Best Double J Media Podcasts (2024)

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#102 The Tension Crew — Ultimate Board Climbing Deep Dive, History of Boards, Best Board Practices, Training on Boards, The Future of Boards, and Undeniable Vibes 2:27:24

26m ago2:27:24

2:27:24

We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!! This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafo…

1
#101 Dave Burleson — How To Be A Pro Climber, What Pro’s Actually Earn, The Tension Between Passion And Professionalism, and Contract Negotiation 101 2:31:11

7d ago2:31:11

2:31:11

Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first! Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The…

1
#100 T&J — The Simple Path To Being Great, The Real Role Of Strength, Dealing With Tweaky Moves, Moonboard 2024, Amazing Media Drops, and Skin Farming 2:03:49

14d ago2:03:49

2:03:49

Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. They also go over the late…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Oil Slicks & Conference Finals! 36:21

15d ago36:21

36:21

Edmonton Oilers and Western Conference Finals thoughts!

1
#99 Nina Williams — Off Route While Free Soloing, The Ultimate Confidence, Being a Professional on Instagram, and The Medium Is The Message 1:49:54

21d ago1:49:54

1:49:54

Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing. In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and th…

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#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake 1:56:05

28d ago1:56:05

1:56:05

Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too. SHOW NOTES: Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $ Petzl Roc Trip James-Caro Wedding Present Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a …

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Avs and Av-Nots! Round 2, Game 1! 1:05:15

1M ago1:05:15

1:05:15

K-Fitz joins, and we discuss the upcoming Stars series against Colorado.

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Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast| An AVALANCHE Of Hopes & Dreams 1:05:49

1M ago1:05:49

1:05:49

Weldon and I recap Vegas/Dallas and discuss Round 2!

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#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure 2:12:55

1M ago2:12:55

2:12:55

Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world. Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraug…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Game Six Ready! 1:26:19

1M ago1:26:19

1:26:19

Do the Stars have what it takes to eliminate Vegas? Weldon and I discuss.

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Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Stars Even The Series?! 1:19:56

2M ago1:19:56

1:19:56

K-Fitz and I talk Stars/Golden Knights Game 5!

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | A Knight To Remember? 1:09:15

2M ago1:09:15

1:09:15

K-Fitz and I talk Stars/Golden Knights Game 4!

1
#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t 1:58:25

1M ago1:58:25

1:58:25

You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings! Tim and Josh tackle the problem of …

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | A Golden Playoff Nightmare 1:05:26

2M ago1:05:26

1:05:26

Talking playoffs with K-Fitz. Vegas, baby!

1
#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions 2:11:55

2M ago2:11:55

2:11:55

Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28! He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams i…

1
#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough 1:52:11

2M ago1:52:11

1:52:11

What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!! $5 Patron’s now have access t…

1
#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only ... 2:08:50

2M ago2:08:50

2:08:50

Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s impor…

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#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine 1:48:03

2M ago1:48:03

1:48:03

Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like. They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant. SHOW NOTES: GoFundme for Adriene Felipe Hoo Beastmaking Book Text the show! (ps -…

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#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World 2:23:30

3M ago2:23:30

2:23:30

That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb! Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well. Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb. Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com) Support the Sho…

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#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?! 1:40:23

3M ago1:40:23

1:40:23

The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury. SHOW NOTES: Team Trials Instagram Post by Ryan Paul Robinson on Hueco Rock Rodeo Nathaniel Flashing Scarface Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com) Support the Show. Support …

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#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors 2:30:21

3M ago2:30:21

2:30:21

Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old! Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired. The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus…

1
#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj 1:44:50

3M ago1:44:50

1:44:50

Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world.…

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#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+] 1:52:31

4M ago1:52:31

1:52:31

Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers a…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast| Bean Town and Big City Lights! 1:07:48

4M ago1:07:48

1:07:48

In this episode, Weldon joins to talk about upcoming Boston and New York Rangers games.

1
#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session 1:46:25

4M ago1:46:25

1:46:25

Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for. SHOW NOTES: 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson Text the show! (ps -- it won't let u…

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#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10 2:13:57

4M ago2:13:57

2:13:57

The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them. Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for cl…

1
#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024 2:02:44

4M ago2:02:44

2:02:44

2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Text th…

1
#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro 1:51:12

4M ago1:51:12

1:51:12

Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the har…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | HOCKEYTOWN! 1:07:06

5M ago1:07:06

1:07:06

In this episode, K-Fitz and I discuss the state of the Stars, the game against the New Jersey Devils, New York Islanders, Detroit Red Wings and more!

