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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the women who paved the way for the superstars of the 90s and 00s. Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Gullich, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, and more. Like Todd Skinner always said, ”never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the women who paved the way for the superstars of the 90s and 00s. Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Gullich, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, and more. Like Todd Skinner always said, ”never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
After establishing Punks in the Gym, the first 14a (8b+), Wolfgang Güllich was looking for a change. First he accepted an invitation to a competition in Bardonecchia, Italy. It left a bad taste in his mouth. Over the next year, after doing a few more hard routes, he experimented with bold climbing on gritstone and free soloing, culminating in his free solo of Separate Reality in Yosemite. After that, he established his second 14a, Wallstreet, in the Frankenjura. Being in his home area, this one was special. So when someone enlarged the crux pocket, he took it personally. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Back To The Regular Season Plus An Announcement 6:06
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThanks for listening. We're back next week with our regular season. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Rosie Andrews on No Spare Rib and Women in Climbing From the 80s to Today 53:14
53:14 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked53:14
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedOver 40 years ago, Mountain Magazine published an article by Rosie Andrews called No Spare Rib. Filled with photos of strong women and asserting that women would eventually climb at the highest levels while explaining why they were behind in the 80s, it did two things: inspired some and ruffled the feathers of others. Today, women like Brooke Raboutou, Katie Lamb, Babsi Zangerl and Janja Garnbret are proving Rosie right. In this episode we go back to the 80s and discuss The Gunks, climbing Right Wall with Jill Lawrence, the other leading women of the era, and of course, we dig deep into No Spare Rib. We finish with Rosie setting the record straight on an old Supertopo thread. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Louise Shepherd on Her Female Climbing Role Models and Connecting With Other Women in the 80's 42:55
42:55 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked42:55
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedLouise Shepherd was and is a juggernaut for women’s climbing, particularly in Australia, where she did for climbing what Lynn Hill did in the US - make it impossible to ignore that women are excellent at this. And this was before everybody got the news from everywhere immediately - so, yes, there needed to be a palpable example in all of the climbing hotspots. And there was. Jill Lawrence in the UK, Catherine Destivelle in France, Christine Gambert, though French, was often climbing in Germany, Lynn Hill in the US, and of course, Louise Shepherd in Australia. Louise and I only had a short time to chat, so I came in researched and ready, and trying to fill some of the gaps that I hadn’t been able to fill through my reading, and in turn, got some great stories from Louise about climbing with the other women we’ve been discussing. Save Arapiles Climbing Petition: https://www.change.org/p/save-natimuk-stop-the-rock-climbing-ban-at-the-famous-mt-arapiles Save Arapiles Climbing Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_bYfeWq_Nw Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Alison Osius on The Women of Climbing and Media in the 80s 1:30:09
1:30:09 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:30:09
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedAlison Osius is easily one of the most impactful people in climbing media. She helped to shape how so many climbers learned more about and engaged with the sport from the 80s into the 20s. She’s a former editor at Climbing, Rock and Ice and Outside, the first woman president of the American Alpine Club, wrote Second Ascent: The Story of Hugh Herr and has received the AAC Literary Award. She's a climbing legend. In this episode we discuss how she discovered climbing through journalism, her first times meeting the other top women of the 80s, and some of the first big competitions. We also get Alison's side of the rivalry with Bobbi Bensman that we heard about last season, and of course, because she's a media legend, I ask her theorize about the answers to impossible to answer questions. We start the conversation talking about a big event that had just happened before we recorded. Power Company Climbing Anniversary Sale! Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Lynn Hill on the Women of the 80s, Who Inspired Her and Who Is Inspiring Her Now 1:16:44
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedLynn Hill is THE legend, and quite possibly the most impactful climber of all time. I could make a case that Lynn's free ascent in a day of The Nose is the greatest climbing achievement of all time. But Lynn and I aren't talking about Lynn. We're talking about the other women of the 80s: the women she climbed with, competed against and was inspired by. We also get into who is inspiring her now. More from Lynn at her website. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Amy Skinner on Las Vegas Climbing in the 80s and the Importance of Great Female Partners 1:33:54
1:33:54 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:33:54
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedToday I sit down with my good friend Amy Skinner - who, in the early 80s in Las Vegas, sort of stumbled into the scene that would eventually be called sport climbing. We discuss that movement, where she first encountered other female climbers, who her favorite female climbing partners have been, and more. Like many of the women who have been mentioned in this series, Amy is still involved in the climbing community, but has also become a pillar in her greater community. A business owner, an advocate, a supporter, and a friend. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Women Climbers of the 80s Part 3: Unique Strengths 36:56
36:56 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked36:56
