You’ll find this route on the center column facing the lead wall and if you like surprise endings, you’ll dig this route. It has some real fun moves and some fun features. You’ll find a nice mix of pinches and buckets with just enough grit to make a nine. The route starts off with a … The post 5.9 | Salt Water Taffy appeared first on figure8.…

This route is in the back corner next to the auto-belay and it is a douse. It’s a blue route with some nice corner work in the middle but the top is all tiny holds. This route isn’t rated yet but we have a spoiler for you. This route starts like many in this corner … The post 5.8 | Main Sprinkler Valve appeared first on figure8.…

It has been too long. The last figure8 Podcast episode was published back in January 2017 so I thought a nice easy 5.7 route would be a good warm up for my day and for the Podcast. This orange route is on the center column near the bouldering wall and is a nice warm up … The post 5.7 | Liftchair Sunset appeared first on figure8.…

I have been climbing on the guest pass of a friend at Salt Pump for a while. We have a routine, we climb a few top rope routes, get pumped out and call it a day. I’m lead certified at evo Rock + Fitness but had never bothered to get lead certified elsewhere. Until today, … The post 5.6 | Steep Sheep appeared first on figure8.…

You may not have noticed but I haven’t been on a lead route in more than a year. I’ve also never captured a clean climb on a lead route, ever! The sadness ends today with this 5.8 route at evo Rock + Fitness in Portland, aptly named ‘Rub the Belly.’ Today marks a milestone in … The post 5.8 | Rub the Belly appeared first on figure8.…

This green route faces the benches on the center pillar and was a fun one with some nice features. This route has some nice features and even though its a 5.8 it is still a great climb with lots of nice angles. You’ll even notice the light heel hock around the feature for balance. There … The post 5.8 | Das Tufa appeared first on figure8.…

If you scroll down a few you’ll see that this route below but the previous climb was done on top rope. This time around I sent it on mock lead. In lead climbing you have the added difficulty of clipping your rope, managing a rope from below and not above, and the potential for more … The post 5.8 | Outside the Cones appeared first on figure8.…

The last time I climbed this route, I was winding down and wasn’t able to climb it clean. This time around, I made it clean, but also realized again at top out that I was not only on the wrong rope, but the rope was also twisted. This route is pretty fun and was a … The post 5.7 | Pirate Ships (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

This is the same route from below climbed a while ago but this time around I’m climbing for a lead test. When you take a lead test you usually have to perform a few basic parts. Demonstrating back clipping, z-clipping, are common requirements. Once you demonstrate some clipping knowledge, you’re asked to demonstrate lead climbing … The post 5.9 | G…

Here is another fun warm up because it seems like lately, warm ups are the only climbs I can finish. This is a straight route with one small catch. About half way up on the second feature bolted to the wall there is a real lousy under hang followed by a long but thin chip … The post 5.7 | Big Steppers (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

Okay, so I have to be honest, I may have cheated a bit here. You might not see it but let me explain. I’ve totally climbed this route clean before. I actually climbed it clean the first attempt. This time around was a different story. Some days I feel like a boss at the gym, … The post 5.8 | Outside the Cones (evo Portland) appeared first on figure…

This route is yellow but it was proving to be a white whale. I had tried and failed but this time was different. I am not a member at Salt Pump, I climb on the guest pass generously donated by Scott. The first few times on this route I wasn’t able to get past the … The post 5.9 | Arthur Page (Salt Pump) appeared first on figure8.…

Lately I’ve been pulling out footage from the vault of unedited clips. Well here is one from the present. This is a new route currently up at evo Portland on the auto belay near the bouldering area. It hasn’t been rated or named yet but it climbs like a 5.8. All of the routes on … The post 5.8 | Orange (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

The first time I got on this route, I nailed it. Fast forward a few days and you would think with some rest and a GoPro I would be aces. Not so fast Arthur. As you can see, I make it right to the edge and pump out. From the video it looks like I … The post 5.10a | Ducks (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

Still working through the backlog of unedited clips and I found this route. This is another clip from March of 2015 climbing at EVO with Brandon and crushing routes. I remember this one well, it was a pretty straight forward path right up. No real hard moves but the holds were all of the small … The post 5.9 | Foam (evo Portland) appeared first on …

