A few weeks ago I interviewed North American alpinist, Clint Helander, for a deep-dive feature I'm working on for The Firn Line. At the end of the conversation, I wanted to have a little fun. So we did a quick-fire back and forth on what we think the top 5 traits of an alpinist are. It's a short conversation, but it's packed with knowledge and a go…

Will Stanhope is a Squamish-based rock climber, who is known for his free solos, big adventures, and witty sense of humor. All of those avenues are explored in this conversation. We talk about his inspirations as a kid, how he got into climbing, who inspired him as a young climber, his most memorable free solo climbs, his memories of the late Marc …

The Cassin Ridge is the ultimate classic line on Denali, rising almost 10,000 directly up the middle of the South Face. First climbed in 1961 by a large Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, the route continues to be a testing ground for alpinists to this day. Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips Music curated using Artlist. SUBSCRIBE to The…

During a stretch of amazing weather and conditions in April, 2024, Suzanna Lourie and her partner, Olga Dobranowski, made an ascent of the ultra-classic Ham & Eggs route on The Moose's Tooth. The Moose's Tooth is a rock peak in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Denali. Despite its low elevation, it's a challenging climb due to its lar…

When Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper climbed the Northwest Face on Forbidden Peak in 1959, they had to have known it was a classic route. It had all the features mountaineers look for in a North Cascades alpine climb: an arduous and long approach, tricky navigation over crevasse-laden glaciers, and steep exposed climbing to a sharp pointed summit. Since …

Today, we’ll get to know Seattle-based author, climber, skier, and historian, Lowell Skoog. Lowell is a fixture in the Northwest outdoor scene, and has been exploring mountains in the Pacific Northwest for 60 years. In this conversation, we’ll talk about Lowell’s early years of exploration in the Cascades, some of the folks who’ve inspired him over…

When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson's Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America's greatest alpine climbs. Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world's best climbers, maintaining it's reputation as one of North America's most enduring alpine walls. Written and produced by Evan Phillips …

You don't just throw a Trans-Antarctic Expedition or an International Geophysical Year together. These things take planning. Here's some background on the planners and introductions to some of the doers.

Several years of Macquarie Island winters receive attention as I chill out under a Casuarina after several fraught months.

I give voice to another almost but not quite lost snippet from "Big Dead Place" and I give the microphone to Adam Fitzgerald who voices the introduction to Jeff Maynard's new book, "The Frontier Below."

In 1983 Australian glaciologist Trevor Hamley joined a Soviet traverse from the Russian coastal station, Mirny, to Dome Charlie, high atop the Antarctic plateau. Bouncing about in the back of a T-55 tank converted into a living quarters/galley/dining space/lab, recording locations on audio cassette tape, wielding a hammer, and ignoring the ideologi…

Australian Antarctic Division alumnus, Jeff Wilson, recounts his experiences at Australian stations and in the Ross Sea. Road trip with our eldest. Good company at Anglesea. Good food. Good audio. One of the best days 2023 offered up.

The ANARE presence at Heard Island runs to 1955 and switches focus to continental Antarctica. The Island taught Australians to work on glaciers and to run dog teams, saw John Bechervaise cut his Antarctic teeth and lead the first ascent of Big Ben, and claimed the lives of two winterers. "Ice Coffee" leaves Heard Island alone for a bit having docum…

ANARE occupation at Heard Island ran short but intense, and sometimes in tents. In addition to large quantities of wind and sleet the island provided a training ground for Antarctic travelers and their dogs. Challenging maritime approaches led to innovative approaches by maritime challengers, and everyone got home safely, this episode.…

Argentina and Britain needle each other over what huts go where around the Antarctica Peninsula and notes of protest change hands at a fevered pace. Hot heads at low temperatures lead to a low ebb in high latitudes camaraderie ashore at Hope Bayhia Esperanza. And Chile was there, too.

Yet another amazing interview through which to inform you and by which to relieve myself of the burden to write and record a chronological narrative episode this month. "Ice Coffee": where me goofing off and being lazy still results in audio gold.

Professor Meredith Nash spent two years studying and reporting on the culture within the Australian Antarctic Division. Their findings, released late in 2022, may prove a turning point in the history of Australia's presence in Antarctica. Professor Nash spoke to me about their research and their experiences in Antarctica as part of the inaugural Ho…

Josh Jensen spent an austral summer keeping LC-130 Ski Hercules operational out of McMurdo. I spoke to him about the challenges that throws up and found out the days of boiling a pot of oil over the stove and pouring it into the sump ended with the last big roundy engines to depart the continent in the 1970s. Cheers to Josh for putting aside time t…

Some historical and political context for the Russian return south in Soviet Union form. Bolsheviks: form soviets and roll out.

Begguya - Mount hunter - at 14,537 feet tall - a massif that is dominated in scale by its neighbors Sultana and Denali - but a mountain that dominates the minds and hearts of many a mountaineer. And this was the case for Alaskan alpinist Clint Helander in the spring of 2021 when on a hunch, he called August Franzen - a young Alaskan climber who’d b…

I haven't interviewed other Antarctic podcasters because that would make for dull content. "Do you press record? Wow! I do, too! Hey, how good is Audacity? Antarctica's cold, huh?" This episode I interview Samantha Hodder about her Antarctic podcast because the stories told in her series, "This Is Our Time," lie so far outside those recounted in my…

Paul Emile-Victor's charges are ashore and charging. But wait, there's more. Call now and get this free base fire valued at over five buildings.

