Squaring Lumber, Table Top Cracks, Machine Maintenance, And MORE!!! Woodshop Life podcast

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Squaring Lumber, Table Top Cracks, Machine Maintenance, and MORE!!!

7 days ago 57:29

MP3•Episode home

This Episodes Questions:

Brian's Questions:

I know planing before face jointing is sacraledge but I was recently visiting with an older experienced wood worker who noted he never face joints. Planes both sides then edge joints and it’s fine.

Thoughts? Thinking if you want it dead flat perfect or board is not great to start with jointing certainly makes sense. But anybody just plane it? Perhaps starting with a decent board it would work for most applications?

My 20” planer is a breeze to put wood through, the jointer is great but takes more effort/time if it’s not needed would be a nice step to drop.

Curious on your thoughts, Matt Wendig

I’m preparing to build a set of kitchen cupboards from white oak. The style will be Mission, with some Frank Lloyd Wright Prairies Style touches. I have several questions.
I need to cut up a lot of 3/4" plywood. I have a good track saw and a cabinet tablesaw with side and outfeed tables. When watching videos of some people constructing kitchen cabinets, I’m surprised that they cut the sheet goods with the track saw but then cut them again, to final size, on the table saw. I imagined myself using the track saw only—to do very precise cuts to final size and not cutting the panels twice. What is your process? Any advice on maximizing my chances of getting near-perfect panels with the track saw only and avoiding the two-cuts process? Darrin
Guy's Questions:
Hey guys, love the podcast. I’m making a screen door for the porch out of cedar that is 1.5” thick, 36” x 84” with 5.5” wide stiles and rails (top, middle and bottom). I have a festool DF500, if I used 10 x 50 dominoes for the joinery would that be strong enough or should I use traditional mortise and tenons?

I’ve read that cedar is pretty dimensionally stable. I was thinking about just staining or oiling the door (I don’t want it to turn gray) but does it need an actual topcoat to help keep it from warping? Just don’t want to use a finish that is going to flake off and I will have to sand and refinish every year or so. If it needs a topcoat could you recommend a finish?

Thanks,
Scott in Birmingham.

Throughly enjoy the pod cast. I am almost up to date on all past episodes and they hve been quite informative. Little back story on my question. Had a client contact me about repairing a dinning table they had built for their home. For clarity I didn’t build the table. The top is a solid wood glue up with breadboards on the ends. On one end of the top the breadboard sticks out about 1/16” past the rest of the top. On the other end 2 boards have a split between the glue line that stretches roughly 2 feet along their length. I’m sure it is from the wood contracting. Any pointers on how to repair the issue? I’m 99.9% sure the table top is made from southern yellow pine. It is stained with a top coat of poly acrylic. Robert

Huy's Questions:

Hello guys,

I love the podcast and have learned a ton from you. Keep up the great work and thank you for your time.

I have a question on how you store your tools that require precision/calibration. Specifically, I have an Incra 5000 cross cut sled. When not in use, I store it standing on its side on the shop floor. Is there a better / more correct way? Similar question goes for any other shop made sled / jig that you expect to use over and over again. How do you store it?

Max
Greddie Woodworks

It was mentioned that one of you repalced the wheels on his band saw, do to it wearing out and it was a pain. I have bought a used 14 inch delta bandsaw, and I have no idea how to know if parts are worn out beside the obvious part being the blade. So how can I figure out parts are worn out, sources to shop for replacements ( no home depo in Okinawa) tips and or youtube videos on how to do these maintainance tasks? Oh and what you do to increase the function of a band saw, like would you buy a bow system fence for it?

Many thanks,
Paul Mitchell
Oki Mitch Crafts

113 episodes

#Podcasting Education #Woodshop Life #Hey Guys

Squaring Lumber, Table Top Cracks, Machine Maintenance, and MORE!!!

