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Sends And Suffers

Mario Stanley | Plug Tone Audio

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Join Mario Stanley as he interviews the adventurous people that live in our adventure community. Explore the stories of their sending and suffering that has brought them to where they are today.
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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the ...
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The Average Climber Podcast

Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast

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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
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The American Climbing Project

Plug Tone Audio | Devin Dabney

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The American Climbing Project is a podcast mixtape focused on all your social climbing needs, and then some. It addresses various topics in climbing, with an intentional deviation from performance and training. The focuses will change, but will always center on vulnerability, candid conversation, and a desire to reflect the voice of everyday climbers.
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Your Healing Nature features Black Indigenous People of Color (BIPOC) who are reclaiming the outdoors to heal individual and/or collective trauma. The guest storytellers on this podcast include sponsored athletes, conservationists, outdoor educators, founders of for- and non-profits, urban farmers, creatives and so much more. These innovative, heart-centered individuals redefine the outdoors, the outside, in a way that diverges from what mainstream America has thought of as “the great outdoo ...
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The way you eat can make or break your outdoor climbing day. In this episode, we're explaining the nutrition strategies that will help you have high energy, enjoyable days at the crag. If you're done with crashing three routes in, this episode is for you. RESOURCES: Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up fo…
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If you've ever thought to yourself, "damn it feels like I can climb all the V3s in my gym SO FAST, but as soon as I step up to a V4 or V5 I can't even do a single move", this episode is for you. Spoiler alert: what you THINK is your problem, probably isn't what you need to focus on. RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goo…
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In this episode you’ll hear an excerpt from my conversation with Amruta Wyssman, who goes by Amy. She started bouldering in 2018, and by 2021 she was helping to start the Swiss Paraclimbing team. Before climbing, Amy was into all kinds of snow sports. So, we talked about the similarities between different outdoor sports, like climbing, snowboarding…
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Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of. In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner,…
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There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER Y…
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"That has way too much sodium!" "Can you believe how much salt is in that?" If you've ever been to a family gathering in America, you know that SOMEONE is complaining about how they've got to watch their sodium intake. But is it really that bad for you? And don't we need salt to stay hydrated? If you feel dazed and confused about salt - you aren't …
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you ha…
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Caitlin goes to war with a yoga studio and the girls discuss why she did it. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map IMPORTANT LINKS: 1. Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submit…
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You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you j…
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BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Good Spray Custom Plan. Custom plan enrollment opens May 20, 2024 www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans Email …
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The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about to tell you how to do just that. Learn about Good Spray Custom Plans: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans …
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratt…
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In this episode, we hear from Jared Lenahan, a US Navy Veteran. He was a combat medic for the Marine Corps known as a Fleet Marine Force Corpsman. After an accident overseas in 2014, he found himself going from climber to paraclimber. He used adaptive climbing as an integral part of his recovery and has competed as a US Paraclimbing Team Athlete fo…
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Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to ✅ have the energy to FOCUS when you show up to train In this episode, we're reviewing common time management pitfalls tha…
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Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering - a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing - ramping back into climbing post-ski season - combining climbing + running - getting into bouldering as a sport climber and more! MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Video - training as a multi-sport athlete https://youtu.…
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Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down - the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit - the difference between strength and power - how to avoid common power development pitfalls If you've ever complained about your power or contact strength - this episode is for you…
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Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this …
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In this episode we're covering - the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one - the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best efforts MEGABETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track G…
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Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. …
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Join us in a conversation with Houston-based coach, Dru Stulb, in this episode of Sends and Suffers. Host Mario Stanley and Dru discuss climbing evolution, coaching, and personal growth. Learn about Dru's journey from enthusiast to coach, the role of climbing coaches, and their impact on the sport. Discover the joys of coaching, challenges faced, a…
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Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impa…
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Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over …
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Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for climbing, she’s also a crusher. She was the 5th woman to to climb 8c and in 2013, at 42 years old, climbed her first 8c+, a route she bolted called Potemkin. In this episode, Eva and Kris discuss the state o…
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Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing. He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises fed…
