If you've ever made a self deprecating joke about how you try to full crimp slopers, this episode is for you. Sloper tip video www.loom.com/share/afa8ee9c14854f54b113e4f577edd381?sid=f585837d-3c97-4244-957a-da3d066c1c07 Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goods…

The way you eat can make or break your outdoor climbing day. In this episode, we're explaining the nutrition strategies that will help you have high energy, enjoyable days at the crag. If you're done with crashing three routes in, this episode is for you. RESOURCES: Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up fo…

If you've ever thought to yourself, "damn it feels like I can climb all the V3s in my gym SO FAST, but as soon as I step up to a V4 or V5 I can't even do a single move", this episode is for you. Spoiler alert: what you THINK is your problem, probably isn't what you need to focus on. RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goo…

"That has way too much sodium!" "Can you believe how much salt is in that?" If you've ever been to a family gathering in America, you know that SOMEONE is complaining about how they've got to watch their sodium intake. But is it really that bad for you? And don't we need salt to stay hydrated? If you feel dazed and confused about salt - you aren't …

Caitlin goes to war with a yoga studio and the girls discuss why she did it. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map IMPORTANT LINKS: 1. Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submit…

BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Good Spray Custom Plan. Custom plan enrollment opens May 20, 2024 www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans Email …

The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about to tell you how to do just that. Learn about Good Spray Custom Plans: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans …

Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to ✅ have the energy to FOCUS when you show up to train In this episode, we're reviewing common time management pitfalls tha…

Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering - a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing - ramping back into climbing post-ski season - combining climbing + running - getting into bouldering as a sport climber and more! MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Video - training as a multi-sport athlete https://youtu.…

Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down - the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit - the difference between strength and power - how to avoid common power development pitfalls If you've ever complained about your power or contact strength - this episode is for you…

In this episode we're covering - the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one - the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best efforts MEGABETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track G…

We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A. In this episode, we discuss: - the truth about collagen research - what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for - the need-to-knows of leveraging creatine supplementation MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: Get…

For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "make you fat". On this podcast, we like to cut through that noise. And Caitlin has TWO amazing new resourc…

If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing. But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hindering their learning. So in this episode we're giving you our top tips for being the best climbing mentor …

Food is food, right? Sure. But before you go jumping into drinking tart cherry juice and dry scooping creatine - let's make sure you have your base nutrition covered. In this episode we're diving into ✅ the difference between basic and sports nutrition (and why you should care) ✅ pitfalls climbers make when over-prioritizing sports nutrition ✅ low …

We all know that veggies are good for you, and that eating enough of them is important for your health and wellbeing. So why is it so hard to eat enough of them? In this episode we cover ✅ why eating vegetables is important ✅ how to figure out what you actually like ✅ strategies for eating more of them (that won't make you miserable) MEGA BETA BAG:…

Dr. Parker Farabee is a man of many talents - climbing, ultra-running, and being a kick-ass physical therapist, specializing in outdoor athletes as well as support for athletes with neurological conditions. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com In this episode we cover - the difference between overtraining and under-recovering (they aren't the same!) …

No matter how many self love affirmation meditations you do, there are probably going to be days where you feel less than amazing about the way your body looks. So what can you do in those instances? And how can you keep these rough body image moments as short-lived as possible? In this episode we're bringing you a three step strategy to help you m…

It's February and love is in the air - and what better time to talk about the most sacred of our relationships: our climbing partnerships. In this episode we're sharing the top six things we look for in our climbing partners. And we have some special listener submitted treats: we've got a WILD gossip story for you and we're sharing the most common …

It's February - which means we're about a month into whatever goal, resolution, or habit you've been trying to pursue since January first. And the question is? Is that ambition still alive? Or did it get left behind last month? Either way, you're always able to pivot + reboot. So in this Snack Break we're discussing what we HATE about "resolutions"…

In this episode we're doing a tell-all with Dr. Davis Ngo, AKA Rehab Daddy. Maybe you know him from his hysterical climbing reels. Perhaps you've seen his stunning ascents of some of Bishop's spiciest highball boulders. No matter what, you're going to love this chat. Come for Davis's insightful fear management tips, stay for advice on dealing with …

