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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the wo ...
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The Average Climber Podcast

Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast

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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
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Sends And Suffers

Mario Stanley | Plug Tone Audio

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Welcome to Sends and Suffers—the podcast where the grit of the climb meets the story’s soul. I’m your host, Mario Stanley, coming at you from Texas. The road is rough, but every twist has a purpose. We’re diving into triumph, failure, and hard-earned wisdom. Where every guest brings tales from the highest sends to the toughest struggles. So, saddle up—because this ride’s as wild and untamed as the host, the guest, and the stories you’re about to hear.
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The American Climbing Project

Plug Tone Audio | Devin Dabney

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The American Climbing Project is a podcast mixtape focused on all your social climbing needs, and then some. It addresses various topics in climbing, with an intentional deviation from performance and training. The focuses will change, but will always center on vulnerability, candid conversation, and a desire to reflect the voice of everyday climbers.
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Your Healing Nature features Black Indigenous People of Color (BIPOC) who are reclaiming the outdoors to heal individual and/or collective trauma. The guest storytellers on this podcast include sponsored athletes, conservationists, outdoor educators, founders of for- and non-profits, urban farmers, creatives and so much more. These innovative, heart-centered individuals redefine the outdoors, the outside, in a way that diverges from what mainstream America has thought of as “the great outdoo ...
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show series
 