Woodshop Life Podcast

19 subscribers

published 7 days ago

MP3•Episode home

This Episodes Questions:

Brian's Questions:

I know planing before face jointing is sacraledge but I was recently visiting with an older experienced wood worker who noted he never face joints. Planes both sides then edge joints and it’s fine.

My 20” planer is a breeze to put wood through, the jointer is great but takes more effort/time if it’s not needed would be a nice step to drop.

Curious on your thoughts, Matt Wendig

Thanks,
Scott in Birmingham.

Huy's Questions:

Hello guys,

I love the podcast and have learned a ton from you. Keep up the great work and thank you for your time.

Max
Greddie Woodworks

Many thanks,
Paul Mitchell
Oki Mitch Crafts

113 episodes

#Podcasting Education #Woodshop Life #Hey Guys

All episodes

Woodshop Life Podcast

1
Squaring Lumber, Table Top Cracks, Machine Maintenance, and MORE!!! 57:29

7 days ago57:29

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Liked

57:29

This Episodes Questions: Brian's Questions: I know planing before face jointing is sacraledge but I was recently visiting with an older experienced wood worker who noted he never face joints. Planes both sides then edge joints and it’s fine. Thoughts? Thinking if you want it dead flat perfect or board is not great to start with jointing certainly makes sense. But anybody just plane it? Perhaps starting with a decent board it would work for most applications? My 20” planer is a breeze to put wood through, the jointer is great but takes more effort/time if it’s not needed would be a nice step to drop. Curious on your thoughts, Matt Wendig I’m preparing to build a set of kitchen cupboards from white oak. The style will be Mission, with some Frank Lloyd Wright Prairies Style touches. I have several questions. I need to cut up a lot of 3/4" plywood. I have a good track saw and a cabinet tablesaw with side and outfeed tables. When watching videos of some people constructing kitchen cabinets, I’m surprised that they cut the sheet goods with the track saw but then cut them again, to final size, on the table saw. I imagined myself using the track saw only—to do very precise cuts to final size and not cutting the panels twice. What is your process? Any advice on maximizing my chances of getting near-perfect panels with the track saw only and avoiding the two-cuts process? Darrin Guy's Questions: Hey guys, love the podcast. I’m making a screen door for the porch out of cedar that is 1.5” thick, 36” x 84” with 5.5” wide stiles and rails (top, middle and bottom). I have a festool DF500, if I used 10 x 50 dominoes for the joinery would that be strong enough or should I use traditional mortise and tenons? I’ve read that cedar is pretty dimensionally stable. I was thinking about just staining or oiling the door (I don’t want it to turn gray) but does it need an actual topcoat to help keep it from warping? Just don’t want to use a finish that is going to flake off and I will have to sand and refinish every year or so. If it needs a topcoat could you recommend a finish? Thanks, Scott in Birmingham. Throughly enjoy the pod cast. I am almost up to date on all past episodes and they hve been quite informative. Little back story on my question. Had a client contact me about repairing a dinning table they had built for their home. For clarity I didn’t build the table. The top is a solid wood glue up with breadboards on the ends. On one end of the top the breadboard sticks out about 1/16” past the rest of the top. On the other end 2 boards have a split between the glue line that stretches roughly 2 feet along their length. I’m sure it is from the wood contracting. Any pointers on how to repair the issue? I’m 99.9% sure the table top is made from southern yellow pine. It is stained with a top coat of poly acrylic. Robert Huy's Questions: Hello guys, I love the podcast and have learned a ton from you. Keep up the great work and thank you for your time. I have a question on how you store your tools that require precision/calibration. Specifically, I have an Incra 5000 cross cut sled. When not in use, I store it standing on its side on the shop floor. Is there a better / more correct way? Similar question goes for any other shop made sled / jig that you expect to use over and over again. How do you store it? Max Greddie Woodworks It was mentioned that one of you repalced the wheels on his band saw, do to it wearing out and it was a pain. I have bought a used 14 inch delta bandsaw, and I have no idea how to know if parts are worn out beside the obvious part being the blade. So how can I figure out parts are worn out, sources to shop for replacements ( no home depo in Okinawa) tips and or youtube videos on how to do these maintainance tasks? Oh and what you do to increase the function of a band saw, like would you buy a bow system fence for it? Many thanks, Paul Mitchell Oki Mitch Crafts…

