show episodes
 
Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
 
Your weekly playbook about the inner game of building a business. Making business owners happier, happier and richer. Are you an entrepreneur, founder, business owner who wants to get 100% out of your time, talent and ideas? Do you want a competitive edge, an unfair advantage? If so, then you’ll love the behind the scenes, easy to implement tips the EDGE brings you. Much of the information you’ll learn is unconventional. Not just for the sake of being different, but because in the modern day ...
 
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show series
 
I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally…
 
I’m Taking New Nutrition Clients I’m currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you’re looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you’d like help with, I’m here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here. About Laura Schmidt My original idea for this podcast was to have …
 
Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six years ago, about living in Germany and translating training books by Udo Neumann, about coaching women, our global climbing family, and her current 5.…
 
New Gymnastics Rings Workshop with Coach Alex Stiger Do you want to know more about using the gymnastics rings as a training tool for climbing? On Tuesday, October 6th at 6-7:30pm MDT, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute workshop where you’ll learn the key considerations for using gynmastics rings in your trainin…
 
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’, his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an…
 
On Episode 227 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a van (his) in Rifle with return guest Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s career continues to flourish since his last appearance on the Enormocast with Mark Hudon and his first appearance back in 2018. The main topic on the table is Jordan’s saga with freeing Golden Gate … Continue reading "Enormocast 227: Jorda…
 
On Episode 227 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a van (his) in Rifle with return guest Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s career continues to flourish since his last appearance on the Enormocast with Mark Hudon and his first appearance back in 2018. The main topic on the table is Jordan’s saga with freeing Golden Gate … Continue reading "Enormocast 227: Jorda…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from …
 
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a livin…
 
About Lor Sabourin In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior’s Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels. Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor. I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in…
 
What is the best legal structure for your business? In this episode you get JJ Childers' top tips on choosing a business structure. These tips are an outtake from epsiode #7 where J.J , an attorney whose practice focuses on business asset protection, estate planning, and tax reduction, explains the advantages and disadvantages of each type of legal…
 
Tom McMurray is a retired venture capitalist from Sequoia Capital, angel investor and philanthropist. In episode #76 we talk about how venture capital works, Tom gives entrepreneurs who are looking to raise money from VC's some things to think about, and shares some great Silicon Valley stories from when he and his partners from Sequoia funded some…
 
Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in American Fork, most memorable routes and trips, bolting and training in the Hell Cave, creating the Grasshopper Board, and his vision for the future of arti…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley. We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send. Become a Patron …
 
Amer is CEO of Celential AI an artificial intelligence platform for recruiting located in Silicon Valley. He formerly was in management at Yahoo and a venture capitalist. In episode #79 Amer and I talk about what it takes to be an entrepreneur, what he calls reluctant entrepreneurs and we talk about the debate of are you born an entrepreneur or can…
 
Steven Dimmitt is an elite level rock climber, entrepreneur, and the host of The Nugget Climbing podcast. Steven had a pivotal moment in his life one day when he felt he was wasting away in his cubicle at work. He couldn't imagine a lifetime living the way he was... In this episode he gives his three high percentage tips and in the full episode #12…
 
Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named W…
 
On Episode 226 of the Enormocast, Stacy Bare (episode 103) returns to the Enormocast with an urgent message. At this moment, Afghanistan is in crisis and evacuations are underway for allies and Afghans who worked for, collaborated with, and trusted the American mission in their country. Through his Adventure Not War initiative, Stacy travelled to ……
 
On Episode 226 of the Enormocast, Stacy Bare (episode 103) returns to the Enormocast with an urgent message. At this moment, Afghanistan is in crisis and evacuations are underway for allies and Afghans who worked for, collaborated with, and trusted the American mission in their country. Through his Adventure Not War initiative, Stacy travelled to ……
 
Brian Hahn Co-founded Nomad with his business partner Noah Dentzel nine years ago. They've bootstrapped the company since it's inception. In episode #130 Brian and I talked about how he and Noah have been able to do it and sustain their growth. In this episode Brian gives his high percentage tips for fellow founders. Check the full episode for a pa…
 
New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don’t know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you’ll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You’ll Learn… …
 
