Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer 🧤. Doug hails from Salt Lake City where he began climbing in the 1970s. He was an extensive route developer, including many mixed climbs in the Wasatch, competed at the X Games, and has been at the vanguard for product at Black Diamond…

Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it’s not even close. It’s possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks. The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it’s his unique position as an …

This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed. To discuss these diverse disciplines, we’re joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties. Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American t…

- Emailing Someone "Good Afternoon" 10am and On. - Middle of the Night Drunk Freshen Up. - Limes in the AC. - "We've Already Seen This." Chop.By All Things Comedy

Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That’s not to say it’s been easy. Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing 🧗‍♀️, Backpacker 🥾, Smithsonian 🗿, and the like. Around the time she started writing full-time, she also starte…

- Shower Apple. - Wedding Moves. - Snacks at the Dive Bar. - Hold on to Your Old Hotel Key Cards So You Can Use Their Bathroom.By All Things Comedy

I’m sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude 🧗‍♀️, went on 8,000-meter peak expeditions 🏔️, sent M8, skied 50-degree…

- Book Club With the Boys. - Marking Your Golf Ball With Vulgar Language So They Don't Get Resold in the Pro Shop. - If You Have Control of the Music in the Store You Work At, Pick a Song Based on the Customers Vibe and See if They Say Something. - Bring Your Own Knives to an Airbnb.By All Things Comedy

- Indoor Tents. - Watching People Screw Up on Game Shows. - Road Trip Conspiracy Theories. - Show Up to a Family Dinner Early and Grab a Few Drinks at the Bar Before Anyone Shows Up.By All Things Comedy

How many of you were inspired to start climbing because of a comic? I’m sure Masato Najakima is not alone, but he is the only person I can say with certainty that that's the case. (And if you’re curious, it was Gaku: Minna no Yama (in English, "Peak: Everyone's Mountain")). Anywho, Masato is a leading drytooler in Japan and was one of a contingent …

- Rawdogging Flights. - Celtics Parade, No Phone. - Plug in the IG. Turn on Notifications. - If Any Media or Paparazzi Show Up. Please Don’t Tell Them What Room I’m In.By All Things Comedy

Pavel Dobrinskiy is a leading figure within the drytooling community in Moscow and is one of the most prolific route setters on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🌏. Maybe you’ve heard about the Russian style of setting — its high-tension ⚡️ moves are calculated for maximum kinetic energy like Ivan Drago in route form #sterotypingmuch? Perhaps. Any…

Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist’s bag of tricks 🪄, but the technical and impossibly steep style we know these days only started to come into its own in the ‘90s. The period has been referred to as the Modern M-Revolution — a period when grades advanced rapidly, from about M8 to M13 📈 — and lasted roughly from the mid-90s to the early…

Breaking down the following Moves with Strider Wilson. - Bowling Solo. - Putting Your Name Tag Anywhere Else but Front Right or Front Left Part of Your Chest. - Strider Pivot Move. - Send Your Boys Memes via the Mail.By All Things Comedy

Whether you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer’s case, it does seem to bear out. During Angelika’s 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit …

- Bag of cherries to snack on during the road trip. Healthy and delicious, works with other fruit too. - Preflight 7am wet shave at Munich airport. - When an app asks if you'd like to receive notifications but there's literally no reason you'd ever need to ever receive a notification from said app. - Move your Trader Joe's salad into bigger tupperw…

What are those funny folks in tights doing on the YouTubez, kicking into the whozimiwuchits and spitting off those metal thingamajigs? If you, like me, have ever had questions about Ice Climbing World Cups, this is your episode of Ice Ice Beta… because today we chat with, Rob Adie, the man responsible for organizing the UIAA World Cup Tour. He’s so…

Kevin Lindlau is one of the rare birds in drytooling who excels at both comp *and* outdoor climbing. In January, Kevin completed the second ascent of “Aletheia”, rated D16 ✅, becoming only the second person in the world to climb the grade. (There’s some nuance here since other routes have been proposed at D16, but this is the first route that has b…

- Shaking Hands With the People Behind You in the Bleachers as You Sit Down. - Solo Beer Post Work. - Don’t Order Flights or Ask To Taste a Beer at a Brewery. - Post Up at the Farmers' Market and Become Straight Boys With the Honey Guy.By All Things Comedy

