Californian Rabbit Breed - Laburnum - Kidney - Rabbit and Lion

Hare of the rabbit podcast

Californian rabbit

Today only the New Zealand white surpasses the Californian in its popularity as a commercial rabbit. The Californian also contributed its genes to a specialized modern commercial breed called the Altex, which we covered in one of the first episodes.

Now we covered the Himalayan rabbit Breed a while ago, and The Himalayan plays an important part in many other breed's history, especially the Californian's, which looks like a large, meaty version of it. The Californian was made by crossing Himalayans with New Zealands and a few other breeds (some Californian breeders say it is just Himalayan and New Zealand, while others say the Standard Chinchilla was mixed in too). The Californian was added to many other breeds (like Champagne d'Argents and some lines of Cinnamon) to improve body type, so Himalayan marked sports pop up sometimes.

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History: Californians unlike many breeds we have covered that were named for a place they were not actually from, the Californians were indeed created and bred in California. The year was 1923. George S. West was a Kansan who had moved to Lynwood in Southern California. Being a rabbit fur buyer, he heard the stories from the breeders of up to a half of each NZ litter being ‘woolies’ - New Zealands with recessive wool coats due to the angoras that had been used in the early part of the 1900’s to improve the density of the New Zealand fur. Also being a commercial rabbit breeder with some pre-veterinarian and genetics training, Mr. West was ideally suited to take on the challenge of a breeding program designed to create the ‘perfect’ meat rabbit with dense desirable fur. Standard Chinchilla rabbits and Himalayans were chosen due to the various qualities of the fur. Five years of persistent breeding finally produced a small, chinchilla-colored male prototype with all the correct fur traits. This buck was then line-bred with Mr. West’s several hundred recessive-angora-free New Zealands in order to put commercial meat bodies inside those pelts. Interestingly, despite heavy demand for Mr. West’s new "Cochinelle" rabbits, as they were called initially, he refused to relinquish any breeding stock except to two well-trusted Southern California breeder friends of his. The two breeders together with Mr. West pursued the vision for the breed for another couple years. The three breeders, Mr. West, Mr. Wesley Dixon of Glendale and Mr. Roy Fisher of Pomona, together were instrumental in perfecting the Californian as we know it today.

The first Californian rabbit was shown at South Gate, California in 1928. The 1932 ARBA Convention in Pittsburgh, PA. was the first convention that the Californian was shown. The breed was given a working Standard in 1939. On March 7, 1948 a special meeting was held in Bakersfield, California to complete a new Standard that had been presented at the 1947 Milwaukee, WI. Convention for discussion.

The national Californian Specialty Club was founded in 1946, and the name changed to Californian Rabbit Specialty Club in 1959 to eliminate any confusion as to 'what' was Californian.

In 1946, A. O. Kelly Jr., of University City, Missouri, started the organization of the Californian Specialty Club. The club was started to stimulate the improvement of the Californian rabbit and make it prominent on the show table.

In early 1947 a Constitution and By-Laws was adopted and application made to the American Rabbit Breeders Association Fifty members from sixteen states were in the original group. In 1948 Wesley Dixon was elected President and by 1952 the club had grown to 290 members from 30 states and Hawaii.

The Standard as drawn up and approved at the meeting was mailed to the membership for approval. The Standard was approved, presented, and accepted by the ARBA at the Long Beach Convention in 1949. Prior to 1955 some other changes were made in the Standard and again a clarification was made concerning smut on the usable portion of the pelt. Our standard was rewritten in 1965 under chairman William A. Schaefer of Windsor, Connecticut. The Standard was updated again in 1980 with points allotted for condition. The 1991-95 Standard had some minor word changes and the 1995-2000 standard was updated with wording and some changes in weight classifications. The "New 2011-15 ARBA Standard of Perfection" will be available at the ARBA Convention in November held at Minneapolis, Minnesota