When the hold feels impossibly far away, or when you keep tapping a hold, but you can't seem to latch it... You just need to try harder, right? Maybe. Maybe not. In this episode we're teaching you our sneakiest strategies for making those big moves and hard deadpoints happen. Sometimes the answer is trying harder, other times - you need to work sma…

Whether you're a coach who works with climbers, or you're an athlete looking to be a more compassionate self-coach, this episode is a must-listen. We're getting a behind the scenes look into how renowned clinical psychologist Dr. Lara Pence helps coaches support their athletes with motivation, injuries, body image and more. If you're ready to train…

Do you hate those scrunchy moves where your knee is in your face? Do those pistol squatty moves make you cringe? Well then this this episode is a must-listen. In this snack break we're bringing your our top tips for high foot, scrunchy moves. Lace up your stickiest shoes and get ready to bunch up! IMPORTANT LINKS AND RESOURCES: 1. Send Lauren an em…

Whether you're a "spreadsheet person", or planning gives you the ICK, there's value in having a plan - even if you don't exactly follow it. In this episode we're breaking down how to plan a year of climbing (no pencil-gnawing, hair pulling, or nail-biting required). IMPORTANT LINKS AND RESOURCES: 1. Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for…

A major AH-HA! moment is just a few questions away when with this guided nutrition reflection. So before you go diving into 2024, take a step back and consider how your nutrition impacted all areas of your life this year. And have a few laughs while you do it. Want a template to answer these questions on your own? Click here: https://docs.google.co…

Today we're bringing you some history on the tradition of yule logs - any tying it into your climbing and nutrition goals for the new year. You can always use some inspiration when setting new goals and this is a magical (and witchy!) place to start. If you're ready to free yourself from the bullshit and make moves in climbing that feel refreshing …

There's a good chance there's a type of climbing you refer to as an "anti-style".Whether it's slopers, steeps, slabs, or crimps - we'd bet there's a certain type of climbing that feels especially hard for you. So how do you go from "anti-style" to "I own this style"? And how long is that going to take? We're diving into that question on this episod…

The most wonderful time of the year? In some ways it is. And in other ways it can be the most challenging. Whether you're facing grief, difficult family dynamics, or simply a MOUNTAIN of extra to-dos and social invitations, the holidays can be a difficult time for a variety of reasons. And taking care of your body and your climbing goals? That stuf…

Hey there Average Climber - our crew is taking a break this week! We'll be back for more next week, in the meantime, check out episode one of Written in Stone. If you like the Average Climber Podcast, we can guarantee you'll LOVE this. Learn more about Plug Tone Audio's other great podcasts at www.plugtoneaudio.com.…

If you're like us, you LOVE bragging to your friends about what a great deal you got on something. So allow us to give you the opportunity to get some extravagantly generous deals on your nutrition and training needs. This Snack Break, we're breaking down the sales we're doing for Black Friday! Grab the deals now! Caitlin's deals www.caitlinholmes.…

If you've ever thought "gosh I wish I could send that grade faster, there's so many climbs I could do." or you've pondered what it would be like to step up to those cool, hard looking boulders in your gym. Or you have high hopes for how much you can progress your climbing in general, Then you have a choice to make. You can either keep assuming it'l…

Do big moves have you stumped? Do you get stuck when you have to huck yourself around on an overhang? Is static, balance-ey climbing your only happy place? If this sounds familiar, it's high time you start expanding your dynamic climbing skill set. Whether it's a mental thing or more of a physical struggle - this episode is holistically addressing …

You start a new training plan. You're so excited. You're ready to buckle down. Everything is going to be great! And then, some unexpected roadblocks pop up - like low energy, muscle soreness, being so hungry all the time. Instead of pressing on and assuming something is wrong with you, check out this episode instead. Your struggles are totally norm…

We have a special treat for you on our feed today - a trailer for Plug Tone's newest show, Written In Stone, climbing's most important ascents. Here's a word from the show's creator, Kris Hampton "I’m making what I wish was out there: a podcast that celebrates the rich stories of climbing history. The good, the bad, and the controversy. We’re start…