Dug up another gem from the archive. This one is a 5.10 from March of 2015 at the newly minted evo ROCK + FITNESS in Portland, Maine. What a fun looking route that I nearly forgot about. This one has me pining for my glory days. I may have cheated on the start but it … The post 5.10 | ONE! (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

I just started climbing with a new friend that is a few inches shorter than me. This route was proving to be quite a jerk for her but my extra height gave me an advantage to reach up and grab a nice hold right after coming left foot over the edge on the triangle looking … The post 5.9 | Use Power! (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

Contrary to the name of the route. This route was totally for us. I’ve climbed it a few times but the great thing that I like about this route is that I almost always forget the ideal path and have to figure out the middle fresh. I think it keeps it interesting. Most other people … The post 5.8 | Not With Us (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8…

You may remember two videos made some time ago on the pier at Mackworth Island. Well I decided since I missed going last summer that I would get out this year. My excitement was hit head on with disappointment. Let me tell you why. The first time I decided to take on this fun project … The post 5.FUN | Arthur Page (43.2881, -70.2277) appeared first…

This is normally an easy warm-up route but it is a bit more work in the dark finding your feet. It was the first time I’ve been able to climb a wall in the dark. I was at Maine Rock Gym for one but was only bouldering back then. Then I was at EVO Concord for … The post 5.6 | Arthur Page (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

It has been more than a long time since I have been climbing and about as long since I posted a video. Here we go again, getting back into the swing of it with a friend from work. After some light bouldering we jumped on this nifty 5.8. straight forward but I am out of … The post 5.8 | Welcome (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

I was surprised to see the long gap in the podcast episodes so I’ve been digging around in the vault to bring out some unedited climbs. Here is a blast from the past, a clip featuring my former anchor Brandon. Here we are climbing what looks like a 5.8 pink route back in March ’15. The post 5.8 | Static (evo Portland) appeared first on figure8.…

On January 4, 2015 the Maine Rock Gym closed its doors for the last time. The gym has been open for twenty years and has grown to mean a lot of things to a lot of people. Before the gym closed for good, we had a chance to talk to some people climbing to get … The post Maine Rock Gym appeared first on figure8.…

This is kind of a cool part of MRG. There are two routes side by side that are just about mirror images of one another. They are both 5.6 grade and holds are about the same size and placement. This is the perfect stage for a race. Scott and I found a pair of climbers … The post 5.6 | Scott vs. Arthur on Mirror Mirror (MRG) appeared first on figure8…

This is the first attempt on a new route and what a fun one it was. It started out with a left lean on one of my least favorite holds. Its three small holds to the first solid jug. Pretty straight forward all the way to the last three moves. Those are three back to … The post 5.9 | Purple (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This unmarked route starts a bit tricky but it is smooth sailing all the way to the top after the first two holds. This was as much fun the first time around as it was the second. A great warm up if ever there was one. The post 5.8 | Routeless (MRG) appeared first on figure8.By Arthur

Here is a new take on a previously climbed favorite, same route, now we’re against the clock. Light fades on this playground of chunky granite jugs. Though not very technical, I’ve found it to be a good training tool and since there is never anyone there you don’t have to get off. The post V0 | The Pier Lapse appeared first on figure8.…

I was working on this problem at the same time as two other people but didn’t top out first. The problem is pretty straight forward up to the last two moves. You’ll see that in an early attempt I was left hand on the last move when I should have been right. I thought that … The post V3 | Orange (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

There is a new rock gym opening soon in Portland in Partnership with the Maine Rock Gym in Portland and evo ROCK + FITNESS of New Hampshire. The new building is up and Rock Werx is scheduled to be on site to start building the climbing walls. If you were at the ReelRock Screening of … The post evo ROCK + FITNESS appeared first on figure8.…

I met this pier for the first time about three weeks ago and instantly knew that I had to traverse it. All the holds are really chunky and there is plenty of room for foot work so you’ll have plenty of time to check out the view. This project could be as easy or as … The post V0 | The Pier appeared first on figure8.…

This route took a few shots to get it right. The hardest part is balancing your weight over in the corner while you finish crossing left hand over your right. After three attempts, I found the balance point without pumping out for the rest of the route. The post V3 | Red (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This route quickly became known as the jerk route. The name fits because it is right next to the white witch route with similar attributes and frustration. It probably took 20 attempts before I “nailed” this one down. The first five I spent getting above the yellow right hand blob. The remaining 15 on the … The post 5.9b | Purple (MRG) appeared fir…

