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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35
1:08:56
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About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum …
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
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About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our finge…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling
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1:19:55
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About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating
1:09:42
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About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her so…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach
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59:29
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About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health
1:12:50
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About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Bet…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing
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About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries
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Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so …
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
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About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power dif…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition
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About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition Needs
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59:39
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About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and beca…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
1:21:13
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I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
1:36:29
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About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own exp…
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break
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I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
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In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
1:21:42
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I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
1:18:12
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In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
1:26:15
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I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
1:17:53
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Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
1:21:30
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I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
1:17:59
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I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
1:19:47
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In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
1:11:32
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Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
1:04:57
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Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
1:15:27
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Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
1:08:06
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Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
1:14:34
1:14:34
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I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus
1:40:00
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Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
1:20:26
1:20:26
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Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
1:09:45
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I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.By Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
1:07:38
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I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
1:22:42
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I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
1:10:25
1:10:25
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I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
1:22:43
1:22:43
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In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
1:27:46
1:27:46
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I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
1:07:08
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I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
1:11:05
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Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
1:12:21
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Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.By trainingbeta podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
1:14:38
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I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
1:10:07
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Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
1:10:08
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Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
1:14:53
1:14:53
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In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
1:15:37
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In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.By TrainingBeta, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
1:01:01
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In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
1:17:41
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In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
1:12:02
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In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
1:07:58
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In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.By Neely Quinn, TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
1:43:04
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1:43:04
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
1:09:29
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In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
1:32:12
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In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.By The TrainingBeta Podcast
