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FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks

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Manage episode 421153878 series 3545012
Content provided by Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://player.fm/legal.

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)

The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering

CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools

The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill

Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro
(03:06) Finding the Best Beta
(09:12) Strength vs. Movement
(09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks
(11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks
(18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks
(22:07) How to Know You’re Improving
(27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement
(28:58) How to Know What to Work On
(31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm
(36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves
(41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip
(43:46) False Start Hover Drill
(48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing
(51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards
(55:11) Outro

  continue reading

353 episodes

Artwork
iconShare
 
Manage episode 421153878 series 3545012
Content provided by Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://player.fm/legal.

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)

The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering

CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools

The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill

Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro
(03:06) Finding the Best Beta
(09:12) Strength vs. Movement
(09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks
(11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks
(18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks
(22:07) How to Know You’re Improving
(27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement
(28:58) How to Know What to Work On
(31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm
(36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves
(41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip
(43:46) False Start Hover Drill
(48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing
(51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards
(55:11) Outro

  continue reading

353 episodes

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