Pastry Nation: Hype Bakeries on the Rise

The Food Programme

Leyla Kazim and Robbie Armstrong explore the rise of a new wave of British bakeries, whose viral viennoiseries are leading to snaking queues and sell outs, feeding an insatiable appetite across the country, fuelled by social media.

Author of ‘Britain’s Best Bakeries’, Milly Kenny-Ryder, takes Leyla to London’s TOAD bakery, whose long lines have become a rite of passage for pastry lovers. Owners Rebecca Spaven and Oliver Costello explain how their local bakery accidentally became a hyped internet phenomenon.

Leyla visits a London branch of Philippe Conticini to try one of their XXL croissants, which have set the internet ablaze thanks to a small army of influencers and their viral videos. Meanwhile, Anna Higham, founder of Quince Bakery, explains to Leyla why she has swerved pastries altogether, instead championing traditional British baking with seasonality and sustainability at its core.

Lewis Bassett from the Full English podcast breaks down the appeal of the UK’s most popular bakery chain, Greggs – which has 2,500 outlets across the country. Lewis and Leyla discuss class, viral sausage rolls and our centuries-old love affair with pastries and pies.

In Edinburgh, Robbie Armstrong visits Lannan to meet Darcie Maher, whose intricate inventions have created unparalleled demand, but also led to abuse of staff from angry customers. Robbie then travels to Fife to visit a fifth-generation family bakery whose fudge doughnuts have become internationally famous. In Dundee, meanwhile, he finds a city with a profusion of independent traditional bakeries, including one selling pies 24 hours a day.

Sam White of the Bakery Business magazine provides a rundown on trends in the baking industry, while Angela Hui gives her take on the clamour for vividly-colourful Asian baking.

Presented by Leyla Kazim. Produced by Robbie Armstrong.