Tehran Threat Streams in the Gulf. BarbaraL Leaf @WashInstitute Malcolm Hoenlein @Conf_of_pres


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e an hour beforedaybreak, and the track, which winds along theedge of the marsh in order to keep on the hard sandjust between the desert and the water, cannotexceed fifty miles at the outside. Yet, when thesun set, we still had two hours of painful floggingthrough the darkness, guided by the rings of flameround the great domes of Hussein and Abbas, untilwe came on a labyrinth of canals and date-gardensand an enormous graveyard with dim lights amongthe habitations of the dead, and we knew that wewere close to the Sacred City. Passing througha tumble-down gateway in a ruined wall we foundourselves in wide busy streets, where I recognisedso many Indian faces in the little shops which werestill open that one might have fancied oneself in theoutskirts of Bombay or Delhi. In one direction washeard the wild music of a Turkish military bandj inanother the chant of a belated pilgrim caravan wasdistinct above the uproar of the bazaar, while in o w > CO03> *PIJO 03 wr>

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THE SACRED CITIES OF THE SHIAHS 213 front of us loomed the lights of a big market-placewhere the babble of voices and the thronged benchesof the coffee shops, the Eastern counterpart of theFrench cafes, with their seats out on the publicstreet, showed clearly that the Kerbela season wasin full swing. The arabana pulled up in front of a hostelry witha wonderful picture of a waggonette and horses overthe door. Here I found a kavass from the BritishAgency awaiting me, and in five more minutes Iwas in a pleasant apartment of the house of theIndia Nawab who looks after the British Indiansubjects in the city of Hussein. Next morningI found most of. the distinguished people of theplace had come to call on me, including the TurkishGovernor, the judge, and the head Mullah. I wouldhave given anything for a good interpreter in orderto converse with all these interesting people, whospoke no European language. As it was I hadto get along as best as I could with my Christianservant, whose English w



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Tehran Threat Streams in the Gulf. BarbaraL Leaf @WashInstitute Malcolm Hoenlein @Confofpres

Barbara A. Leaf, the U.S. ambassador to the United Arab Emirates from 2014-2018, is a Senior Fellow at The Washington Institute. During her diplomatic career, Ambassador Leaf served in high-level positions at Foggy Bottom and abroad. Before arriving in Abu Dhabi in 2014, she served as deputy assistant secretary of state for the Arabian Peninsula in the Bureau of Near Eastern Affairs and as deputy assistant secretary of state for Iraq; directed the U.S. Provincial Reconstruction Team in Basrah, Iraq; and served as the department’s first director of the Office of Iranian Affairs.

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