1
#82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’ 1:55:58

5M ago1:55:58

1:55:58

Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiec…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Behold the Kings….. 1:04:01

5M ago1:04:01

1:04:01

In this episode, K-Fitz and I discuss the state of the Stars, the game against the Los Angeles Kings and more!

1
#81 Carlo Traversi — The Dark Side V16 FA, Using Wet Chalk, Pushing Not Pulling, The Grade Debate, and What He Learned From Yosemite Testpiece’s 2:15:44

5M ago2:15:44

2:15:44

Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think. Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindb…

1
#80: T&J — Always Be Hungry, Good Sessions Only, Stop Lying, You Suck, Fueled by Failure, and Tim Joins A Normie Gym 1:39:48

5M ago1:39:48

1:39:48

Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: Mastery by Robert Greene Atomic Habits by James Clear Text the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com) Support the Show. Support us on Patr…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast| Blackhawks DOWN, Avalanche Up! 1:08:01

5M ago1:08:01

1:08:01

K-Fitz and I discuss Chicago, the well-being of Scott Wedgewood, and the upcoming Colorado game.

1
#79: West Coast Pimps — Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher, Sharma’s Mentor, The Origin’s of Try Hard, Early Days in Hueco and Bishop, and Lessons From Decades of High Level Bouldering 2:08:28

5M ago2:08:28

2:08:28

Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today. There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font wer…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Holiday Special 1:35:51

6M ago1:35:51

1:35:51

Weldon and K-Fitz join to talk Blues vs Stars and More!

1
#78: T&J — Baby Rattlesnakes, F*CK! Tim Got Injured, The Demonstration of Strength, Kids Vs Adults, and Boarding As A Minor 2:03:27

6M ago2:03:27

2:03:27

F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman, and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla. This leads into a discu…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Gift wrapping a win for the Dallas Stars fans? 1:35:53

6M ago1:35:53

1:35:53

In this episode, Weldon joins, and we discuss what the Dallas Stars will have to do to defeat Nashville. We also discusseverything related to hockey in between.

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | A Kraken Time VS Seattle 1:04:37

6M ago1:04:37

1:04:37

K-Fitz joins and we discuss tonight’s game against Seattle and more!

1
#77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards 1:52:18

6M ago1:52:18

1:52:18

Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit as well. Zach goes deep on this podcast about what it’s really like to compete at these high level comps. What the setting is …

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Roasted Red Wings and Canadian Senators! 1:23:07

6M ago1:23:07

1:23:07

In this episode, Weldon and I discussed the game against Detroit, the game, upcoming against Ottawa and a whole lot more.

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey PodcastBarbecue Red Wings and Fried Egos? 1:10:25

6M ago1:10:25

1:10:25

I-Fitz joins and we discuss the most recent Stars game, the future and MORE!

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#76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups 2:13:11

6M ago2:13:11

2:13:11

Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh talk about being the Conductor of your climbing, and how/when to employ two major mindsets during your sessions. SHOW NOTES: S…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Life’s A Beach Against Florida! 1:17:24

6M ago1:17:24

1:17:24

In this episode, Weldon joins and we discuss the two game stretch against Tampa, as well as the upcoming Florida Panthers

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#75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool 1:50:27

6M ago1:50:27

1:50:27

Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on le…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Dog fighting The Winnipeg Jets, Dousing The Flames 1:20:50

7M ago1:20:50

1:20:50

In this episode, Weldon and I discuss the most recent Stars game against Winnipeg, the upcoming Flames and Tampa Bay Lightning.

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Slumping Stars 1:03:04

7M ago1:03:04

1:03:04

In this show, K-Fitz discuss the most recent Stars game(s) and what must be done to get out of their slump.

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#74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE 2:23:43

7M ago2:23:43

2:23:43

Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive into the nuances of what makes a board great, and maybe more importantly, who that board is great for. SHOW NOTES: Spraywall vs…

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#73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV 2:07:58

7M ago2:07:58

2:07:58

“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squamish has, and adding their new ones to the list. And that’s special, because these boulders just don’t get done very often. No…

1
Lone Star Barnburner Hockey Podcast | Avalanche of sorrow against Colorado? 1:17:07

7M ago1:17:07

1:17:07

In this episode, Weldon and I discuss the Colorado game against the Stars, New York coming to town and a whole lot more!

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