67 | Seven Years of Silence Part I w/ Myles Moser

The Climbing Majority

In today’s world, where social media, technology, and commercialism are at the forefront of our minds, the reasons why we climb can sometimes get a bit confusing. Professional climbers often need an “audience” for brands to market their products to, and climbers everywhere, myself included, share videos and photos of our recent ascents. It makes you wonder… why do we climb? Is it truly for personal satisfaction, or are we chasing clout and recognition for our achievements?

For Myles, this era of “clout chasing” and immediately posting about our climbing is completely against his ethos. He climbs for himself, for his personal exploration as both a climber and a creator. Over the last seven years Myles has even turned down pro contracts in order to dedicate his life to his personal goals of putting up countless dangerous, massive alpine multi-pitch first ascents in the Whitney Portal area and in Patagonia. Most of these routes have never been repeated,and never shared with anyone. For some of them this is the first time the world is hearing about them.. The seriousness and complexity of these routes can’t be overstated—one even got him nominated for the Piolets d'Or, one of the most prestigious international mountaineering awards. Myles has built a successful contracting business, allowing him to self-fund his objectives and first ascents. He doesn’t feel pressure from brands or the need to monetize his climbing in any way and instead relies on his own skills, his partners, and a lot of luck to pull off these truly inspiring and bold new routes.

Today, we’re opening up Myles’ black book of climbing topos and breaking his seven years of silence. We get to discuss what he’s been up to, the routes he’s developed, and the incredible stories from these years of establishing some of the gnarliest routes the climbing world has seen. Myles also shares a refreshing narrative that reminds us to reflect on the reasons why we climb, how we choose our routes, and how much danger we put ourselves in. Are we climbing for ourselves or for recognition from others?

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Chapters

1. Introduction (00:00:00)

2. Injuries & Resilience (00:02:36)

3. Early Climbing Adventures (00:07:51)

4. Establishing Major Routes in Lone Pine (00:27:05)