Mike Yardey: Europe's best railway restaurants

Saturday Morning with Jack Tame

If you’re tripping your way around Europe independently, travelling by train is the incomparable transport mode of choice. It’s the fast, efficient and faff-free way to travel, with the added bonus of depositing you in the absolute heart of dream European destinations.

But across Europe, their grand and venerable railway stations also house some remarkable restaurant experiences – the real hidden treasures housed within these grand-scale transport hubs. So why settle for an underwhelming grab-and-go sandwich when Europe’s busiest stations host some brilliant trackside brasseries and bistros? They’re also a great way to herald your arrival or departure from some glittering destinations. More and more of these station restaurants have really upped their culinary game in recent years. So where should you go to sample some of the best in class?

Starting in London, Booking Office 1869 is located within St. Pancras Station. As the name suggests, it was originally the vast ticket office for the station. Four years ago, the space was redesigned as a Victorian-style winter garden, with towering palm trees and plant-themed chandeliers. Each one of features 275 hand-cut brass leaves! Backed by exposed brickwork, a superb 22-metre-long bar, carved from marble and walnut. Dining? Expect British classics alongside nods to far-flung destinations. The Scottish charcuterie board is perfect for lunch. It’s also a great spot for high tea.

Paris? You cannot beat Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. Dating back to 1901, this explosion of Belle Époque grandeur fast became a meeting place for artists, poets and playwrights, and the decor was inspired by the Mediterranean coast’s most glamorous destinations. The walls are lined with priceless watercolour paintings, while chandeliers, gilt-framed mirrors, frescos and leather banquettes ramp up the luxury. Headlining the delectable menu, Provençal-style octopus stew and the roast leg of lamb, carved tableside. You may recall this is the restaurant from the Bean Movie, where Mr Bean had some trouble trying to swallow the king prawns.

For a memorable first-class dining experience in Amsterdam, the Grand Café Restaurant 1e Klas is located by Platform 2 of the Centraal Station. It also embodies the timeless romance of rail travel, with the restaurant preserving its original look and elegant style of the 19th century. It was originally the first-class waiting hall. The extensive menu offers quick turnarounds, while the croquette and bitterbal tasting is very popular. True to the weird and eclectic Dutch sense of humour, a rather talkative cockatoo called Elvis, perched by the bar.

Tripping to Spain? Estación Barcelona-Sants station is home to La Mundana. This recent Bib Gourmand recipient serves up masterful takes on Spanish, Japanese and French

classics, tapas-style. Artistically plated, it’s a stirring dining experience, but also sharply-priced and unpretentious.

For steeply-priced posh nosh in Brussels, La Brasserie de la Gare Brussels Midi has earned the Michelin Guide’s stamp of approval. But aside from the cuisine, it’s the décor that is the big draw, with antique train lanterns, train timetables and railway workers’ hats richly adorning the restaurant. For a bite that won’t weigh too heavily on your wallet, whistle up some shrimp croquettes.

If you’re Itay-bound and find yourself at Stazione Centrale in Milan, check out All’AnticoVinaio. This exuberantly decorated eatery and its owner has become a Tik Tok sensation, with videos galore of him constructing his double-decker Italian subs. Made using the freshest schiacciata bread, sink your teeth into the ‘Favolosa’ sandwich, which is stacked with salami, pecorino cheese, artichoke spread and spicy eggplants.

If you’re after a Golden Arches experience to blow your hair back, Nyugati Railway Station in Budapest, Hungary, is home to what is claimed to be the world’s most beautiful McDonald’s. It has just reopened after a tip-to-toe restoration to the 150 year old building. The antique lamps and painted stucco ceilings have been refreshed, keeping the vintage designs in place, including the huge glass windows that go around the entire building, as well as copper-covered light fixtures. Amid all the neo-Classical glory from the Hapsburg empire, the touch-screen ordering kiosks look curiously out of place.

Finally, a newcomer to the star-factor scene of railway restaurants can be found in Athens at Rouf Station. Greek actress Tatiana Ligari founded Wagon Restaurant restoring several vintage train carriages - including the original dining car from the 1926 Simplon Orient Express. A century later, the carriage is a fabulous restaurant and bar once again. The evocative romance of rail lives on. Spending some time in some of these restaurants is virtually worth missing your train for.

Grab a ticket to ride on the European railway network with a Eurail Pass. On popular rail routes, it certainly pays to make a seat reservation in advance. Lock in your rail plans ahead of your trip, by booking tickets or a rail pass to suit with Eurail direct. The mobile pass is the way to go. The Eurail app is easy to navigate, packed with helpful information and benefits, network disruption notifications, and enabling you to check timetables, lock-in and change bookings on the go, via your phone. www.eurail.com

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.

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