Not sure what is up with all the purple routes lately but they’ve brought me some luck. Tonight I climbed my first ever V4. Since it is my first, I’m not sure how accurately it is rated. It did take more attempts on a few V2’s and V3’s in my past. I was very surprised … The post V4 | Purple (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

After nearly two weeks off climbing, it was time to get back on the wall. This is a new route on the bouldering pillar. It snakes from one side around the middle to the other side near the storage items. Have a gander The post V1 | Purple (MRG) appeared first on figure8.By Arthur

The more I climb outside the more respect I have for outside climbers. It is way harder than it looks and it is a lot harder than climbing in a gym where you can easily spot all your placements. This route, Cafe Au Lait, was our second route of the day after Gloria Jean’s. It … The post 5.7 | Cafe Au Lait (Rumney) appeared first on figure8.…

Even though this route is likely over rated, I’m still calling it my best ever for the time being. The hardest part of this is in the middle where you feel like you’re standing on the ledge of a building with your only hand holds being a full wing span apart. Tricky move followed by … The post 5.11b | Black (MGR) appeared first on figure8.…

Noah, Brandon, and I all raced to Fort Williams from work and made it in before they close at sunset. This was the maiden voyage of our new Camp Tricam Evo cams that we had to wait a week to use. We set up our top rope anchor with just enough time to each get … The post 5.8 | Mickey Mouse (FWL) appeared first on figure8.…

Nailed this one first try out of the gate after a boulder reset. The black routes in this corner are always tricky balance problems. This one starts with a hard left lean but once you get your center of gravity up and over the center, it is pretty straight forward. The post V2 | Black (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This 5.10 is my most difficult climb to date. I practiced the beginning a few times but was never able to get my right hand on the small yellow to time out the rest correctly. The result is a wacky hang change above the transition. I was surprised I made that honestly. The post 5.10c | Green (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This is Arthur Page coming to you live from One City Center in Portland Maine for the Ripple Effect rappelling event! Ripple Effect raises money for youth empowerment through outdoor adventure through rappelling events. The way it works, you raise a bunch of money for them ($1k) and they drop you off the side of … The post Chris Lavoie | Over the E…

I just had a really great night at the gym. If you’ve seen some of the earlier posts, you know that I’ve struggled with the current MRG bouldering set. V1’s and V2’s have been difficult where in the past, I would use them to warm up. Well, I’m back in business because in one night … The post V3 | Green (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

You may have noticed a few videos starring Brandon. Well for weeks now, we’ve had a nickname for this white route. This is a clean show, but lets just say it is five letters and rhymes with ‘the twitch’. Time after time we both tried it and both failed. Usually in the same spot. Last … The post 5.9d | White (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This route was taunting me. There were two dudes watching me try this and watching me fail this route. I caught two fails on camera and about six off camera. After two weeks I called off the search. Today I felt like it deserved one more shot and with a small change of hand placement … The post V3 | Teal (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

There was no script, no production value and no where to go but up! In this episode, I question my wife about her experience starting out at our local rock gym. Then we contrast that to my chicken attack on Bubble Rock at Acadia National Park. Hang on tight folks, this just got real! The post 001 | RockTalk (Audio) appeared first on figure8.…

This route is a tough one in the back corner that requires a lot of wall play and lateral movement at the bottom. Once you get up to the transition, it’s a quick grab of a few small chips and then you’re at a solid top hold. For about a week,I was 50/50 changes for … The post 5.9c | Arthur Page (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

This was a bit of a technically tricky clip. I succeeded on the fourth attempt but the beginning part of the video was corrupted so I had to borrow footage of the first three holds from a before failed attempt. You should notice a different belayer at the end from the beginning (Thank you Scott … The post 5.9d | Arthur Page appeared first on figure…

I tried several times to get this one but kept falling off. The hand holds are very directional but in the wrong direction to where you need them to be. That is why this is a V3 I guess. Well I finally stuck it after some changes to my balance in the beginning. That gave … The post V3 | Crossover (MRG) appeared first on figure8.…

I’ve only ever climbed inside at a gym and always wanted to take it to the next level. I had been to Fort Williams before and noted the rock cliffs against the water. Brandon and I decided it was high time to scout a route. We found more than I expected, a really fun arch … The post V1 | The Chameleon (FWL) appeared first on figure8.…