Best Ryan Devlin Podcasts (2024)

1
#296 James Barraclough - How to Identify and Develop Psychosocial Skills and Characteristics 50:49

8h ago50:49

50:49

I’m delighted to speak with UEFA football coach and lecturer, James Barraclough this week. James has worked as a football coach for over 20 years. He has coached extensively in academies and holds both the UEFA B and FA Advanced Youth Awards. James has an MSc in Sport Psychology and has consulted with athletes and teams from grassroots up to world …

1
Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories 36:53

2d ago36:53

36:53

In this Pro Clinic, Tom Herbert covers: How to "stack" carbs and protein around a workout Getting a head start on recovery after a hard sesh How nutrition changes for "on" days vs "off" days The bias against carbs and the risk of cutting them out Training weight vs project weight How to manipulate weight quickly for a short-term cut Meal timing Whe…

1
#295 Prof Robert Schinke - 8 Steps to Succeeding in Sport, Work, and Life 1:00:34

24m ago1:00:34

1:00:34

I’m delighted to speak with renowned sport psychology consultant and scientist, Prof Robert Schinke this week. Robert is a former equestrian, representing Canada in the 1987 Pan-American Games. He has a Doctorate in Education from the University of Alberta and he completed post-doctoral studies in Positive Psychology at the University of Pennsylvan…

1
Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock 1:36:50

1h ago1:36:50

1:36:50

Elite climber Matt Samet shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Training: 0:9:22 Nutrition: 0:28:04 Tactics: 0:35:18 Mental Game: 0:52:33 Purpose: 1:09:37 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WH…

1
Enormocast 290: Hayden Jamieson -Through the Valley of Darkness 1:26:56

15d ago1:26:56

1:26:56

On Episode 290 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a cool, dark hotel room on a bright and HOT day in Lander, WY with bigwall climber, Hayden Jamieson. Hayden and I both slumped into our chairs after escaping the 100 degree day outside and tried to gather ourselves for the interview, and that’s when … Continue reading "Enormocast 290: Hayden Jamieson …

1
#294 Eamon Devlin - Creating the Right Half-Time Environment 51:29

1d ago51:29

51:29

I’m delighted to speak with Eamon Devlin this week. Eamon works with coaches and teams to help improve their half-time process. Eamon is head coach of several senior Gaelic football teams - women’s and men’s. He is currently manager of Hertfordshire Men’s County team and he is also a GAA-qualified referee. Eamon is also the founder of Minute9, a sp…

1
Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV 1:32:02

15d ago1:32:02

1:32:02

Coach Eric Hörst is back to coach Ryan on his hardest project to date, his first 13a. This beta-packed conversation covers: What went right and wrong on Ryan's almost-send last season How to carry a project over from one season to the next The secret to being a successful route climber Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training The science of building…

1
#293 Geir Jordet - Lessons from the Psychology of the Penalty Shootout 59:55

8d ago59:55

59:55

I’m delighted to welcome back Professor Geir Jordet this week. Geir is a world-leading expert on the psychology of penalty shootouts. Geir is Professor of Sport Psychology with a specialisation in football (soccer) and coaching at Norwegian School of Sport Sciences. His most extensive research interests involve performing under extreme pressure, co…

1
Meagan Martin: Olympics Predictions (who will podium?), Training like a Ninja Warrior, and What Happens When Comp Climbers Get Outdoors 1:26:28

13d ago1:26:28

1:26:28

Elite climber Meagan Martin shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:08:29 Training: 0:14:06 Nutrition: 0:24:34 Mental Game: 0:47:05 Purpose: 1:18:25 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGG…

1
#292 Stuart Morgan - Develop, Train, and Perform 1:10:24

28d ago1:10:24

1:10:24

I’m delighted to speak with Stuart Morgan this week. Stuart is a golf coach, practice consultant and an Advanced Member of the PGA of Great Britain. He is recognised by Golf Digest as one of the top international coaches. Stuart is currently the performance director of Swiss Golf, and performance coach at Iceberg Golf, and Stuart Morgan Golf where …

1
Enormocast 289: Smith Curry – A Climber Boy Can Survive

1M ago

—

On Episode 289 of the Enormocast, I connect to Nashville, TN to talk to climber and musician Smith Curry. Smith is one of the busiest session players in Music City on dobro and pedal steel. He also happens to be a veteran climber with big walls, first ascents, and alpine gnar under his harness-belt. Smith … Continue reading "Enormocast 289: Smith C…

1
Tension Crew: Pro Clinic on System Board Training, Achieving Faster Progress, Training and Projecting Tips, and Building Sport Climbing Endurance (FULL) 2:03:19

27d ago2:03:19

2:03:19

In this Pro Clinic, the Tension Crew covers: History of system boards and board culture Overview of popular boards and their strengths/weaknesses TB2 and what sets it apart Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced board tactics Utilizing adjustable angle and mirrored layout to speed up progression How to train sport climbing fitness on a board The best…