- Go to Your Assigned Exam Room a Few Days Ahead of the Test to Scout out the Room. - Deleting Twitter and Having My Friend Recap the Timeline for Me Like It’s the Daily Paper. - Croakies With Eclipse Glasses. - Binder No Parking Sign. - Bindles. - When Your Friend Gets a New Job With a Uniform, Especially a Retail or Food Chain One, Grab a Photo H…

- After Winning a Game of 21 on Your Buddy’s Hoop Attempt To Cut Down the Net. - Hang Up Signed Pictures of Your Buddies Like They’re Pro Athletes. - Build a Small Stage To Stand on When You’re Playing Guitar Hero. - Pulling Some Tables Together at the Dining Hall and Eating Across From Your Boy Like Monarchs.…

And then there were 4. After weeks of grueling Moves matchups we're down to 4 Moves fighting for the ultimate crown. Bobby D further breaks down the Moves and give his predictions.By All Things Comedy

- Vacuum the Carpet Like the Outfield in the World Series. - Tossing an Airtag in Your Zyn. - “A Gentleman’s Travels” - Condom Bookmark. - Tipping Your Relatives/Friends When Paying Rent in Monopoly. - Diplo Female Tickets Cheaper.By All Things Comedy

Bobby dials in the seeds for the 2024 Moves Madness tournament. It's a longer episode where he goes full on babble mode and struggles with renaming files... God bless you for listening.By All Things Comedy

It’s a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he’s built a career on that foundation. You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He’s spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine …

- Building a Heli Pad in Your Garden Even Though You Don’t Own a Helicopter. - Grab a Couple Bikes and Ride Around Your Hometown Neighborhood With Your Boys Like You Used to When You Were in Middle School. - Snow on Beers. - Learning an Entirely Different Language Without Telling Anyone. Wait for an Opportune Moment To Reveal Your Hidden Ability. -…

What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection? I’m betting you didn’t expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing. But that’s Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his i…

- Hitting a “Too Small” Celly on Your Professor After Turning in an Exam. - “I Was Overserved.” “Asking the Boys if They’ve Seen Any Good Pornos Lately.” - Theragun Toothbrush. - Getting in and Out of Your Car Through the Window. - Intense Martini Shake.By All Things Comedy

It’s rare to find American-made climbing companies. The shortlist includes the likes of Metolius, Organic, Misty Mountain, UnParallel, and a handful of rope producers. It’s even rarer to find technical apparel made in the U.S., which makes NW Alpine so distinct. And by technical, I mean purpose-built clothing designed for the elements, not adventur…

- Go to a Rage Room and Lie on the Floor in Perfect Silence. - Buy Some Stock in the Companies That Your Buddies Work For. - “Did You Do Chores When You Were Younger?” - Comment, “So True.” On a Post That’s in Another Language. - Solo Beer To Go.By All Things Comedy

Today on Ice Ice Beta, we’re chatting with Melissa Orzechowski of The Adirondack Queer Ice Fest 🌈 a no-cost ice climbing festival solely dedicated to the LGBTQ+ outdoor community. When the idea first came about, the organizers, Melissa, Robbi, and Nol, thought they might be the only attendees — something for just the three of them. They didn’t know…

- Tipping the Sound Engineer at a Concert. - Hat Movie Holder. - What Floor? Then Just Stand There. - The Ol' Wheel of Destiny. - Newspaper Mid Rep.By All Things Comedy

This is the first of a new series — the Community Spotlight — which is a way to celebrate everyday folks who are helping to grow the sports of ice climbing and drytooling. You may have seen Jon Blackwood’s shipping container project on Instagram (which he is working on with Johnny Korthuis), if you’re curious like I was this chat is about what he’s…

- Sniff the Petrol Nozzle Before Pumping Gas and Slightly Nod Your Head Like a Wine Connoisseur. - Putting the 4s Up on a Plane When the Pilot Says We Are Going to Begin Landing. - Practicing the Tush Push With Your Boys. - Starting Your College Essays With a Big Fancy Letter Like They Do in an Old Book. - Wine on the Lamb?…