Woodshop Life Podcast

1
Table Saw Blades, Veneer Patterns, Cocobolo Woes and MORE!!! 54:25

21 days ago54:25

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54:25

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hi Guys love your podcast. I have a quick question regarding table saw blades. Can you give me a recommendation on a good quality 10" table saw blade that I can get re-sharpened when needed. I keep blowing through blades and I'm tired of buying new ones. Also, do you send the blades back to get re-sharpened or take them to your nearest local blade sharpening place thanks in advance Dave I’m making an ash table top (never used ash before) and had a few questions. How should I edge join the boards for glue up (domino or biscuits), what’s the best finish for ash when used as a desk to avoid feeling the grain on ash. I don’t have a sprayer but could be a good excuse to get one. What edge profiles do you guys like to use for tables and/or desk that get lots of use and also look good? Chayse Guy's Questions: My latest project is an Arts & Crafts sideboard made in quartersawn white oak. I'm at the point in the project where I need to start thinking about how to finish the piece. Its my first time working with this wood and I'm considering fuming the piece with ammonia as I've read that this process will really make the grain rays stand out. People seem pretty divided on whether its worth the time and risk of working with harmful chemicals and I wanted to get your collective thoughts and experience. Have you used an ammonia fuming process? Do you think its worth it? Any tips or tricks to share? I'm in the northeast so the current low temps add some complexity as I've learned that colder temperatures slow down the process. Regards, Adam I'm working on a veneered box. Normally you'd glue a similarly oriented veneer on the back surface to prevent warping. For the veneer, I'm planning on cross cutting small strips and then gluing them together, roughly like how inlays are made. I'll then be cutting thin slices from the resulting laminated assembly. I'll be using the thin slices as the veneer, like a mosaic or a quilt. The grain of these thin slices will run in different directions. Do I still need a backing? If so, in which direction should the backing grain run? Lauris Huy's Questions: The topic of wood movement comes up pretty regularly on this show. When it does, however, it is typically related to questions on how to account for it in regards to a specific project or joinery method. Meanwhile, I'm sitting here wondering what wood movement actually is. I understand that humidity and temperature cause wood to expand or contract, but that's about where my understanding ends. Why is it important to account for wood movement? What happens if you don't? What is this business I've heard mentioned about projects exploding? On a related note, often when questions about mitigating wood movement come up the answers to those questions are something along the lines of "If you use __________ (type of joinery, layout, etc) you shouldn't have to worry about wood movement." As someone still very new to the principles of woodworking, the question I always have is: why? Why will using such and such method or assembling your project in this or that manner mitigate wood movement? Zach Hey guys. Love your podcast and appreciate the help you’ve given me over the years with your knowledge and experience in the craft. I have an entryway table I’m building out of walnut and cocobolo. The top will consist of a glue up of the two woods. What glue should I use for the glue up since cocobolo is very oily? And what sort of finish would you recommend for this application? Thanks again and take care! Ryan of Mountain Custom Woodworks…