Appearance: The Californian has the consummate commercial meat rabbit body. It is very muscular, full in the shoulders, and as deep as it is wide in the hindquarters. The usable pelt is completely white, while the points retain the Himalayan coloration. The Californian rabbit has big ears (although not as large as the ears of Flemish Giants) and is large in size, weighing around 10 to 12 pounds. This breed's coloration is similar to the Himalayan, with a white body and colored points. The variety (color) is normally white with spots and they don't normally have any other color to them. The does usually get up to 12 pounds and the bucks only get up to 10-11 pounds. Senior bucks should weigh 8-10 pounds (3.6 - 4.545 kg), with 9 pounds (4 kg) being ideal. Senior does should weigh 8 1/2 - 10 1/2 pounds (3.86 - 4.7 kg), with 9 ½ pounds (4.3 kg) being ideal. The UK standard offers no upper weight limit, however lists 9 1/2 pounds (4.309kg) as the desirable weight. This rabbit breed has a commercial body type and should ideally weigh between 8-11 lbs. They also have a muscular body with full shoulders and hindquarters, which are as deep as they are wide. Their coat is usually completely white with Himalayan-like markings. Their ears are broad and medium in length, and should point straight up. Coat The Californian rabbit breed’s coat is dense and coarse and not soft, so petting them probably feels better for the rabbit than for a human. Its fur is short and the undercoat should be dense. You may find they tend to shed its coat more in the spring than other season of the year. To keep as much of their fur out of your home as possible, simply groom them with a bristled brush outdoors 1-2 times per week when they are shedding the most. Otherwise, once a week or once every two weeks should be more than enough. Colors The only color accepted by the ARBA when it comes to Californian rabbits is white with markings as dark as possible. They have black/near-black markings on their nose, feet, ears and tail and must have pink eyes (like that of an albino rabbit). Cals are pure white except for their ears, nose, feet, and tail, which are black, blue, chocolate, or lilac. While in the US Californians are accepted in black points only, in the UK, Californian Rabbits are accepted in black, blue, chocolate, and lilac varieties. The Californian color is caused by the ch gene, often called the Himalayan gene. This is just one step up from albino; color is restricted to the points. The pointed white color is temperature sensitive: cold makes it darker and heat makes it lighter. (Notice that the points are farthest away from the internal heat source of the rabbit.) Californian rabbits in cooler climates will naturally have darker point color, so some breeders in the south actually have “chiller room” rabbitries in which to grow out their show rabbits! Californians have red eyes and very dark, almost black, points - nose, ears, feet and tail. Any color on the usable portion of the pelt is a disqualification from the show table. This can be tricky, since the pigment is temperature sensitive - colder climates may induce ‘smut,’ or coloration, where it does not belong. A molt can, however, remove the tinted fur, which will grow back white once again under correct conditions.

Feed and housing Commercial rabbit pellets are often recommended, though this is a disputed claim amongst rabbit rescue shelters and commercial breeders. Pellets are high in fat and protein needed for a healthy rabbit.Feed 1/2 cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight every day. Ensure a steady supply of fresh water or the rabbit may not eat the feed ration. For rabbits under 8 months of age, feed unlimited plain grass pellets. House rabbits may be fed 2 cups of fresh rinsed greens, (NO iceberg lettuce) vegetables (stay away from greens high in iron) should be given daily, and fresh fruit sparingly. Free choice hay, such as timothy-grass, should be unlimited and changed daily. Alfalfa hay should not be offered free choice to rabbits over 8 months of age because it is too rich in calcium. Fruits and vegetables can also be used as incentives or treats to reward your bunny whenever they complete a task or obey a command (such as sitting, staying, or using their litter box). make sure to research what kind of fruit/leafy green/vegetable you’re planning on feeding them, as some are not recommended for rabbits. Outside housing should protect the rabbit from wind and rain/snow. Most breeders use wire cages to keep rabbits clean and healthy. Cages are typically 30 inches by 30 inches in size, with nursing does and grow out pens being 30 inches by 36 inches. 14 gauge GAW wire is ideal, as the thicker diameter provides more support for heavy breeds. A resting mat, such as a sheet of wood or slotted plastic, can be placed in the cage to reduce chances of sore hocks. The floor wire should be 1" x 0.5" welded wire, and the walls should be either 1"X 1" or 1" x 2". Never use hardware cloth for flooring as this is too rough on feet and will cause sore hocks. Poultry netting should also be avoided as it is often insecure. Avoid using treated wood, cedar, or painted wood as this can be toxic to rabbits. Intact rabbits should be kept in individual cages once they are over 4 months of age to prevent fighting and accidental breeding. Despite being used mainly as a show or meat rabbit, they do well with human interaction and can make excellent pets. This particular breed does well either in indoor or outdoor enclosures, as their coat is dense enough to handle cold temperatures (even with snow), so long as their outdoor enclosures are protected from the elements (sun, rain, snow). Outdoor enclosures should also be covered on three sides to protect rabbits from cold drafts in the winter, as well as provide ventilation and shade at the same time during the hotter months. Indoor enclosures should be made of wire, be large enough for them to stretch out in and have a plastic bottom. The bottom should be laid with good-quality bedding (some owners like using small amounts of horse bedding, which is perfectly acceptable), should be spot-cleaned every day and completely replaced every week.