With the limitless options for how you can climb something, it's understandable that you might be looking over your shoulder every now and again for beta that feels better. So how do you decide if you need to ditch your beta for an upgrade, or stick with it and try harder? We're serving up 6 tips to help clear that up. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAI…
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In Part 2 of our series on women climbers of the 1980s, we focus on the middle of the decade, when difficulty soared. We take a closer look at the 1984 International Ladies Meet hosted by The Pinnacle Club in North Wales, how it connects to the women who were at the forefront of sport climbing a year later, and how standards began to skyrocket. We …
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In this snack break, we're talking about - you guessed it: SNACKS. Our top 10 favorite snacks to eat outside and why. If you're looking for some inspo for your next trip to the grocery store, look no further - we've got you covered. Register now for THE CREW! Last day to enroll is 4/11/25. LAUREN LINKS: 1. Get on Lauren's newsletter for a chance at…
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The history of women in climbing, in it’s written form, is woefully incomplete. In this, the first of a multi-part series, we attempt to correct some of these oversights by taking a look at not only the early 80s, but the years and accomplishments that laid the foundation for the women of the 80s. In this episode, we discuss Bev Johnson, Sibylle He…
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Today we have a big, bad listener Q&A episode covering topics like: - how to start from square one when it comes to fear management - what to do if you're always starving when you climb outside - the deal with caloric deficits + climbing training - how to get an effective route session done in 90 minutes or less - preventing burnout and MORE. Thank…
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If you feel as stiff as a board and it sucks to walk down the stairs, we need to talk. In this episode we're tackling the topic of delayed onset muscle soreness. How to prevent it and what to do if you're experiencing it. HINT: managing and preventing DOMS may require tweaks to your training and nutrition. Tune in! RPE Training: https://youtu.be/yZ…
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Should we be sharing Lauren's signature coaching framework on air for all to hear? Top chefs would tell us to keep the secret recipe under-wraps. But, eh, we aren't the type to gate keep. If you've ever felt overwhelmed, unsure, or confused about decisions in your programming - this episode is for you. You're about to learn a process that will take…
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If we could wave a magic wand and give every climber three nutrition skills - this is what we'd pick. Tune in to hear all about them. Do you have these skills, or if could you use a tune up? CAITLIN LINKS: 1. Get on the Resource Vault NOW 2. Join Caitlin's Newsletter LAUREN LINKS: 1. LAUREN'S SECRET LIST OF MYSTERY AND RIDDLES 2. Get on Lauren's ne…
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Because this season is focused on the 1980’s, and we are talking about the two best free soloists of their generations, Peter Croft and John Bachar, there is a Venn Diagram that puts today’s guest squarely in the center: Jeff Smoot. In Jeff’s book Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change and the Race for 5.14, he tells the tale of the beginnings of sport cli…
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Does Alex Honnold need an introduction? No, of course he doesn’t. But he was particularly suited for this conversation about Bachar and Croft for several reasons: #1, Alex is a student of history. He cares about this stuff. If you haven’t listened to his Climbing Gold podcast, you should. I highly recommend the Dope Lake series - it’s a 5 part seri…
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When you start training - you expect to see shifts in the weights you can lift, what edge you can hang on, and the amount that you can climb. Maybe you even see progress in how quickly you can climb certain grades. But there are some other changes you might notice too - in your energy levels, your appetite, and in your body itself. In this episode,…
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It was 1986, over halfway through a decade that had brought turbulent change to climbing, and it was clear to John Bachar that even in Yosemite - hallowed ground as far as he was concerned - ethics were shifting. Sure, people still traveled here to do the big walls and to climb some of the classics, but the world knew that Yosemite and the once mig…
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In terms of things climbers say they "should" be doing - mobility work is top of mind. If you've been pondering becoming someone who stretches regularly - for your climbing or your general wellbeing, these five tips are guaranteed to help you develop a focused, effective stretching practice. Resources Tom Merrick's YouTube Channel Mercedes Pollmeie…
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Shortly after my own trip to the Grampians and Araps, where I played briefly on Punks in the Gym, just to give it, as Ben Cossey would say, a tummy rub, I went back to the Blue Mountains where I met a bunch of Australian mega-crushers. One of those crushers was Andrea Hah. And because she was the first Australian woman to climb Punks in the Gym, an…
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As I was researching Wolfgang, I would regularly come across candid photos taken inside the house he shared with Kurt Albert, and of course I read every story about Wolfgang I could find. In those photos and those stories, I often came across an American name - Jesse Guthrie. I had to try to find him and get him on the show. He was one of the peopl…
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training. This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. ________________…
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We don't want to ruffle your feathers, but we do want you to get better at climbing, improve your nutrition, and have an enjoyable time while you do it. And if that takes some feather ruffling, then... *Boxing announcer voice* 📣 LET'S GET READY TO RUFFLLLLLEEEEEE In this episode we’re taking you through the top 6 toughest pills to swallow in your c…
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Because the history of the Frankenjura can’t be told without Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Gullich, both of whom we lost too soon, I wanted to talk to someone rooted in that community to try and get an understanding of how their legacy looks. For me, the obvious choice was Hannes Huch. He’s a photographer and artist who balances a modern aesthetic with …
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There’s really no debate. In the pantheon of Wolfgang Gullich frothers, there is no person who is as much a frother as Australian superstar Ben Cossey. In May of 2024, Ben made the first ascent of a long-standing project at Mt. Arapiles in Australia, Lightweight Baby, finally finishing what became the hardest pitch in the area - and within sight of…
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If you ask Chat GPT for nutrition advice - will you get the guidance you need? Or are you entering the danger zone. This week, Caitlin is reviewing a climbing focused nutrition plan from Chat GPT. Come for Caitlin's verdict, stay for the actionable tips (and Lauren's relentless razzing of our proverbial AI overlords). CAITLIN LINKS: 1. Apply For Ca…