1
#291 Brad Stulberg - Focusing on the Process 50:46

1M ago50:46

50:46

I am excited to be joined by Brad Stulberg in this episode. Brad researches, writes, and coaches on mental health, well-being, and sustainable excellence. Brad is the author of the best-selling books Master of Change and The Practice of Groundedness and co-author of the books Peak Performance and The Passion Paradox. These books explore the art, sc…

1
Sam Watson: World’s Fastest Climber, Converting Strength to Power, Mindset Tips for Dealing with Pressure, and Olympics Preparation 1:18:56

27d ago1:18:56

1:18:56

Elite climber Sam Watson shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:08:17 Training: 0:21:51 Nutrition: 0:37:34 Tactics: 0:49:28 Mental Game: 0:53:29 Purpose: 1:03:31 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS…

1
#290 Stephen Maxwell - Looking for Coachable Moments 1:03:14

1M ago1:03:14

1:03:14

I’m delighted to speak with coach developer and coach, Stephen Maxwell this week. Stephen is the Coach Education Manager at Cricket Ireland, where he supports coaches and coach developers. Stephen has been coaching for approximately 22 years. He is currently the Senior Men's Football Manager at Thomas Davis GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) Club. P…

1
Enormocast 288: Don McGrath – The Vertical Mind Returns 1:05:58

1M ago1:05:58

1:05:58

On Episode 288 of the Enormocast, I reunite with Don McGrath, the author of the book Vertical Mind. Don appeared nearly a decade ago on the podcast, and his book on the mindset of climbing has never left the conversion. Don has spent the last 10 years learning even more about overcoming the hurdles our … Continue reading "Enormocast 288: Don McGrat…

1
Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Surprise Guest dr.climb, Dealing with Trolls, Enjoying Climbing While Injured, Yosemite Projects, and the Benefits of Comp-Style Climbing 1:08:43

1M ago1:08:43

1:08:43

Anna Hazelnutt and Ryan Devlin are joined by surprise guest Davis (dr.climb) for a wild and thoughtful chat that covers: Anna’s work on the ultra-classic Yosemite 13d, Peace The shifting landscape of climbing sponsorships and ‘influencer’ deals Dealing with trolls What injury can teach us about why we love climbing Olympics, parkour-style climbing,…

1
#289 Lisa Alexander AM - Reflections on Developing a World-Class Winning Coaching Programme Part 2 54:12

1M ago54:12

54:12

I am honoured to be joined again by high-performance consultant, Lisa Alexander, in this episode. Lisa works with coaches, teams and organisations to create winning and success-driven environments. Lisa is one of the most successful coaches in Australian sport. As the Head Coach of the Australian Diamonds, the Australian National Netball Team, Lisa…

1
Aidan Roberts: Training Bulletproof Fingers and Shoulders, Mastering Mindset, and Sending Two New V17s 1:32:50

1M ago1:32:50

1:32:50

Elite climber Aidan Roberts shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:07:24 Training: 0:17:20 Tactics: 0:55:21 Mental Game: 1:02:46 Purpose: 1:18:34 - ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portabl…

1
#288 Jonathan Pendlebury - Coaching at the Developmental Phase 1:15:09

2M ago1:15:09

1:15:09

I’m delighted to speak with Jonathan Pendlebury this week. Jonathan is the U18 Head Coach and Pathway Development Coach at the Rugby Football Union (RFU), the national governing body for rugby union in England. Jonathan oversees player development for the U17 and U18 year old (men) in the programmes and pathways of the RFU and the Premiership Rugby…

1
C4HP: Pro Clinic on Off-Season Finger Strength Training and Overall Strength Training 47:24

2M ago47:24

47:24

In this Pro Clinic, Collin and Jesse from Camp 4 Human Performance cover: What "off-season" training should (and should NOT) look like Determining the adaptations we're seeking off-season Benefits of getting stronger from "toes to nose" How our age plays into our strength training plan Proven finger strength training protocol that takes ~20 mins pe…

1
#287 Paddy Ryan - Developing a Culture of Care 58:39

2M ago58:39

58:39

I’m delighted to speak with Patrick “Paddy” Ryan this week. Paddy is Chief Coach of Cambridge University Boat Club (CUBC) for the women’s programme. Paddy has a wealth of rowing experience, having first started as a rower himself in his native Australia. After a move to the UK, he joined the Thames Rowing Club. Paddy also spent six years at London …

1
Enormocast 287: Mo Beck – A Certain Version of Fine 1:29:41

2M ago1:29:41

1:29:41

On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect with Paraclimbing champion, Mo Beck. Mo was born with one hand, and her parents were determined to make sure she was ready for challenges of life like any other kid. When Mo ran into a camp counselor that told her that she didn’t HAVE TO climb if … Continue reading "Enormocast 287: Mo Beck – A Certain Ver…

1
Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 1:55:56

2M ago1:55:56

1:55:56

Elite climber Carlo Traversi shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:15:16 Training: 0:25:58 Nutrition: 0:44:50 Tactics: 0:55:32 Mental Game: 1:16:54 Purpose: 1:29:47 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…

