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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
 
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over sto ...
 
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over sto ...
 
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I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.By Neely Quinn.
 
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of H ...…
 
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of H ...…
 
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
 
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike. Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common ...…
 
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike. Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common ...…
 
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating he ...…
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating he ...…
 
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "lo ...…
 
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "lo ...…
 
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.By TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right? WRONG! A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendon ...…
 
Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right? WRONG! A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendon ...…
 
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.By trainingbeta podcast.
 
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, ...…
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, ...…
 
This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you. Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) ...…
 
This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you. Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) ...…
 
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons a ...…
 
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons a ...…
 
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.By TrainingBeta, Neely Quinn.
 
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.By Neely Quinn, TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking ...…
 
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking ...…
 
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valu ...…
 
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valu ...…
 
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France. 10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - Fra ...…
 
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France. 10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - Fra ...…
 
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "talent stack", details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for m ...…
 
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "talent stack", details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for m ...…
 
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
 
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science w ...…
 
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science w ...…
 
I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
 
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