))
Over the past 25 years, I’ve visited more than 30 countries, working as a researcher, teacher, trainer and consultant for international and government agencies. It’s given me a rare chance to experience a country as few tourists can, through the perspectives of my local colleagues. My essays on travel, history and culture have been published in newspapers, magazines and online media, and collected in three books: Postcards from Stanland: Journeys in Central Asia, Monsoon Postcards: Indian Oc ...
…
continue reading
Even for the Balkans, a region with more than its fair share of crazy national borders, it’s an oddity—a twelve-mile stretch of Bosnia on the Adriatic coast separating Croatia’s top tourist destination, Dubrovnik, from the rest of the country. As with most territorial issues in the Balkans, Bosnia’s short coastline is a quirk of history, the outcom…
…
continue reading
After the breakup of Yugoslavia, Bosnia was torn apart by ethnic conflict, a three-way war between Serbs (mostly Eastern Orthodox), Croats (Roman Catholic) and Muslim Bosniaks. It was not until the massacre of 8,000 Muslim men at Srebrenica and TV coverage of the siege of Sarajevo horrified the world that NATO stepped in, bombed Bosnian Serb positi…
…
continue reading
The long, skinny island of Pag on Croatia’s Adriatic coast, historically a center of the salt industry, is famous for its sheep’s milk cheese. Salt has been produced in the region for more than one thousand years, but the industry could be even older, dating from Roman times. The basic process of salt extraction has not changed much. Sea water is c…
…
continue reading
One of the legacies of Albania’s communist era are concrete bunkers. Around 175,000 were constructed all over the country. They range in size from small, shallow bunkers for a couple of soldiers to massive underground complexes with rooms, corridors and heating, electrical and water systems. Although the regime sometimes put out the line that the A…
…
continue reading
For half a century after World War II, Albania was ruled by a communist regime so paranoid that its leaders believed that even the Soviet Union and China had sold out to capitalism. Albania zealously guarded its borders to stop anyone from leaving the socialist paradise, and to closely control anyone crazy enough to want to visit. Among those who w…
…
continue reading
After Turkish investors backed out, the first international hotel in Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishkek officially became a “Joint Kyrgyz-Malaysian Venture.” Because English is widely spoken in Malaysia, you’d expect the new foreign partner to have tidied up the English grammar and spelling on the hotel’s printed materials. No way. The room service menu …
…
continue reading
As the train pulled out of Kazakhstan’s capital Astana, Valery opened the first bottle of cognac and was figuring out how much alcohol our compartment would need for the 15-hour overnight trip. It was only 4:30 p.m. and, with several hours of daylight left, I wanted to look out of the window, not drink. But to be sociable, I agreed to a couple of s…
…
continue reading
Before the Soviet era, there were no national borders between the peoples of Centra Asia, and identity was defined by religion, family, clan and place. The Soviets attempted to counter pan-Islamic and pan-Turkic tendencies by constructing nationalities, giving each a defined territory with national borders, along with a ready-made history, language…
…
continue reading
The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 gave us fourteen new countries (plus Russia) including the five “stans” of Central Asia—Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. We can be grateful the Soviet Union did not break up any further, or we would have to deal with Bashkortostan, Dagestan, and Tatarstan, all now Russian rep…
…
continue reading
1
From southern Kyrgyzstan to suburban Maryland
6:21
6:21
Play later
Play later
Lists
Like
Liked
6:21
On Christmas Eve 1995, my wife, Stephanie, picked me up at Washington’s Dulles airport. After almost a month in Central Asia, I looked forward to returning to the United States. Instead, I experienced, for the first time in my life, reverse culture shock. One of the blessings—but also one of the curses—of international air travel is that in the spa…
…
continue reading
When the Soviet Union broke up, its national airline Aeroflot suffered the same fate. The governments of cash-strapped new republics seized the aircraft sitting on the tarmac, repainted them in the new national colors and hoped they could round up enough spare parts to keep them flying. National airlines have since modernized their fleets, adding B…
…
continue reading
Provincial Soviet-era hotels reflect the ostentatious public architecture of the Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev eras. The impressive facades often conceal dark and drab interiors, with poor heating and ventilation, dangerous wiring, and leaky pipes. Even small cities boasted establishments with several hundred rooms. Of course, the number bore no …
…
continue reading