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first st…
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From the early to mid 1980's, Wolfgang Gullich was steadily discovering his own power. Spurred on by American and British climbers coming to the Frankenjura and establishing the hardest routes, he tapped into a part of himself that he rarely showed. With that competetive side on display, he went to America to do the hardest routes there, returned h…
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Everyone loves to talk about macros - so we decided it was high time the micronutrients get some love. In this episode we're teaching you about the color of food and the specific nutritional function of each color of the rainbow. If you know you need to get more fruits and veggies in (but you aren't exactly sure how or why) - this is the perfect li…
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate t…
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While we're working hard on the next episode, an update on some changes to the remainder of the season. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. This episode is supported by Tension Climb…
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This week we decided to figure out if Lauren is going to be out of a job soon. We asked Chat GPT to write us a training program - specifically focusing on finger strength and endurance training. Will coaches be ousted by ChatGPT? Or will humanity reign supreme? Tune in to find out and get our thought's on Chat GPT's training expertise. LAUREN LINKS…
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate…
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Andy Salo and Whitney Boland are modern day Gunks legends. Andy has FA’d some of the hardest routes in the area and co-written the brilliant guidebooks to the area. Whitney moved to the area and gained near instant local status, eventually writing the Flashback series about Gunks legends, which you can find both in Andy’s guidebooks and on the Rock…
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During our holiday hiatus - we got a question that really stuck out to us. "It feels like my climbing partners don't always fit with the way I want to approach climbing. How do I find the right partners for me?" We took that question and ran with it. In this episode we're talking partnerships vs. friendships, what to look for in a climbing partner,…
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Russ Clune is a Legend. I once introduced him as climbing's Forrest Gump, because since the 1980's he's been there for many of climbing's most impactful moments. A Gunks local who has traveled widely to climb on every type of rock, in every style imaginable, he's a living thread from before sport climbing to now, and if you're ever lucky enough to …
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sur…
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In 1983, after years of climbing on Yosemite's granite cracks with John Long and the Stonemasters, Lynn Hill went on a roadtrip. First to Arizona, then to Colorado and finally Red Rock, outside of Las Vegas. While on the road, she and Long established some of the most classic routes in the country. After a brief foray into Hollywood stunts, Lynn tr…
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Lauren here. I'm writing a special note about my dear friend and co-host, Caitlin. I'm so proud to call this woman my friend and I am THRILLED for the direction she is taking things. It takes so many guts to make changes to your business and I'm so excited for what's to come. Tune in to find out about Caitlin's BIG REVEAL. CAITLIN LINKS: 1. Apply F…
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Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is …
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Many climbers put Jerry Moffatt’s book, Revelations, on the top of their list. This is in no small part due to the work of Niall Grimes, who co-wrote the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize Winner. Niall is an Irish climbing legend who lives in Sheffield, and the host of the hilarious, story filled Jam Crack Climbing Podcast. In this episode w…
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Ask and you shall receive. In this episode we're answering questions submitted by climbers just like you. We're talking.... 👉🏻 what to do if you show up to the gym and you feel like TRASH 👉🏻 the 411 on saturated fats (are they EVIL!?) 👉🏻 finding your balance when it comes to slab climbing 👉🏻 a debate on skittles AND MORE. Lots of ground covered in …
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In 1983, one climber was more dominant than any other: Jerry Moffatt. Filled with confidence, he traveled the world not only to quickly repeat the hardest routes, but to put up his own routes - often the hardest in the country. A trip to the US let the world know that he had arrived, but it was a trip to Germany with one of the brightest German sta…
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There’s nobody better than Bill Ramsey to discuss the impact that Alan Watts had on climbing. Not only is he a philosophy professor, but he was born in the same hospital as Alan, just a few hours later. Their fathers climbed together at Smith Rock, their mothers shared a recovery room, and together they found a love of climbing that helped bring Sm…
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In early 1983, in a small backwater area in Oregon with less than stellar rock, Smith Rock, sport climbing history was quietly being made. Alan Watts had all but climbed out the cracks in the area and had turned his attention to the blank faces and lasercut aretes. He would have to bend the rules to get it done, but with nobody around to tell him o…
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Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for 90’s climbing history, The 9th Grade. David’s previous book, co-written with Jibe Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970’s and early to mid 1980’s. They discuss the influence of…
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We're taking a little break, but don't worry - we'll be back on January 9th. In the meantime, make sure to fill out this short survey and let us know what you want to hear on the show in 2025. We can't wait to hear from you! ❤️ https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform…
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Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is …
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This is one of the MOST requested episode topics and we are finally getting it done: an episode specifically for the indoor focused climber. Whether you're just gym-bound for the winter or indoor climbing is your main gig, this episode is for you. RESOURCES MENTIONED: THE HARD TRUTH BY KRIS HAMPTON Limit bouldering mini course LAUREN LINKS: 1. Join…
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There is no icon of 1980's climbing with the starpower of Patrick Edlinger. Known as Le Blonde, it's estimated that by the mid 1990's, Edlinger was responsible for inspiring 80% of France's climbers to join the sport. Not only was he one of the first to embrace sport climbing, he defined the style and movement of the era. But the life of the rock s…
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Ever look at videos of yourself climbing and feel unsure about what to do with it? Whether you're trying to figure out why you keep falling on a certain move, or you simply want to climb something better - improving your video review skills will be a big help. So in this episode, we're giving you three things to do when you check out your climbing …
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