Melissa Rainer public
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Melissa Rainer, mother of three girls, takes you on her journey from Instamom to becoming the legal mother of her two stepdaughters. The stories are all true. Nothing is held back. Everything is on the table. Melissa shares the difficulties she had with her own parents growing up and how those play into her own parenting skills (or lack thereof). She’ll take you through her battle against outsiders’ perspectives on parenting children that "aren't yours," which can come from just about anywhe ...
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Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist’s bag of tricks 🪄, but the technical and impossibly steep style we know these days only started to come into its own in the ‘90s. The period has been referred to as the Modern M-Revolution — a period when grades advanced rapidly, from about M8 to M13 📈 — and lasted roughly from the mid-90s to the early…
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Whether you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer’s case, it does seem to bear out. During Angelika’s 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit …
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What are those funny folks in tights doing on the YouTubez, kicking into the whozimiwuchits and spitting off those metal thingamajigs? If you, like me, have ever had questions about Ice Climbing World Cups, this is your episode of Ice Ice Beta… because today we chat with, Rob Adie, the man responsible for organizing the UIAA World Cup Tour. He’s so…
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Kevin Lindlau is one of the rare birds in drytooling who excels at both comp *and* outdoor climbing. In January, Kevin completed the second ascent of “Aletheia”, rated D16 ✅, becoming only the second person in the world to climb the grade. (There’s some nuance here since other routes have been proposed at D16, but this is the first route that has b…
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It’s a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he’s built a career on that foundation. You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He’s spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine …
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What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection? I’m betting you didn’t expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing. But that’s Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his i…
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It’s rare to find American-made climbing companies. The shortlist includes the likes of Metolius, Organic, Misty Mountain, UnParallel, and a handful of rope producers. It’s even rarer to find technical apparel made in the U.S., which makes NW Alpine so distinct. And by technical, I mean purpose-built clothing designed for the elements, not adventur…
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Today on Ice Ice Beta, we’re chatting with Melissa Orzechowski of The Adirondack Queer Ice Fest 🌈 a no-cost ice climbing festival solely dedicated to the LGBTQ+ outdoor community. When the idea first came about, the organizers, Melissa, Robbi, and Nol, thought they might be the only attendees — something for just the three of them. They didn’t know…
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This is the first of a new series — the Community Spotlight — which is a way to celebrate everyday folks who are helping to grow the sports of ice climbing and drytooling. You may have seen Jon Blackwood’s shipping container project on Instagram (which he is working on with Johnny Korthuis), if you’re curious like I was this chat is about what he’s…
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We’re headed across the pond on this episode of Ice Ice Beta. Today, we’re chatting with Willis Morris and Oz Miller of the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club. The club has been called the developmental model of the future, a rolling circus, and bonkers by various authorities. But what is the organization, how does it work, and why has it been so successful…
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What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire? That’s the subject of today’s chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.) Surprisingly, Jon’s only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter F…
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I’ve been dry-tooling more than ice climbing this winter, largely because it’s been frustratingly warm in New England. Call this my adaptation strategy — but really, I feel like I’m just getting ahead of the curve since trigger alert: dry-tooling is the future of ice climbing. #provemewrong(please) Not to be all dire, dour and doom and gloom, but g…
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Kendra Stritch made history by becoming the first American to win a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup medal in December of 2014 — when she took gold on the speed wall in Bozeman, Montana. Since then, Kendra has been a major force in developing dry-tooling and competitive ice climbing in the U.S.: She helped to formalize USA Ice Climbing under the auspice…
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Life doesn’t follow a clean and cut narrative arc — unlike the stories we tell. Sure, it might all start and end the same way for folks, but it’s the complex, messy middle that makes us, us. One of our tendencies with storytelling is to simplify, which means skimming over a lot of the details. But when we do that we might find the narrative doesn’t…
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In today’s episode with Tom Beirne, we talk about the psychology of performance and the ethics of developing a new dry-tooling crag. Tom doesn’t love labels — and definitely don’t call him the dry-tooling guy — but to help paint a picture he’s a mixed climber from Seattle who especially enjoys questing, runs The Barn, a dry-tooling gym, helped to d…
