On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect through to America’s hat with Swiss crack-master, Didier Berthod. You might have heard about Didier from his recent send of Cobra Crack. The media mentions Didier disappearing from climbing for 10 years, returning to slay the Cobra, yada, yada, but that Didier’s completion of the Cobra has … Continue read…

In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their produc…

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using he…

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arri…

On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect through to America’s hat with Swiss crack-master, Didier Berthod. You might have heard about Didier from his recent send of Cobra Crack. The media mentions Didier disappearing from climbing for 10 years, returning to slay the Cobra, yada, yada, but that Didier’s completion of the Cobra has … Continue read…

In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world. When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In … Continue reading "Enormocast Tween…

In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world. When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In … Continue reading "Enormocast Tween…

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we a…

Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs. Bec…

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his…

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating di…

On Episode 285 of the Enormocast, after long last, I connect with Belgian rock-climber and alpinist, Nico Favresse. Nico is certainly a contender for the most experienced expedition rock-climber of all time. Perhaps only rivalled by his ubiquitous partner, Sean Villanueva-O’Driscoll? Nevertheless, Nico is an all-arounder who has tackled the biggest…

On Episode 285 of the Enormocast, after long last, I connect with Belgian rock-climber and alpinist, Nico Favresse. Nico is certainly a contender for the most experienced expedition rock-climber of all time. Perhaps only rivalled by his ubiquitous partner, Sean Villanueva-O’Driscoll? Nevertheless, Nico is an all-arounder who has tackled the biggest…

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. …

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take t…

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel …

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training. *Use the timestamps below…

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and ga…

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing…

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching sessi…

On Episode 284 of the Enormocast, we connect across the pond to North Wales in the U.K. and into the living room of Emma Twyford. Emma is a pioneering woman in that rarified air of hard, desperate trad that only the old country can serve up. She is the first British woman to climb 9a … Continue reading "Enormocast 284: Emma Twyford – Getting on Wit…

On Episode 284 of the Enormocast, we connect across the pond to North Wales in the U.K. and into the living room of Emma Twyford. Emma is a pioneering woman in that rarified air of hard, desperate trad that only the old country can serve up. She is the first British woman to climb 9a … Continue reading "Enormocast 284: Emma Twyford – Getting on Wit…

On Episode 283 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Munising, Michigan at the Michigan Icefest with Alaska-based alpinist, Clint Helander. What with the Chris Kalous Dance Party and the last call nightcap(s) at a bar literally called Whisky Dick’s, it had been a long night and an early morning for both … Continue reading "Enormocast 283: Cli…

On Episode 283 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Munising, Michigan at the Michigan Icefest with Alaska-based alpinist, Clint Helander. What with the Chris Kalous Dance Party and the last call nightcap(s) at a bar literally called Whisky Dick’s, it had been a long night and an early morning for both … Continue reading "Enormocast 283: Cli…

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book …

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between …

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a boulderin…

On Episode 282 of the Enormocast, I sit down with US Olympic qualifier, Natalia Grossman. That’s right, Natalia is headed to Paris to represent the US in Lead and Boulder combined (speed is separate this time around). But this moment was caught during a bit of down time for Natalia as she ramps up for … Continue reading "Enormocast 282: Natalia Gro…

On Episode 282 of the Enormocast, I sit down with US Olympic qualifier, Natalia Grossman. That’s right, Natalia is headed to Paris to represent the US in Lead and Boulder combined (speed is separate this time around). But this moment was caught during a bit of down time for Natalia as she ramps up for … Continue reading "Enormocast 282: Natalia Gro…

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+,…

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, Harvey Wright from Episode 222 returns to discuss his ongoing treatment and recovery for addiction. But more importantly, Harvey is here to talk about his new album, Patio Pacifica, written almost entirely while in a Vancouver treatment facility. Also, we talk about the rough and dirty years since … Con…

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, Harvey Wright from Episode 222 returns to discuss his ongoing treatment and recovery for addiction. But more importantly, Harvey is here to talk about his new album, Patio Pacifica, written almost entirely while in a Vancouver treatment facility. Also, we talk about the rough and dirty years since … Con…

Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, g…

Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic…

On Episode 281 of the Enormocast, Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins from Memphis Rox join to discuss the mission of the famous pay-what-you-can gym, Memphis Rox, in the inner-city of Memphis, TN. Jon is director of operations, and Tye went from walk-in to head coach and course-setter. Memphis Rox, founded by Tom Shadyac in 2018, … Continue reading "Enormoca…

On Episode 281 of the Enormocast, Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins from Memphis Rox join to discuss the mission of the famous pay-what-you-can gym, Memphis Rox, in the inner-city of Memphis, TN. Jon is director of operations, and Tye went from walk-in to head coach and course-setter. Memphis Rox, founded by Tom Shadyac in 2018, … Continue reading "Enormoca…

Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest bou…

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers …

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “…

Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more! Donate to C4C: climb…

On Episode 280 of the Enormocast we present the 2024 Taps edition of the Enormocast. This is the annual episode where we lay to rest traditions, foibles, and notions in climbing that are either sadly going to sleep never to reawaken, or should be put to bed for good. The Enormocast is joined by our … Continue reading "Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – Th…

On Episode 280 of the Enormocast we present the 2024 Taps edition of the Enormocast. This is the annual episode where we lay to rest traditions, foibles, and notions in climbing that are either sadly going to sleep never to reawaken, or should be put to bed for good. The Enormocast is joined by our … Continue reading "Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – Th…

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after ha…

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training fac…

On episode 279 of the Enormocast, we have an allt-ime double-header. First, David Smart joins from Toronto to talk about his life as a climber and his new book from The Mountaineers, Royal Robbins: The American Climber. Royal Robbins was one of the most influential climbers of all time, and David’s book is the most … Continue reading "Enormocast 27…

On episode 279 of the Enormocast, we have an allt-ime double-header. First, David Smart joins from Toronto to talk about his life as a climber and his new book from The Mountaineers, Royal Robbins: The American Climber. Royal Robbins was one of the most influential climbers of all time, and David’s book is the most … Continue reading "Enormocast 27…

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient cl…

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexi…

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he l…

On Episode 278 of the Enormocast, I connect with Thomas Bukowski from my home to his van sitting in Yosemite. Thomas had just completed three El Cap routes in three days, and was recovering. His next adventures in Patagonia were just on the horizon. Thomas is an American citizen, but is also half Chinese and … Continue reading "Enormocast 278: Thom…