Many pet rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box trained and are quite fastidious groomers, they can also be trained to wear a harness and leash. Be aware that rabbits love to chew so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture, books and baseboards may be nibbled. They can be contained in an exercise pen to prevent damage to your house. Now we have covered House rabbits in depth on a previous episode, but as a few pointers: Unlike other pets such as dogs and cats, rabbits are a little bit tricker to litter train. With lots of time, patience and rewards, rabbits can be potty trained but it takes much longer than other pets. Instead of using just one litter box, try to spread a couple around the house so they won’t be tempted to do it in a corner because they cannot hold it in. When rabbit parents find that their bunny tends to do their business where they are not supposed to (such as their favourite corner in the living room), they put a litter box in that particular area and sometimes, that is enough to make the rabbit understand that this is where they need to do the deed. Like most rabbits, your Californian should be given a couple of toys to make sure they aren’t bored, as boredom can lead to the destruction of your personal property such as shoes, your room’s baseboard and basically anything else that they can sink their teeth into (much like puppies). Toys can include a few balls, a paper towel roll or anything that is bunny-safe purchased from your local pet store.

If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. It is preferred that the bottom wire of the cage be 1/2 x 1/2 - large enough for the bunny berries to go through, but small enough to keep their feet and nails from being caught in the wire. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding. The rabbits are wonderful pets, with a very nice easy-going temperament. They enjoy empty oatmeal boxes, a juice can (paper) with the ends cut off and stuffed with hay, a bell hanging from the top of their cage. You should also provide chewing material, such as untreated pieces of lumber or small twigs from trees. Health: The Californian rabbit does not have any particular disease of health issue, but it can develop sore hocks should they be kept in an enclosure with a wire bottom (which is not recommended for any rabbit, for that matter). Having said that, rabbits are susceptible to a few problems which differ from cats or dogs. Should you keep your rabbit mostly outdoors, for example, flystrike can happen, especially in hotter months. This occurs when flies lay their eggs in soiled parts of your rabbit’s fur (mostly near their bottoms) and once the eggs hatch, their main source of food is your rabbit while it still lives. This causes excruciating pain for your rabbit and can even be lethal – be sure to take your rabbit to your local vet to get them treated should you suspect this is happening. Also check your rabbit’s mouth every two weeks or so for overgrown teeth, as rabbit’s teeth never stop growing. Should their diet be low in hay, teeth can continue to grow into their faces and jaws, which can also be very painful. Thankfully, veterinarians can usually treat any infection due to overgrown teeth and can also shave those teeth down to a manageable length. Finally, every rabbit should also be periodically checked for ear mites, as it is a common problem especially among rabbits who are mostly kept outdoors.

The Californian Rabbit makes a great pet because of its mild temperament. Californian Rabbits do well with human interaction and also make excellent pets.

Temperament/Behavior

While mostly bred as meat or show animals, many love having the Californian as a pet rabbit because of their mild temperament. While they may seem shy and sometimes even quiet, with proper socialization (which means lots of time outside of their enclosure, interacting with their human families), their personalities will bloom and you will soon find out that your Californian loves to play and be active but also loves to sit back and cuddle when the time is right. This makes them great first-time pets for couples, singles, seniors or families with children of any age, so long as they are careful when holding or petting the rabbit. Always make younger children sit on the ground when they are petting rabbit (even ones as large as this one), as if they happen to fall or flip over, they won’t get as hurt since they are already near the ground. In the United States breeds are as widely raised, as easily recognized, or as all-around useful as the Californian. Each year hundreds, maybe thousands, of Californian trios take Grand Champion meat pen at fairs around the country. They are often finalists on the Best in Show table, and are widely raised for their meat and fur value both by large scale rabbitries and back yard breeders. You have to put your hands on a quality Californian to fully appreciate its smooth, solid build and fine coat. Californians weigh slightly less than New Zealands. Since both breeds are heavily utilized for the meat industry, commercial production breeders frequently cross-breed these two breeds to achieve hybrid vigor and a reduced time to market. The result of cross-breeding are offspring with points that are significantly lighter in coloration. If available, the Altex "terminal cross" can also be used. You can learn more about terminal crosses of Altex Rabbits on our episode that covers this specific breed. Californians should be judged “from the hind end forward.” The hindquarters pack the most meat, so it carries more points in the Standard than the midsection or shoulders. The body type should be as deep and full as possible. Looking at the rabbit from the side, you should see no dips in the smooth curve of the topline rising behind the ears and arching down to the tail. Your hands should not catch on the hips or feel any pinbones when you rub a Cal from front to back. The fur is to be a flyback that conforms to the ARBA commercial fur standard. Californians should be pure white with dark markings called smut on the “points” – nose, ears, feet, and tail. The eyes are ruby red. Color on the “usable portion of the pelt” is a disqualification, because furriers preferred an all-white pelt. Color of the points is to be “as near black as possible” – but black is not the only showable point color! Most people don’t realize this, but blue and chocolate pointed Californians do appear in litters and can be shown, but are faulted for point color other than black. Now Id did find a club dedicated to the Califonian: Purpose of the CRSC The purpose of the Club shall be to promote and improve the breeding of Californian rabbits; to encourage the exhibition of the Californian; to advance and protect the interests of the public as well as those of the breeders by the dissemination of authentic and reliable information concerning their value for food, fur and show; and to cooperate with other organizations in the promotion of Californian rabbit breeding in general.