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It takes a village to raise an ice festival, and for Liz Sahagún and her co-organizers, it’s all hands on deck for the All In Ice Fest — which will take place from January 5th to the 7th of 2024. Entering their third year, the mission of the fest is to create a space where folks from historically marginalized communities can simply have fun ice cli…
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What goes into making an ice axe? Of course there is technical know-how, design, and testing, but for Marty Theriault, it was more like an act of therapy. And a way to connect with friends. Marty started Forecast Equipment after he was medically released from the Canadian military for PTSD. He’d been percolating on the idea of a new tool and finall…
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Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Kyle Siegel, the Founder of Raide, which makes gear that supports efficient human-powered movement in the mountains. Their first major drop is the LF 40L which may be the…
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Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Benjamin Leibham, the Founder of Alto Gear, which make ice climbing accessories out of upcycled and recycled material. You’ve probably seen Ben’s ice screw wrap at an ice…
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Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Ben Carlson and Nick Hernandez, Co-Owners of Furnace Industries, which make gym-safe training equipment for ice climbing and dry-tooling. Quite simply, you’d be hard-pres…
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Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Deed Ziegler, Founder of RecPak. I’m excited for these because I think ice climbers will really like them – RecPaks are 700 calorie, ultralight and ultra-packable meal re…
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Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙 Today we chat with Doug Heinrich, the Founder of Aniiu, which make technical ice climbing gloves. Doug is a longtime Salt Lake City climber, route developer, and alpinist, among many super…
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Sometimes opportunities arise which push you outside your comfort zone. For Kelsey Rex, an out of the blue invitation turned a next year trip to Alaska into "we're leaving in two months". That accelerated timeline required a Matrix-like download of expedition planning and put Kelsey in her sweet spot as a lover of meticulous spreadsheets. It also m…
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Cogne is known as one of the ice epicenters in Europe. Located near the base of the Gran Paradiso, the only 4,000 meter peak in Italy, the Cogne Valley boasts over 400 ice climbs and many more mixed and dry-tooling lines. Consistency and accessibility are the name of the game: The microclimate and terrain means ice is reliable year-in-year-out and …
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Stas Beskin is known for soloing big bold climbs, such as Rainbow Serpent and Fearful Symmetry, two of the most iconic WI6s in the Canadian Rockies. It's one thing to solo big flows, it's another to do it on freestanding pillars about as wide as your shoulders. But he does that too. And he does so without swinging his tools. Stas' conception of ice…
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This week we chat with Ryan McCauley, a member of the USA Ice Climbing Team. Ryan has had a rapid rise, fitting for her speciality in speed. In fact, within two years of starting to dry-tool, Ryan went from falling off the second hold of rec team tryouts to finishing 6th overall in Women's Speed Climbing during last year's World Cups. According to …
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Today we're talking about the Beartooth Mountains in Montana, which have a history of minimal spray when it comes to ice climbing. So of course that's what we are going to do... Let's start with why should you go: One, if you're looking for first ascents or a first ascent-like day out, the Beartooths provide. Two, it's the largest uninterrupted lan…
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Today is about all things training for dry-tooling with Eli Ellis. Eli is a dry-tooler, coach, and professional slackliner who specializes in highlinemo, a discipline that combines slacklining at high altitudes and mountaineering. For those familiar with the conjunction "skimo", you'll see where "highlinemo" comes from. To establish ever higher lin…
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Marianne van der Steen is one of the top female ice and mixed climbers, and competition dry-toolers in the world today. She’s climbed WI7, M10 trad, and recently joined the D15 club, the third woman to climb the grade, alongside Angelika Rainer and Haruko Takeuchi. While she’s won many European Cups in ice climbing and reached the World Cup finals …
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In this episode with Patrick Cooke, we talk about progressing in ice climbing with longevity in mind, mental tricks and training, and balancing mentorship with figuring things out for yourself. Patrick is based in the Northeast and has been climbing for nearly 20 years. During that time he has ticked hard classics all over New England, the Canadian…
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TW: Hospice/Death This episode covers quite a bit about the first 8 months of our relationship and the personal struggles I went through. I recommend a box of tissues if you have ever faced the loss of a parent/stepparent and if you've struggled with being 'wanted' by your stepkids. To say that I was completely devastated by the year 2015, it would…
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As stepparents, we long for a "normal" family experience. When I adopted my girls, I really expected for our family dynamic to change into a normal family. I was quite surprised when this year, everything hit the fan and our "normal" is chaos. Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe, Rate & Review this podcast or better yet, B…
