Episode 71 – Shellac Boogers, Festool TS 55 and MFT vs the Kreg Adaptive Cutting System, Table Construction, & MUCH More!

Woodshop Life Podcast

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Sean

1) Great show guys. Been listening a while and I've heard them all. Thanks for sharing your experience. Hoping you can give me some ideas for potential workaround. I recently made a mitered box out of a nice piece of cherry, with continuous grain running around the sides. I rabbeted the inside edges of the top and the bottom and used those rabbets to seat in some 1/4 in. baltic birch plywood veneered with bubinga and wenge. I'm a relatively new woodworker but I think they turned out pretty nice. After the glue dried I noticed that I had slightly undersized one of the rebated panels on two of the ends. Maybe somewhere between a 32nd and a 64th. As this is on the outward face of the box, what are the alternatives for closing this gap? The rest of the box looks pretty nice, and I'm afraid to goof it up with a sloppy patch job. Any suggestions? Thanks again guys for the great work! - John

2)So I've been trying my hand at shellac, with mixed results. I've put a coat on some soft maple sanded to 220. I decided I didn't like it so I wanted to sand it off. After waiting several hours, while it looks dry and feels dry to the touch, when I sand it, it is clogging my sandpaper. I then tried waiting over night. Same results. Is this normal? Some details: it is a 2# cut of amber shellac flakes, freshly mixed with denatured alcohol, applied with a blue shop towel. Temps were in the low 60's to high 50's with humidity ~40-50%. Shellac flakes don't get old do they? Is it possible that the denatured alcohol doesn't have a high enough % of booze in it? I did buy it @ the big box store. -Mark

Huy

1) How would you get rid of bandsaw marks from thin shop made veneers, that are less that an eighth of an inch thick, but still come out with a consistent thickness. I don't have a drum sander, yet. Was thinking of a sled with the veneer stuck down with double sided tape in the planer. Just afraid it will explode under the planer knives. I've tried a hand plane, to no avail. I have an old Inca, Jointer/Planer with a Tersa head. Any help would be very cool.

ps..Love the Podcast - Ken

2) Hey guys. I’m looking into buying a track saw along with corresponding work table. More specifically, the . I’m hoping you all could give some insight when comparing and contrasting these two and whether the Kreg system, while more budget friendly, sacrifices quality or is lacking in any way. Love the show and look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks, Phil.

Guy

1) I have many slabs of 8/4 maple that have been air drying for a couple of years after I milled them. I know how you feel about slabs, but don't worry, I plan to dimension these to 6/4 and 10" wide with the aim to build a dining room table of approximately 8ft long by 40" wide.

For legs, I'm thinking of the "panel" style that are situated about a quarter of the way in from each end. I'll use a cross beam between the two panel legs, but does the top panel require an apron or any additional underpinning or support structure?

Thanks for near 70 shows of insights. Glen

2)Hey guys - can you explain why tool companies produce / sell multiple tool brands? The latest I’ve noticed is the South Bend tool line that Grizzly is distributing - it looks very similar to the Grizzly line of tools but with a new paint job. I’m sure they’re not the only company with this practice. What gives? As a follow up, as someone only a few years into the hobby, which single brand would each of you select if you were starting a new shop (and I’m assuming Guy’s answer will be Powematic)? Thanks for the episodes - really enjoy them - Mike