championship of shoemaking via the Shoegazing. I share my thoughts on a recent video from ⁠ and a video from ⁠ about the Alden Indy. For this weeks rant, I share a shoe care tip for simple cleaning techniques and share my thoughts on the topic of responsibly sharing shoe care demonstrations on the internet. Trea…

1
EP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, Bourbon 1:35:30

1y ago1:35:30

1:35:30

Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the lates…

1
EP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from Anywhere 1:40:11

1y ago1:40:11

1:40:11

Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle. 0:00 Work from anywhere 4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques 7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials 13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather 17:19 The Best Material 21:10 Designing for Different Markets 23:12 Selling on Amazon 26:13 Leather …

1
EP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, Bison 52:45

1y ago52:45

52:45

What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is th…

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