Our breeders have become more skillful over the years. As a result the competition has attained a very high level. The Californian rabbit has won Best in Show at ARBA Convention four times. Mark and Clyde Henry of Michigan in 1975, Brian Rice of Indiana in 1981, Trudy Hannon of California in 1982 and J.R. Wilson of South Carolina in 1988. Will you be the next to "WIN!" this honor?

During the 1981-82 show season the sweepstakes contest winners posted over 24,000 points. The runner up during this time period totaled over 20,000 sweepstakes points, third place had over 17,000. This was a sensational occurrence and has not been accomplished since that time.

The Californian Rabbit Specialty Club formally recognized it's youth members before any other Specialty Club. Our youth members have enjoyed the same privileges as the adults since 1958. A youth sweepstakes contest is held annually (starting July 1st - June 30th) each year with excellent competition by our youth members.

Californians are an excellent rabbit breed. They produce large litters of 8-12 kits. Californians are a breed developed for show and meat purposes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himalayan_rabbit http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/californian-rabbit/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/californian-rabbits http://www.raising-rabbits.com/californian-rabbits.html http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/californian-rabbit-breed-information/

Plant of the week: Laburnum Word of the week: Kidney

How The Rabbit Killed The Lion A Tibetan Folk Tale "To your foe do not give a promise, for he carries a sword.(Tibetan Proverb.)" Illustration For The Tibetan Folk Tale How The Rabbit Killed The Lion

A long, long time ago, before the mountains were melted, and the trees were burned, and the animals all died, the sun was so hot that the mountains all ran down level with the plains. Then the king of beasts on the earth was the lion, and every morning all the animals had to come and kotow to him. One day there was a rabbit in a nice soft bed of grass, feeling so comfortable that he didn't want to go and kotow to the king. He didn't see any use of it, didn't know exactly where the lion was, and he was having too good a time anyway. All of a sudden the king stood before him looking like a thunder cloud. He spoke and said, "You little split-nosed rascal, here you are having a nice time eating grass, and have not come to kotow to me. All the other animals have made obeisance this morning. You do not value your life at all, do you?"

The rabbit thought, "If I don't tell this lion a lot of big lies, he will surely kill me, so I must tell them to save myself." Very politely, he said, "This morning when I got up to go to make my obeisance to you, I came to a stream of water, and in it was a big she-devil and I was afraid, and ran up here a few minutes ago to hide in this grass."

The lion asked, "Did that devil harm you?"

"No," answered the rabbit, "she didn't hurt me, she only yelled as I went by and my heart seemed as if it would break into two pieces, and that was enough for me. She asked, 'You little short-footed fellow, where are you going so fast?' I answered, 'I'm going to make my obeisance to the king of beasts.' Then she said, 'Well, we are going to see about that, son, and find out who is greater, he or I. I've hunted every place for this lion and can't find him, so when you go to kotow to him, you tell him for me, that I want him to come here where I am in this water, and we will see who is to be the ruler of the beasts.' So if you have anything to say to her I'll go take the message, as it would not do for you to go down there."

The lion answered, "I haven't anything to tell you, but I have something to say to that devil, and I'll go down and say it myself. There isn't anything on earth or any devil that can be bigger or think themselves bigger than I am, or more able to rule the beasts, for I'm the biggest there is. If she whips me, I'll be the same as a dog and let her rule."

The rabbit thought, "I'm in for it now, I'll lead him down and let him see for himself." He led him to the stream, and when the lion saw his reflection his hair all bristled up and his tail lashed from side to side. The rabbit, dancing up and down, yelled, "There she is, there she is." Whereupon the lion flew into a great rage, jumped into the water to fight and drowned himself.

http://whisperingbooks.com/Show_Page/?book=Tibetan_Folk_Tales&story=How_Rabbit_Killed_Lion

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