We’re headed across the pond on this episode of Ice Ice Beta. Today, we’re chatting with Willis Morris and Oz Miller of the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club. The club has been called the developmental model of the future, a rolling circus, and bonkers by various authorities. But what is the organization, how does it work, and why has it been so successful…

- Calling Shotgun in Your Own Car and Making Your Buddy Drive. - Taking a Seat and Having a Snack in Target. - Using a Retired Bacon Cheddar Wendy’s Billboard Banner for a Boat Cover. - Buying 27,000 Pong Balls. - Saying, "That's a Cute Top" Next Time Your Buddy Breaks Out a New Shirt.By All Things Comedy

What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire? That’s the subject of today’s chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.) Surprisingly, Jon’s only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter F…

- Pre-Chill Your Pillow in the Mini Fridge. - Ripping a Jeopardy Episode After a Night Out. - Showering at Halftime While Watching Sports. - Pringles Can as a Beer Transporter. - National Anthem To Start a Road Trip.By All Things Comedy

I’ve been dry-tooling more than ice climbing this winter, largely because it’s been frustratingly warm in New England. Call this my adaptation strategy — but really, I feel like I’m just getting ahead of the curve since trigger alert: dry-tooling is the future of ice climbing. #provemewrong(please) Not to be all dire, dour and doom and gloom, but g…

Kendra Stritch made history by becoming the first American to win a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup medal in December of 2014 — when she took gold on the speed wall in Bozeman, Montana. Since then, Kendra has been a major force in developing dry-tooling and competitive ice climbing in the U.S.: She helped to formalize USA Ice Climbing under the auspice…

Life doesn’t follow a clean and cut narrative arc — unlike the stories we tell. Sure, it might all start and end the same way for folks, but it’s the complex, messy middle that makes us, us. One of our tendencies with storytelling is to simplify, which means skimming over a lot of the details. But when we do that we might find the narrative doesn’t…

- “My Dog Eats All His Meals Laying Down.” - Decoy Sweatshirt. - Upside Down Airpod. - “This Guy’s One of the Best in the Business.” - Cooler as a Carry-On.By All Things Comedy

In today’s episode with Tom Beirne, we talk about the psychology of performance and the ethics of developing a new dry-tooling crag. Tom doesn’t love labels — and definitely don’t call him the dry-tooling guy — but to help paint a picture he’s a mixed climber from Seattle who especially enjoys questing, runs The Barn, a dry-tooling gym, helped to d…

- Standing on the Squatty Potty When You Pee. - Toothbrush Tucked In. - Recommending a Show to a Friend That You Haven’t Watched. - Fantasy Players Group Chat. - Loitering.By All Things Comedy

It takes a village to raise an ice festival, and for Liz Sahagún and her co-organizers, it’s all hands on deck for the All In Ice Fest — which will take place from January 5th to the 7th of 2024. Entering their third year, the mission of the fest is to create a space where folks from historically marginalized communities can simply have fun ice cli…

- Always Carrying and Paying With $2 Bills. - Keeping Tank Dell in the IR Spot To Give Him a Shot at a Ring. - Bob Ross at the Gym. - Dry Cleaning the Darty Jersey. - Using the Instrumental Break on Your Karaoke Selection to Order Group Shots.By All Things Comedy

- Have Your Funeral at a Smaller Church So There’s Not Enough Seats for Everybody and People Have To Stand So It Looks Like You Were the Most Important Person in the World. - Hanging the 6 Pack Off the Belt. - Swiping Everything Off the Dinner Table and Putting Down a Big Map to Explain the Plan. - Throwing Your Spotify Wrapped on Every Group Text.…

What goes into making an ice axe? Of course there is technical know-how, design, and testing, but for Marty Theriault, it was more like an act of therapy. And a way to connect with friends. Marty started Forecast Equipment after he was medically released from the Canadian military for PTSD. He’d been percolating on the idea of a new tool and finall…

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Kyle Siegel, the Founder of Raide, which makes gear that supports efficient human-powered movement in the mountains. Their first major drop is the LF 40L which may be the…

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we’ll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. 🎙Today we chat with Benjamin Leibham, the Founder of Alto Gear, which make ice climbing accessories out of upcycled and recycled material. You’ve probably seen Ben’s ice screw wrap at an ice…