Caitlin has some big news to share with us, and you're going to have to listen to find out because we're not telling you what it is in the show notes! LINKS: Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact If the nutrition side of training has you stumpe…

We're throwing it back to the start of our climbing careers. From the way we trained, to our attitudes, to our haircuts - there is a LOT that we've learned since our first year of climbing. In this episode, we're giving you a heartfelt glimpse into the mistakes we made when we were n00bs in the climbing gym. We hope that sharing our blunders saves …

Whether the foot holds are too high, too low, too slippery, or challenging in other ways, footwork can pose a variety of challenges in climbing. In this snack break, we're breaking down eight of the most common footwork struggles climbers face and giving you a variety of ways to solve them. If you've ever been stumped by the footholds on a climb, t…

In part one of our series on intermittent fasting, we looked at the pros and cons of time restricted eating for general health. However, general health is not the only thing we want you to understand. We also want you to be aware of how intermittent fasting can impact your athletic pursuits. In part two of the series, we examine IF's impacts on str…

Did you know that creatine is one of the most studied supplements? Or that it can help increase your capacity for high power activity *ahem, rock climbing*. Well, now you know. In this episode we're discussing the upsides and downsides of this interesting supplement. We're answering a few listener questions too. If creatine has ever crossed your mi…

The information around intermittent fasting is as voluminous as it is confusing. Some health professionals tout it as a Holy Grail for health and longevity. But is it all it's cracked up to be? And is this nutrition strategy helpful for climbers? It's time to dig into the benefits, downsides, and everything in between when it comes to intermittent …

So little time so many climbs. The ever-present struggle when you find yourself on a climbing trip. Add in that your friends probably don't want to do the exact same climbs as you, and you've got yourself a real pickle. In this Snack Break, we're taking you through a guided exercise to help YOU get your plans and priorities straight for your next o…

If the moonboard were in the cast of Mean Girls - no questions asked, it'd be Regina George. People love it. People hate it. People are obsessed with it. People want to be around it. People want to be as far away from it as possible. Either way, they CANNOT stop talking about it. So in this episode we're cutting through the noise and getting to the…

Whether you're projecting the easiest route on the wall, or you're headed to a boulder that's far away from all the other ones, sometimes you don't always have access to the warm-up climbs you want. So what do you do in those situations? In this snack break, we're breaking down strategies for a proper warm-up even if you're climbing in a spot doesn…

Like it or not, your mental health impacts your climbing in more ways than you know. From how you deal with failure, to the ways you compare yourself to others, to managing your motivation levels - keeping your mental health in check is foundational to living a fulfilling life (and climbing harder while you're at it). In this episode, we sat down w…

Fitting strength training in around climbing can be tough. You know what makes it tougher? A commute to the gym. That's why, this episode will teach you about our five favorite pieces of equipment to help you build an effective strength set-up for your home. One that's so minimal, you can shove in a closet when your mother in law comes to visit. Sp…

Forget what those tabloids might say about "too much strength training making you bulky!" The truth is, gaining muscle doesn't happen by accident. It takes work – a lot of it. So don't freak out about getting "too big". Instead, consider this: as you age, your body gradually loses muscle mass - unless you do something about it, of course. That's wh…

This episode we're taking the time to help you with your questions and give you some tips to help with the woes of eating while camping. From non-perishable protein sources, to master online order schemes, to our top food planning tips, this episode will get you ready for your next camp cooking extravaganza! Resources mentioned in this episode: - G…

Weekend climbing trips can be in-tents...... heh? get it? So in this episode, we're breaking down our top eight tips for maximizing your camping and climbing endeavors. From Caitlin's best food prep tips, to tactics for weekend climbing, to our must-pack reminders, this episode is jam packed with practical tips for your next camping adventure! Read…

In training you can get into virtuous cycles or vicious ones... And one of the most insidious cycles happens when you have an all or nothing mindset towards training "if it isn't perfect and I can't do it all, I'm not doing any of it!" In this snack break, we're going to help you break that vicious cycle and learn to keep going - even when life fee…