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedIn Part 3 of our series on female climbers of the 1980s, we wrap up the decade with difficulty reaching new heights. We see a smart pattern start to emerge at the top of the pack as women realize how to leverage their unique strengths, and in doing so, they prove themselves with resounding success at the most futuristic crag in the world - Buoux. In this episode we discuss Christine Gambert, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, Isabelle Pattisiere, as well as many women who were involved in the business and culture of climbing. Listen to the Audio Stories from The Pinnacle Club. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Women Climbers of the 80s Part 2: Power In Numbers 35:20
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedIn Part 2 of our series on women climbers of the 1980s, we focus on the middle of the decade, when difficulty soared. We take a closer look at the 1984 International Ladies Meet hosted by The Pinnacle Club in North Wales, how it connects to the women who were at the forefront of sport climbing a year later, and how standards began to skyrocket. We wrap up in Australia where Nyrie Dodd is the first to finish an often tried project. In this episode we discuss Jill Lawrence, Gill Price, Catherine Destivelle, Christine Gambert, Lynn Hill, Isabelle Pattisiere, Luisa Iovane and more. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Women Climbers of the 80s Part 1: It Wasn't Because They Weren't There 43:15
43:15 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked43:15
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThe history of women in climbing, in it’s written form, is woefully incomplete. In this, the first of a multi-part series, we attempt to correct some of these oversights by taking a look at not only the early 80s, but the years and accomplishments that laid the foundation for the women of the 80s. In this episode, we discuss Bev Johnson, Sibylle Hechtel, Diana Hunter, Coral Bowman, Beth Bennett, Barbara Devine, Louise Shepherd, Catherine Destivelle, Jill Lawrence, Mari Gingery, Lynn Hill and more. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
Our main sponsor this season, Rab, is giving away three of their Ascendor Light Hoodies, mens or womens, any color in stock. To enter, go to https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub Learn more about Rab at https://rab.equipment/us/
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
We're taking a short break because we want to make sure that we don't miss the important contributions from the women climbers of the 80's who were pushing things forward. We'll be back soon! In the meantime, there are a bunch of free bonus episodes in our Patreon, The Secret Stoners Club!
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Jeff Smoot on John Bachar, Peter Croft and the Shift in Climbing in the 80's 57:55
57:55 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked57:55
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedBecause this season is focused on the 1980’s, and we are talking about the two best free soloists of their generations, Peter Croft and John Bachar, there is a Venn Diagram that puts today’s guest squarely in the center: Jeff Smoot . In Jeff’s book Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change and the Race for 5.14 , he tells the tale of the beginnings of sport climbing in the U.S. - of Alan Watts and Todd Skinner - tales that John Bachar often plays the antagonist for. His most recent book, All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing , takes a look at, among others, Bachar and Croft. And Jeff was there for much of it. As I’ve been doing research, his name has come up over and over again as the author of key articles. I had to talk to him. No brainer. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. Enter to win a Ladies Weekend Out Scholarship from Rab! ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 Alex Honnold on Peter Croft, John Bachar, Free-Soloing and Climbing Big Yosemite Linkups 52:12
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedDoes Alex Honnold need an introduction? No, of course he doesn’t. But he was particularly suited for this conversation about Bachar and Croft for several reasons: #1, Alex is a student of history. He cares about this stuff. If you haven’t listened to his Climbing Gold podcast, you should. I highly recommend the Dope Lake series - it’s a 5 part series about the 1976 plane crash in the Yosemite high country - a plane that was carrying 4 million dollars worth of marijuana. Go listen. #2, he’s the obvious torch bearer for what these guys did - the soloing, yes, but also the pushing of Valley standards and the furthering of the conversation. And #3, because as much as I want these stories to be larger than life, I also wanted them to be rooted in a realistic look at what we can learn. And if there’s anyone who can just be logical, it’s Alex Honnold. In this episode we get into an interesting progression that Alex didn’t even realize he was part of, meeting your heroes, mythologizing, big link ups, soloing, and what John Bachar and Peter Croft mean for climbing and for Alex personally. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. Enter to win a Ladies Weekend Out Scholarship from Rab! ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Cover photo of Alex by Christopher Michel…
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Written in Stone: Climbing History
1 John Bachar Chooses Peter Croft For a New Game 47:34
47:34 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked47:34
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedIt was 1986, over halfway through a decade that had brought turbulent change to climbing, and it was clear to John Bachar that even in Yosemite - hallowed ground as far as he was concerned - ethics were shifting. Sure, people still traveled here to do the big walls and to climb some of the classics, but the world knew that Yosemite and the once mighty best climbers in the world who called Camp 4 home, were now WAY behind. But John Bachar had an idea of how he could get this train back on track. It wasn’t the first time he’d had to do this, and he knew exactly who he’d ask for help. This is the story of the John and the Bachar-Yerian, Peter Croft and the University Wall, and the first one day link-up ascent of El Cap and Half Dome. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. Enter to win a Ladies Weekend Out Scholarship from Rab! ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . This episode is supported by Tension Climbing . Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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