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Welcome to this special episode of the Sends and Suffers podcast. Join host Mario Stanley as he engages with the passionate climbers and industry experts at the Indoor Climbing Expo. Hear the thrilling stories of their experiences, organizations, and their substantial roles in shaping and supporting diverse climbing communities.…
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Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu first tied in as the 80’s were changing into the 90’s, after seeing a documentary showing two women climbing in the Verdon. Within those first few months of Josune learning to climb, Lynn Hill did the first 14a ever climbed by a woman. By the middle of the 90’s Josune became the 5th woman to equal the feat, which …
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Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely... Read the rest on the blo…
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We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A. In this episode, we discuss: - the truth about collagen research - what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for - the need-to-knows of leveraging creatine supplementation MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: Get…
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Tanner is a Single Pitch Instructor certified by the AMGA, American Mountain Guides Association. He currently works as a behavioral interventionist and community coach for a Colorado based group called, "REVEL" where he leads climbing and rafting trips for people with autism. He also teaches clinics at festivals like the annual Adaptive Climbing Fe…
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Chris Schulte is a boulderer who is obsessed with the lines and shapes of climbing. He fell in love with Fontainebleau many years ago based on a photo of Fred Nicole climbing Karma and has cultivated a relationship with the forest and climbed many life-list boulders there. In this episode, Kris asks Chris to describe the forest in his poetic way, a…
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For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "make you fat". On this podcast, we like to cut through that noise. And Caitlin has TWO amazing new resourc…
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Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that mi…
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Throughout the 90s, Catherine Miquel was the undisputed queen of bouldering. Surprised you haven’t heard her name? I was too, but we aren’t alone. Not many of the people I’ve talked to know of her or her incredible resume. Climbing in Fontainebleau, she entered the decade as the only woman to climb V8, and then it was off to the races. Again and ag…
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If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing. But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hindering their learning. So in this episode we're giving you our top tips for being the best climbing mentor …
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Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet. In this episode, we…
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Josie McKee is a climbing guide, former YOSAR member, all-around big wall super badass and a climbing coach through her company Mind Athlete. She’s climbed El Cap over 20 times, set several speed records, has free climbed damn near every Valley classic, and her Yosemite resume rivals just about anyone’s. In this episode, Josie walks Kris through ea…
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If you were following Chris Kalous and The Enormocast in the early days, then you are well aware that he’s climbed Freerider. And if you follow his new show, The Runout, you know how interested he is in the history of one specific pitch of The Free Salathe - Pitch 19 - the pitch that Alex Huber subverted by climbing the Monster Offwidth, thus layin…
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For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way. In this episod…
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Food is food, right? Sure. But before you go jumping into drinking tart cherry juice and dry scooping creatine - let's make sure you have your base nutrition covered. In this episode we're diving into ✅ the difference between basic and sports nutrition (and why you should care) ✅ pitfalls climbers make when over-prioritizing sports nutrition ✅ low …
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Pete Woods walks you through the thrilling world of climbing. A highly respected ESPN climbing broadcaster and experienced youth coach, Pete provides a fascinating glimpse into his climbing journey's exhilarating heights and challenging lows. Pete shares his early days of climbing passion that fueled him to coach young climbers. Pete's unwavering e…
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In 1998, Alex and Thomas Huber climbed the first ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in just over 15 hours. Their climb ushered in a new era of big wall free climbing, and there’s no question it was a hugely important moment in climbing history. But the way we credit it, most often simply to Alex Huber, ignores the rich history of the route. The Hube…
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We all know that veggies are good for you, and that eating enough of them is important for your health and wellbeing. So why is it so hard to eat enough of them? In this episode we cover ✅ why eating vegetables is important ✅ how to figure out what you actually like ✅ strategies for eating more of them (that won't make you miserable) MEGA BETA BAG:…
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Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to fin…
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Today, we're featuring a great conversation between our friend Ryan Devlin, host and creator of the Struggle Climbing Show and member of the Plug Tone Collective, and Jordan Cannon. In this bonus episode, Jordan takes us on the unbelievable adventure of tackling one of the toughest high-altitude big wall ascents in the world, the Cowboy Direct rout…
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Dr. Parker Farabee is a man of many talents - climbing, ultra-running, and being a kick-ass physical therapist, specializing in outdoor athletes as well as support for athletes with neurological conditions. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com In this episode we cover - the difference between overtraining and under-recovering (they aren't the same!) …
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A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong. In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer str…
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In his book, Beyond the Summit, Todd Skinner wrote, “Mike Lilygren had a schoolboy face and Dennis the Menace hair, an irritatingly endless sense of humor, and a tinkerer’s mind for detail. He would turn into “the closer” on the expedition, the one who kept getting stronger as the burden increased, the keystone that bridged the way to the summit.” …
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To kick off this special collaborative podcast project, we’ve got a conversation with two undeniable pillars of the adaptive climbing community, Ronnie Dickson, and Maureen, better known as Mo, Beck. We're talking about the annual Adaptive Climbers Festival. The festival was started by a whole rowdy crew of climbers and allies -- Ronnie and Mo are …
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