Best Rockclimbingtraining Podcasts (2022)

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery 1:19:38

1d ago1:19:38

1:19:38

TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery Lucie Hanes is a 27-year-old climbing coach out of Eagle, Colorado, who is pursuing her Master’s of Science in Applied Sports Psychology. I met Lucie in the Wicked Cave in Rifle last summer, and the next time I heard from her was when she reached out via email in response to …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays 51:49

30d ago51:49

51:49

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development 1:06:26

1M ago1:06:26

1:06:26

Matt Samet is the editor of Climbing Magazine, the author of several books, a prolific route developer, and a very strong and dedicated climber. He’s also a friend of mine and someone I respect a lot, so I’ve been wanting to interview him for a while. He’s a father of 3, works full-time, and just sent a 5.14 project a couple days before his 50th bi…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol 1:03:30

2M ago1:03:30

1:03:30

Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – m…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes 1:06:49

2M ago1:06:49

1:06:49

Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their tr…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why 31:06

3M ago31:06

31:06

TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them properly in your diet to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. Carbs are a tricky topic because we’ve been taught to fear and hate them, even th…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger 1:16:49

3M ago1:16:49

1:16:49

How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13’s, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job 1:09:50

3M ago1:09:50

1:09:50

TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job Brian Lichtenheld is one of my close friends and one of my favorite climbing partners. I asked him to be on the show because I don’t know another non-professional climber who is more psyched on climbing, and I wanted to share his infectious positive attitude with you…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson 1:21:25

3M ago1:21:25

1:21:25

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain fas…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus 55:42

4M ago55:42

55:42

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking 4 new clients, so if you’d like …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing 1:14:25

4M ago1:14:25

1:14:25

I’m Taking New Nutrition Clients I’m currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you’re looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you’d like help with, I’m here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here. About Laura Schmidt My original idea for this podcast was to have …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session 1:06:54

4M ago1:06:54

1:06:54

New Gymnastics Rings Workshop with Coach Alex Stiger Do you want to know more about using the gymnastics rings as a training tool for climbing? On Tuesday, October 6th at 6-7:30pm MDT, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute workshop where you’ll learn the key considerations for using gynmastics rings in your trainin…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers 1:16:25

5M ago1:16:25

1:16:25

About Lor Sabourin In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior’s Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels. Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor. I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt 1:47:28

5M ago1:47:28

1:47:28

I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing 1:15:17

5M ago1:15:17

1:15:17

New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don’t know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you’ll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You’ll Learn… …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why 29:19

5M ago29:19

29:19

Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 174 :: Caroline Treadway - The Film "Light" and Her Own Eating Disorder Struggles 1:27:12

6M ago1:27:12

1:27:12

About Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film “Light” about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A) 35:18

6M ago35:18

35:18

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase 1:01:02

6M ago1:01:02

1:01:02

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program,…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn 59:55

6M ago59:55

59:55

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy 1:01:02

6M ago1:01:02

1:01:02

In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training 1:20:58

7M ago1:20:58

1:20:58

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his lates…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females 59:43

9M ago59:43

59:43

Females in Climbing In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. S…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport 1:11:03

9M ago1:11:03

1:11:03

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a p…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life 1:14:00

10M ago1:14:00

1:14:00

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they a…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering 1:05:27

11M ago1:05:27

1:05:27

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering traini…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind 1:11:13

11M ago1:11:13

1:11:13

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Betwee…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35 1:08:56

12M ago1:08:56

1:08:56

About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers 56:23

1y ago56:23

56:23

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our finge…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling 1:19:55

1y ago1:19:55

1:19:55

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating 1:09:42

1y ago1:09:42

1:09:42

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her so…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach 59:29

1y ago59:29

59:29

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health 1:12:50

1y ago1:12:50

1:12:50

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Bet…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing 1:07:27

1+ y ago1:07:27

1:07:27

About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries 1:26:52

1+ y ago1:26:52

1:26:52

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so …

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training 58:31

1+ y ago58:31

58:31

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power dif…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition 1:11:52

1+ y ago1:11:52

1:11:52

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition Needs 59:39

1+ y ago59:39

59:39

About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and beca…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing 1:21:13

1+ y ago1:21:13

1:21:13

I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers 1:36:29

1+ y ago1:36:29

1:36:29

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own exp…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break 50:20

1+ y ago50:20

50:20

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers 58:11

1+ y ago58:11

58:11

In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.By The TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond 1:21:42

1+ y ago1:21:42

1:21:42

I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home 1:18:12

2y ago1:18:12

1:18:12

In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19 1:26:15

2y ago1:26:15

1:26:15

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers 1:17:53

2y ago1:17:53

1:17:53

Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training 1:21:30

2y ago1:21:30

1:21:30

I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely 1:17:59

2y ago1:17:59

1:17:59

I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.By The TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing 1:19:47

2y ago1:19:47

1:19:47

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

1
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers 1:11:32

2y ago1:11:32

1:11:32

Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.By TrainingBeta Podcast

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