Woodshop Life Podcast

29 weeks ago57:40

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57:40

Brians Questions: I craft Shaker Furniture and then donate it. I am often gluing up tabletops. I have seen many discussions around "how to properly joint" the edges of a-joining boards. Am typically using plain sawn cherry. After rough dimensioning, jointing, then planing the individual pieces, and arranging the pieces so they look nice, and hopefully having the grain run the same way (I finish the tops with a smoothing plane), it comes time to joint those edges that are to be glued. There in lies the question....does one 1) rip them on a table saw, or 2) joint the edges such that there is a slight bow to allow compression in the center, or 3) take the pair of boards to be glued and joint them together in a book match style. I usually do 3) I then clamp them using footed bar clamps and cawls over the top. How do you all handle this part of the process. 1), 2),3)....something else?? Secondly, I use hide glue to glue the joinery, but have had trouble using it for table top gluing up table tops --not enough open time...use titebond instead....have you had success in using hide glue for tabletop glue up?? thank you, John Hi, I am a hobbyist woodworker who uses a mix of hand tools and power tools. I see a lot of people nowadays using track saws where I would normally use my table saw or my circular saw with a guide. What am I missing with the track saw trend? Won’t a simple plywood guide and cheap circular saw do the exact same thing as a track saw? Thanks Adam Guys Questions: Hi, I enjoy the podcast, it is favorite woodworking podcast where you get right to the point and answer real questions without a lot of wasted time. Keep it up! I am currently working on a fairly large cabinet & desk built-in. It will be an "L" shape, run along one wall for about 18 feet, and then wrap around and extend out about 6 feet, with the corner being the desk section. I've already completed the base cabinets, so the next step will be the desktop, followed by all the shelving. My question is about the desktop(26in deep). My plan was to build this in 6 foot sections, which I would then join to span the whole wall. I've been going back and forth over whether I build this out of solid wood(thinking 8/4 rough sawn which I would mill down to maybe 1-1/2in), or using veneers. I planned to join each section using a Lamello Zeta P2. I have access to the tools(6cfm pump from Veneer Systems) to do either method, but am not sure if one is really much better. I'be been leaning towards solid wood(Walnut) as I have that on hand, but not sure if that's more of me shying away from using veneers as I don't have a lot of experience on bigger projects. This is for my home so may be an opportunity to get more practice using veneers without worry of it being a customer piece. I'm interested in what you would recommend. Thanks! Frank Also a dummy, thank you Bob for opening the can of worms. Who cares if it is 1/4 sawn or 1/64th sawn? When is it important to know? If riff sucks…then why use it or if plane is plain to unstable to use why use it etc. Strengths and weaknesses for price versus application might be interesting to discuss, especially if opinions can vary. What is the wheelhouse for the different boards? I imagine it’s a combo of beauty, price and stability. Can you guys flesh out this conversation a bit? Benjamin Huys Questions I use Kreg work bench system so my benches are mostly straight and strong with the factors I stated above. I also am lazy or forgetful about putting down paper before glue ups. replacing the top of the work bench I have considered finishing it with thin layer or epoxy to allow a non-sticky surface for the wood glue or finishes I use. I am also going to make match fit dove tail clamp system ( would finish with epoxy then have the cnc redue the job to clean the channels ) maybe also with dog hole. is the epoxy finish a good way to make a more permeant bench top ? should I just lay down plywood top and replace when needed? Am considering ordering a butcher block top to make the bench so it looks nice and is more lasting. bench is 44 square and supported by wood beams in the center so it doesn't dip. Thanks folks Paul Oki Mitch Crafts Okinawa Japan Hi, thanks for answering a couple of my questions in the past. I have another one now about using loose tenon joinery to glue up boards to make a panel, such as a tabletop. One feature of a Domino or a biscuit joiner is that they reference off of a face of the board, assuring a perfectly flush (or close enough) show surface. I don’t own a Domino, but I have a biscuit joiner and a dowelling jig. I would like to use dowels on occasion, but I only have a simple dowelling jig that is of the self-centering type. If all my boards are of the exact same thickness then this in theory should give good results too, but sometimes I am using 3/4” boards right from the lumber yard that I have edge jointed but have not milled to a common thickness, since I don’t want to go any thinner than the 3/4”. So the thicknesses might be off by small amounts. So in light of this, I was thinking that I should upgrade to a higher end dowelling jig, one that references off of a face surface. Does this seem like a worthwhile idea? If so, are there certain other features I should look for in a product, and do you have specific product recommendations that you can make? Thanks. Steve…

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