It was a classic Catch-22. I did not have a confirmed itinerary or a China transit visa. The Malaysian Airlines agent in Kuala Lumpur could have refused to rebook me, but he realized that the problem was not of my making. “Here’s your boarding card,” he said. “I’m just not sure what will happen in Shanghai.” The arrival of an itinerary-less, visa-l…
…
continue reading
Since the Mughal era, Barishal has been the commercial gateway to the southwest delta. It’s been whimsically described as the “Venice of Bengal.” although if you’re just counting waterways, almost any large town in southwestern Bangladesh is a Venice. At its commercial dock, brightly colored barges were drawn up on the muddy, litter-strewn beach, w…
…
continue reading
For a small country, Bangladesh has a lot of rivers, around 700 according to most estimates. Roughly 10 percent of its total area is water, a high proportion considering that it has no large lakes. In other words, most of that water is moving. For the rural population, the rivers are interwoven with every aspect of their lives. They sustain agricul…
…
continue reading
Even for those with good language skills, getting things done in Kyrgyzstan in the mid-1990s was a challenge. A seemingly straightforward task, such as banking or paying a utility bill, often turned out to be a complex, time-consuming activity that required visiting several offices, filling out forms and slips of paper, and obtaining signatures and…
…
continue reading
1
India-Bangladesh: The world's craziest border
8:52
8:52
Play later
Play later
Lists
Like
Liked
8:52
The 1947 partition of British India into Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan created artificial borders that are still hotly disputed today. In Bengal, the zigzagging border with East Pakistan (and from 1971, Bangladesh) was dotted with enclaves—little islands of one country surrounded by the territory of the other. In total, there we…
…
continue reading
I drive out to a Johannesburg suburb for a church dinner and barn dance and find myself deep in Afrikaner country. Descendants of the Boers who trekked north from the Cape from the 1830s settled on the High Veld, a plateau region of grassland and scrub bushes. More than 4,000 feet above sea level, it resembles the High Plains of Montana or Wyoming.…
…
continue reading
1
South Africa: The borders of Johannesburg
12:09
12:09
Play later
Play later
Lists
Like
Liked
12:09
It tells you something about how South Africa has changed that the sprawling townships of Soweto outside Johannesburg are now on the tourist bus routes. Soweto came to world attention in 1976, when police opened fire on 10,000 secondary school students marching to protest the policy of enforcing Afrikaans as the only language of instruction in scho…
…
continue reading
The main north-south highway from Malawi’s capital, Lilongwe, to Blantyre, the commercial capital, passes through a dry, flat landscape of scrub grass and small trees, broken by cultivated fields, with goats and cattle wandering close to the road and groups of men squatting under trees. The bus passed roadside stalls selling fruits, vegetables, hou…
…
continue reading
1
Malawi: Incredible miracles and supernatural breakthroughs
8:45
8:45
Play later
Play later
Lists
Like
Liked
8:45
According to the census, two out of three Malawians claim to be Christian. One in five is Catholic, with others scattered among the mainstream Protestant groups; Muslims make up about one quarter of the population. Christianity is mixed with traditional beliefs drawn from animism and witchcraft, and often has a revivalist fringe. In storefront chur…
…
continue reading
It is a paradox of history that South Africa’s apartheid regime, sanctioned and shunned by the international community, had a friend in Malawi. Its long-time authoritarian president, Hastings Banda, was politically conservative, suspicious and fearful of the socialist regimes of other countries in the region. Malawi was the only country in Africa t…
…
continue reading
As a history student, it was challenging enough to keep up with the shifting borders of European countries. When I opened the atlas and turned to other continents, the borders of some countries seemed to make no sense at all. Why were some strangely shaped, with portions of their territory protruding into other countries? Why were there straight li…
…
continue reading
A shakedown by cops at Almaty airport in Kazakhstan provides a glimpse of life in a post-Soviet society undergoing wrenching social and economic transition. And as travel writer Thomas Swick notes, travel only becomes interesting (and therefore worth writing about) when things go wrong.By davidhmould
…
continue reading
It was a proud day in 1965 when, at the age of 15, I was issued my first British passport. Looking back, the stern instruction in elaborate cursive not to mess with the Queen’s loyal subject seems like the pompous posturing of a country that had surrendered its empire but was not yet ready to accept its new, reduced role in the world. I’ve held a U…
…
continue reading
After a 12-hour delay on a return flight from Madagascar, I engage in a polite but frustrating battle with the Kenya Airways customer service staff at Nairobi International Airport.By davidhmould
…
continue reading