Port Martin. Port Au Francaise. Port Malloy. Port Jean d'Arc. You'd think the French would switch up it with some cognac or cointreau.

If you set an AI process in motion to build a hard as nails nineteenth century seadog you'd likely arrive at Dave Donnelly in ninety-nine percent of your iterations. Dave looks and moves through the world as though he just stepped out of the pages of a Joseph Conrad book. Have a listen to episode 140 to understand why I value Dave's company and reg…

Professor Daniella McCahey of Texas Tech discusses sexism at Antarctic stations. * Except by HamiltonSuites, who should lie on their left side, raise their right knee to their chest, lubricate this episode and stick it up their arse.

Ice'll kill ya' That's what I said Ice'll kill ya' And then you'll be dead

In the summer of 1995, John Climaco and Andrew Brash were young dirtbag alpinists looking for the adventure of a lifetime. The duo certainly got that and more when they flew to Pakistan for an attempt on Chogolisa (7,665 m / 25,148 ft). Turns out, the climb was only a small part of the journey. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Notes Spec…

For mountaineers and adventurers, there’s a rich history of exploration in and around Alaska's Denali National Park. And although the park is mostly known for the hordes of people who attempt to climb Denali each season - few have ever thought about circumnavigating the Denali, Foraker (Sultana) and Hunter (Begguya) massifs - let alone in winter. T…

Thomas Walkington speaks about the wreck of the Pegasus and his time on the ice as part of VXE-6. Jim Butler showers praise on me and my output after discussing how he engages with Antarctica from half a world away. Jeff Maynard maps how he chose what to include and what to leave out of his most recent book about Sir Hubert Wilkins. Strap your ears…

I wasn't expecting the Greek shipping magnate.

You know that saying - “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”. I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression. In the climbing world, It conjures up icons like Lynn Hill, Jim Bridwell, Catherine Freer, and Royal Robbins - just to name a few. You know you have someone like that in your life. It’s someone who’s tough. They ha…

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires - a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali. In early June, North American climbers Graham Zimmerman, Dave Allfrey and Whit Magro, headed into the Kichatna’s - their sites set on a new line up the beautiful northwest face of the ranges namesake - Kichatna Spire. Although many…

Notes Produced by Evan Phillips Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak Support The Firn Line Patreon PayPal Merch Sponsors Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding MarmotBy Brian Harder, Evan Phillips

The western Chugach - the mountains surrounding Anchorage and the Mat-su valley to the east, are a veritable playground for hikers and climbers. Although the rock is predominantly poor in quality, the peaks are striking, sometimes rising 5,000 from the valley floor, with a variety of snow and ice lines penetrating their faces. Historically, these p…

Three members of the NBSAE drown in an accident on the barrier edge. Every other member of the NBSAE does their bit in making the project one of the most productive and smooth running examples of its type and of its time. Besides kicking off or sustaining the high latitudes careers of several scientist with extremely long Ice Coffee legs the glacio…

John Giaever storms it in as a high latitudes can-do-mo-fo with an international team of scientists. No matter how many committees got involved and put their bureaucratic handbrake on the NBSAE, the residents of Maudheim got south and got on with their data gathering and trail prep.

Call me old school, but nothing gets me more fired up than adding a new adventure, climbing or mountaineering book to the collection. So I was excited last month, when Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart of Yosemite Climbing, arrived at my doorstep. This anthology, edited and curated by Lauren DeLaunay Miller, is a collection of 39 st…

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations. First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years. The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and th…

The role of ham radio operators in keeping Antarcticans sane through the long dark is given some attention. Additional audio of Vivian Fuchs speaking to Donald Milner at the BBC was made available by Thomas Henderson of Graceful Willow Productions and with the permission of Jules Madey (http://www.gwillow.com/) The music closing out this episode is…

By Evan Phillips, Vasu Sojitra

A brief and patchy history of Chile as context for the nation's expeditions southward in the twentieth century.By Matthew Alan McArthur

They say that Alaska is a place of extremes. This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of course, the size of the monolithic mountains. But it also applies to the races - and I’m not talking about Nascar. There’s the Iditarod - a grueling 950 mile dog sled race from Anchorage to Nome, that tr…

It was the summer of 1996. At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska. That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly ou…

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham. This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••…

Heard and Macquarrie Islands: tragedy, rockets, sheep, and ham.By Matthew Alan McArthur

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared …

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report. Storytelling is an integral part of human nature - and climbing and adventure stories are no exception. There’s nothing better than sitting around a campfire on a crisp, desert night - listening to a friend share a story of ad…

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana - or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few. But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska. This temperate region, …

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway. I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2. Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his te…

The first Australian National Antarctic Research Expedition gets moving. Led my Campbell, informed by Mawson, and ignoring any potential input from Davis, the first foryas didn't kick all the committee proposed goals but a start is a start. Heard Island. Macquarrie Island. The last Antarctic outing of the Wyatt Earp. The first Antarctic outing of L…