John Lee Dumas is an Entrepreneur, Founder and host of the award winning podcast, Entrepreneurs On Fire. In a rare sixty minute interview in episode #73 John shares his journey from joining the army, leading a team of tanks in the Iraq war, working in commercial real estate, to starting and turning his podcast into a full time business. In this epi…
 
Steve Brown is an author and entrepreneur and in episode 40 explains why Entrepreneurs should write a book, how it has helped him grow his sales and how to do it. In this short episode he drops his 3 HPT's (high percentage tips) for fellow entrepreneurs. Check out episode #40 for these three HPT's and tons of other how to information about writing …
 
Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the fut…
 
Helen Sewart is owner of Coastal Wood Designs in Half Moon Bay, California. In episode #43 Helen tells her inspiring story of how entrepreneurship found her right out of high school because she didn't having enough money to buy gifts for friends and family. In this episode she gives fellow business owners some advice from her lessons learned starti…
 
Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15. Become a Pa…
 
Alan Payne started his career working at a grocery store. In episode #91 he explains how he managed to start a chain of Blockbuster stores that became the most profitable across all franchises in the U.S. In this episode he shares his top tips for fellow business owners. Alan is the author of an Amazon best selling book Built to Fail. The Inside St…
 
Becca Jordan Wright is the Founder of Piedmont Pennies, North Carolina's #1 handcrafted cheese snack. With a background in management consulting and technology, Becca's love for hospitality and food was finally realized when she launched Piedmont Pennies in September 2020 during the global COVID-19 pandemic. In this episode she shares her top tips …
 
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her…
 
Back from episode #49 where Jenna and Jeremy Chipps shared how they found the courage to sell everything, buy an RV, start a travel blog, and live the digital nomad life. In this episode they share their top tips for people who want to become digital nomads. Check out our full conversation in episode 49. PLEASE SUPPORT OUR SPONSORS WHO MAKE THIS PO…
 
On Episode 225 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a yard with goats with ice climber, Manoah Ainuu. Manoah popped up on a lot of climbers’ radars in the film Black Ice from last year’s Reel Rock, but he’s been a North Face Athlete for 3 years and getting it done in Bozeman for … Continue reading "Enormocast 225: Manoah Ainuu – Life’s Sustenance"…
 
On Episode 225 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a yard with goats with ice climber, Manoah Ainuu. Manoah popped up on a lot of climbers’ radars in the film Black Ice from last year’s Reel Rock, but he’s been a North Face Athlete for 3 years and getting it done in Bozeman for … Continue reading "Enormocast 225: Manoah Ainuu – Life’s Sustenance"…
 
About Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film “Light” about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her…
 
Tony has had an amazing entrepreneur career. He's sold several companies, raised a record breaking amount in a crowdfunding campaign that went against conventual wisdom of using Kickstarter and offers his top three pieces of advice for fellow founders and business owners. Find Tony at: RescueTime - Take Back Control of Your Time Tony Wright's Homep…
 
Travis offers his advice for fellow business founders in this short episode. In episode # 97 Travis joined us and shared his incredible entrepreneur journey from being a private pilot, to a dive instructor to smuggling a boat out of a country in South America. If you haven't listened to our conversation about all this, go back to episode #97 after …
 
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest…
 
A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast…
 
Nancy Connor had a successful career in sales in corporate America and one day, literally, decided she had enough and walked out, dropped the mic. The next day she founded Smart Adaptive Clothing to follow her calling. I've known Nancy over three years and she's built a real business. Please support our sponsors that make this podcast possible... T…
 
About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program,…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode…
 
Dr. Shannon appeared on episode 106 and shared tons of information about working out, how to do it without destroying your joints and other great workout trips. Dr. Shannon is an Entrepreneur, Doctor of Physical Therapy, wife and transitioned from owning a cash-pay physical therapy practice to exclusively focusing on creating safe exercise programs…
 
Kadin has several successful online businesses from selling on eBay to building a YouTube channel, to building an app and using YouTube to promote it, to selling on Amazon. He lays out exactly how he did all if it in episode 9. In this episode he lays out his top three tips for you. You'll want to listen to the full espisode because it's packed wit…
 
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