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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
Welcome to Blister’s weekly climbing podcast. I’m Dave Alie, the climbing editor at Blister, and host of All Things Climbing. Like most climbers, I was immediately smitten by the sport when I first found it. But in the years since, the community and culture the surrounds climbing has proved itself to be as interesting and influential in shaping my life as the actual climbing itself. For so many of us, it’s the reason climbing makes the leap from fun hobby to all-consuming lifestyle obsession ...
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show series
I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.By Neely Quinn.
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.By TrainingBeta Podcast.
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.By TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.By trainingbeta podcast.
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.By TrainingBeta Podcast.
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.By TrainingBeta, Neely Quinn.
We talk to Tommy Caldwell and Access Fund Policy Director, Erik Murdock, to discuss a massive public lands bill that’s moving through congress called the Natural Resources Management Act. We dive into what makes it so important, hear about Tommy’s involvement with the Access Fund, then Erik helps us unpack the Natural Resources Management Act — ...…
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.By Neely Quinn, TrainingBeta Podcast.
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
What’s the biggest environmental impact we have as climbers? It’s easy to be distracted by the obvious stuff: chalk marks, cat holes, bolts. But, as journalist J.B. MacKinnon points out, the reality is much more complicated. Longtime climber J.B. Mackinnon is a contributor to The New Yorker on ecology and consumer issues. He has written several ...…
Erick Davidson makes the best cams that you’ve never heard of — they aren’t sold in stores or online, and Davidson’s company, Merlin Rock Gear, doesn’t even have a website. Erick, a mechanical engineer by day, designs and fabricates large-format cams that are much larger than Black Diamond’s number 6 Camalot, and that cover sizes way beyond wha ...…
Are we headed for a future where The Nose (or other well-traveled walls) are headed for a permit system? We started debating this “what if” scenario almost a year ago, prompted by a conversation about the recently established permit system governing the cables route on Half Dome (the standard “hiking” route to the summit). If crowds grow or res ...…
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
A couple weeks ago, our host Dave Alie and his wife Katie set off to Yosemite with the goal of climbing The Nose, often called The Greatest Rock Climb on Earth. It has a reputation as being accessible to non-elite climbers, yet at least half of the teams who leave the ground end up bailing on Day 1. With the good fortune of a stable forecast, r ...…
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
Justin Brown is a Bend, Oregon local who spends much of his free time climbing around the country and volunteering as a board member of the Smith Rock Group. Between campfires and trail-building, he’s even found himself clipping the chains on routes as hard as 5.14a. He recently ditched his career as a chef to start Rhino Skin Solutions, after ...…
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.By The TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn.
Matt Pincus is a climber’s climber, deeply committed to the sport and the community. He’s also the content manager and head coach / trainer at TrainingBeta, and a Blister alumn. Suffice it to say, when it comes to improving your climbing, the guy knows his stuff. Since the days back when he and I used to trade notes while reviewing gear, he has ...…
I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
Alex Honnold “The Climber” needs absolutely no introduction. He is one of the most talented climbers of his generation, and he is without question the greatest free soloist of all time. And yet, Alex Honnold The Philanthropist” may be even more impressive. Roughly five years ago, Alex teamed up with Maury Birdwell (an extremely talented climber ...…
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.By Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast.
As the number of people that are climbing outside continues to explode, there is increasing pressure on land managers and advocacy groups. This often leads either to “active management” (e.g., restrictions on bolts or route development, etc.) or to complete closure. Does this stuff work? Why do we need these types of interventions? How are the ...…
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.By Neely Quinn.
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.By Neely Quinn.
In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
Nik Berry has propelled himself onto the national climbing scene with a seemingly unending series of hard sends on long routes all over the country. With a taste for big walls and an aptitude for committing routes, Nik has racked up an impressive list of hard, gear-protected test-pieces including the Salathe Wall (ledge-to-ledge variation) and ...…
In this interview I talk with competitive climber and performance coach, Tiffany Melius, about how she trains for World Cup events and the Olympics, and how she coaches people to perform better mentally.By The TrainingBeta Podcast.
Prior to John Sherman’s arrival on the climbing scene back in the time of the Stonemasters, bouldering wasn’t really taken seriously. There was no meaningful, open-ended grading system to compare problems, and Hueco Tanks was just some place in West Texas. John changed all that, and did so before bouldering pads existed. In the years since cast ...…
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Esther Smith, about common ankle and foot issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
The American Alpine Club is one of the oldest climbing institutions in the US. Yet despite its deep past, the AAC takes a forward-looking approach to improving the climbing experience for all on issues like safety, access, and education. This makes the AAC one of the modern climber’s biggest allies. American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers, has cl ...…
Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth, founders of Tension Climbing, are two of climbing’s most dedicated technicians. Not only have they spent years studying the physiological components of “training,” Will and Ben have also devoted themselves to scrutinizing climbing’s more nebulous aspects: movement, personal weaknesses, and so forth. They are famous ...…
In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.By TrainingBeta Podcast.
Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth have spent a lot of time thinking about how climbing works — why this foot and not that one? What precisely makes this move hard? They are extremely accomplished climbers themselves, but seem to enjoy the tinkering with and dissecting of climbing’s finer points as much as they enjoy actually climbing. Tension Climbi ...…
Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her ...…
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
Alex Biale has bouldered up to V13 and has done some impressive highballs. He also gets injured... a lot. He describes how he's trained through his climbing injuries and lays out his current training program that's made him more muscular and more injury-proof.
Photographer Jim Herrington's new photo book "The Climbers" is an undeniably compelling portrait collection of many of the most influential climbers of the 20th century, including Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, John Gill, Cesare Maestri, John Long, Jeff Lowe, and many more. Grand Prize Winner at the Banff Book Awards, "The Climbers" serves as an ...…
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
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