1
#286 Alan Keane - Building a Coaching Toolbox 1:08:21

2M ago1:08:21

1:08:21

I’m delighted to speak with basketball coach and qualified teacher, Alan Keane this week. Alan is a performance basketball coach with a focus on meeting the needs of the people he works with. He is the Great Britain U20 National Team Basketball Head Coach. Alan is also co-founder of MVMT sports, a mission-driven business for people who believe spor…

1
Coach Charlie Schreiber: Reducing "Junk Mileage” On and Off the Rock, Replica Training, and Mental Performance Hacks 1:21:22

2M ago1:21:22

1:21:22

Coach Charlie Schreiber of Paradigm Climbing joins to discuss: How to work with clients that have a busy schedule Junk milage of training and life Keeping up climbing fitness while traveling Creating replicas and training on them The Big Island Training harder than your proj Being happy with “just” progress Success is a state of mind Bonus Eps and …

1
#285 Dr Richard Young - Building a System for High Performance 1:01:35

2M ago1:01:35

1:01:35

I’m delighted to speak with mentor, speaker and author, Dr Richard Young this week. Richard works with leaders and experts to help them uncover sustained competitive advantage. Richard consults internationally to help people build sustainable performance systems and achieve faster. He works with Olympic sports, professional sports, national coaches…

1
Enormocast 286: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 1) 1:27:48

2M ago1:27:48

1:27:48

On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect through to America’s hat with Swiss crack-master, Didier Berthod. You might have heard about Didier from his recent send of Cobra Crack. The media mentions Didier disappearing from climbing for 10 years, returning to slay the Cobra, yada, yada, but that Didier’s completion of the Cobra has … Continue read…

1
Enormocast Tweener: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 2) 55:38

2M ago55:38

55:38

In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world. When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In … Continue reading "Enormocast Tween…

1
Paige Claassen: Stronger Fingers, Endurance Hacks, Injury Prevention, and Balancing Climbing and Parenthood 1:11:03

3M ago1:11:03

1:11:03

Elite climber Paige Claassen shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:10:26 Training: 0:15:31 Nutrition: 0:26:26 Tactics: 0:40:18 Mental Game: 0:48:16 Purpose: 0:59:53 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…

1
#284 Rob Walter & Adam Miles - Developing a Psychological Programme for High Performance in Elite Sport 1:09:44

3M ago1:09:44

1:09:44

I’m delighted to welcome back Adam Miles to the show this week. Adam is joined by Rob Walter, the Head Coach for the South African White Ball team in this episode. Rob holds a degree in Human Movement Sciences. He started his coaching career as conditioning and fielding coach for the Proteas, the South African National Cricket Team. During this tim…

1
Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Smith Rock Update, AI Theme Songs, Taking Falls, Feet Pics, How to Make $20M a Month, Climbing News 1:21:44

3M ago1:21:44

1:21:44

Anna Hazelnutt and Ryan Devlin go unscripted and unfiltered in this Crag Chat as they explore: Anna's Smith Rock tick list and updates AI-generated theme songs for the show Getting strong on a project but getting weaker as a climber Flying practice (the importance of taking falls) Feet pic update... and friendly competition How to make $20M a month…

1
Dr Jared Vagy: Pro Clinic on Climber Injuries, Rehab, and Prevention 39:10

3M ago39:10

39:10

In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Vagy covers the most common climber injuries, rehab, and prevention, including: Frequent shoulder injuries Simple exercises to strengthen the shoulder, build range-of-motion, and properly warm up before a session Why the elbow is a 'dumb joint' How to perform a simple self-assessment to determine what type of elbow issue you…

1
#283 Derek O’Riordan - The Craft of Coaching 1:02:42

3M ago1:02:42

1:02:42

I’m delighted to speak with Derek O’Riordan this week. Derek is Partnership Manager for Sport Scotland, the national agency for sport in Scotland. Derek works with governing bodies to support their investment for development. Derek is also a lecturer in sport management and coaching at the University of Stirling and a coach developer working in sit…

1
Enormocast 285: Nico Favresse – Mad to Live 1:38:27

3M ago1:38:27

1:38:27

On Episode 285 of the Enormocast, after long last, I connect with Belgian rock-climber and alpinist, Nico Favresse. Nico is certainly a contender for the most experienced expedition rock-climber of all time. Perhaps only rivalled by his ubiquitous partner, Sean Villanueva-O’Driscoll? Nevertheless, Nico is an all-arounder who has tackled the biggest…

1
Jonathan Siegrist: Success vs Failure, Limit Projecting, Try Hard Tactics, and What Happens When It Doesn’t Come Together 1:18:12

3M ago1:18:12

1:18:12

Elite climber Jonathan Siegrist is back on the show, and this time we dive deep into the concepts of success and failure in climbing, limit projecting, what happens when a climb doesn't come together... and how we can all learn from our struggles on rock to make our next go our best go. - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestru…

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