Episode #35: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 5

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, and more! It's 45 minutes of training-for-climbing information and fun. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:48 - Question #1 - What exactly is "supercompensation" and how does the intensity and frequency of my training affect supercompensation and my strength and fitness gains?

14:45 - Question #2 - Are calisthenics and gymnastic exercises beneficial for climbers? If so, how can I best add them to my program?

20:35 - Question #3 - For the past two years I've been stuck in a cycle of injury including both of my elbows and one shoulder. I tend to be hyper mobile...so perhaps I'm just not meant to be a climber. What do you think Eric? Is there any hope for me to have an injury-free climbing season?

26:10 - Question #4 - I'm a veteran climber, with lots of alpine experience, but I consider myself rather weak (I can redpoint 5.12c). I'm beginning a hangboard training program with weighted hangs and repeaters--can I do both of these in the same workout session or would that be counterproductive? Can you give me some advice on how to hangboard train effectively?

31:10 - Question #5 - I'm a 5.11 sport and gym climber, but I struggle at leading 5.9 trad (gear) routes...due to fear? How can I begin to "mental train" to improve my headspace for success on harder traditional climbs?

37:00 - Question #6 - I have climbed 5.14 and V10, yet on my recent (first) visit to the Red River Gorge I got totally spanked on the long steep endurance routes of a much lower grade? How can I better prepare for climbing at steep crags like at the Red River Gorge?

41:50 - Question #7 - I'm an avid boulderer with a background in cycling and running. Right now, I'm running for up to 45 minutes, a few days per week, because it makes me feel better and keep my weight in check for climbing. Is this amount of running hurting my recovery from climbing and training for climbing? When's the best time to do my runs--on climbing or on non-climbing days?

• Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage >>
• Listen to Podcast #34 on the vital topic of tendon health and what you can do to improve tendon and ligament pulley strength and endurance.

NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

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