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This episode continues my discussion with Diana Topping as she works to blend her family. Her son was raised by a single father & she was a single mother. We pick up at how she knew the blending was actually working. She finishes up this episode by explaining why it is so important for parents to have "life people" - those important people that are…
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Diana Topping openly and honestly shares her raw experience of becoming a primary stepparent after being a single biological mom, with a great coparenting relationship with her daughter's father & stepmom. To say that she wasn't ready for what she'd learn while becoming a stepparent to her stepson, is a complete understatement. This is part one of …
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This episode is covering current struggles that I am having with my oldest daughter, Kylie. We are still working towards our "new" relationship that the adoption brought us to. We both have difficulties sharing our perspectives and that often leads to disagreements that get blown out of proportion. Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends…
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This episode is all about navigating the hard conversations with your kids. When do you tell them the truth about the divorce, adoption & sex? What information is too much & when is it not enough? These are actual conversations that I've had with my children about the divorce and subsequent adoptions. Do you like what you hear? Share with your frie…
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Trigger Warning: Suicide/Suicidal Ideation/Suicide Plans/Sexual Child Abuse This episode is extremely raw. It's uncut (to a certain extent) and has been recorded at least 10 times at this point. I honestly don't even know what to put here other than, if you're struggling with mental health, please call the US Suicide Hotline at 800-273-8255. Do not…
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Today's episode is all about Rebekah Gregory & Rebekah's Angel's Foundation. Rebekah Gregory is one of my best friends and a Boston Marathon Bombing Survivor. She founded Rebekah's Angel's Foundation to fund mental health treatment after struggling to find help for her son, Noah, who survived the bombing due to Rebekah's body protecting him. Rebeka…
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I am so excited to share my husband with you all! We had fun recording this, but only after quite the disagreement. Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe & Rate this podcast or better yet, Buy Me A Coffee: buymeacoffee.com/instamompod Instagram: @instamompod Email me: instamompod@gmail.com…
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This episode covers us buying a new house, after outgrowing the 'premarital' house. I moved into the house Josh owned with his ex-wife (the girl's bio mom) and that comes with a lot of baggage in itself, but when she mentioned Emmy's bedroom in the contempt interrogatories... it was quite surprising. Do you like what you hear? Share with your frien…
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This episode is about the contempt case, from my perspective as the stepmom! Many times, we go through court battles, listening, wanting to speak but we are often ignored because we aren't legally parents. We all know, you do not have to be blood to be a parent, nor do you have to be a legal parent to be a parent. Do you like what you hear? Share w…
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This episode is about when we took the girl's bio mom to court in 2017 for contempt. She disparaged Josh to the girls while she was angry, that he wasn't doing what she wanted him to do. Have you ever been in this situation? Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe & Rate this podcast or better yet, Buy Me A Coffee: buymeacoffe…
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This episode is dedicated to Emmy, my middle child. She taught me how to be a mom, has loved me even when I've made mistakes (and I've made big ones) and just overall has shown me how to be a better person. I gave her the biggest gift that I could give her this year, by adopting her. Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe & R…
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This episode was by far my hardest to record. I had to record this quite a few times. I'm taking you back to when I was on maternity leave, headed back to work & how a physician missed diagnosing me with anxiety. I could have gotten the help I needed in 2017. This is such an important, raw and vulnerable episode. I hope you connect with it & please…
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This episode is very raw. Parental Alienation, abandonment & change in children. It prevents them from talking to people, trying new things & knowing how to trust. LEAVE THE KIDS ALONE. Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe & Rate this podcast or better yet, Buy Me A Coffee: buymeacoffee.com/instamompod Instagram: @instamomp…
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It is so important to put your marriage first in blended families. If you're not booking vacations, here I am to tell you to BOOK IT! Do you like what you hear? Share with your friends! Subscribe & Rate this podcast or better yet, Buy Me A Coffee: buymeacoffee.com/instamompod Instagram: @instamompod Join our Facebook Group by becoming a member: buy…
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Marriage is fun & easy, right? What about second or third marriages? This episode is all about expectations in marriage. We all bring in baggage and it really matters how you manage it, in order to succeed in a blended family/marriage situation. Instagram: @instamompod Join our Facebook Group by becoming a member: buymeacoffee.com/instamompod Email…
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This episode is all about traditions! I always wanted to have traditions with my family when I grew up but I never thought I'd walk into a ready-made family. Have you created any traditions with your blended family? Instagram: @instamompod Join our Facebook Group by becoming a member: buymeacoffee.com/instamompod Email me: instamompod@gmail.com…
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