This week we're digging into the archives and sharing Caitlin's interview on the Power Company Podcast. Caitlin and Kris discuss: Why changing body composition doesn't always mean weight loss The long-term and short-term risks of being undernourished as an athlete. What BMI really means, and why we should throw it out the window. Why bodyweight rea…

Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Eleme…

We've been on quite a few climbing trips in our day and we've experienced the good, the bad, and the ugly. There's been drama, illness, tents getting destroyed in the wind - you name it. In this episode we're sharing our tips for having a stress-free climbing trip (and how to maximize FUN). If your climbing trips have ever been less than enjoyable,…

Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community. Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover …

Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their exper…

The phrase "calories in, calories out" gets tossed around like a hacky sack at springtime on a college campus. But is it really that simple? Or is there more to it? And is the practice of tracking your food intake or "calorie counting" good for you? Or is it an obsessive behavior associated with disordered eating habits? Should you ever do it? Or a…

In this episode we're taking you through the process that Lauren uses each week to plan her training and the methods she uses with her athletes as well. She takes you through the weekly reflection + planning process that will help you - feel less stressed about fitting your training into your life - get more training sessions done (and have them be…

Is being a short climber harder? Or are short climbers making it up? This week, we're joined by special guest Juliet Hammer, CSCS to discuss all that and more. Juliet is a certified badass, a climbing coach, and has climbed more double digit boulders than we care to count. From taking home hardware at outdoor bouldering competitions like the Triple…

If you've ever made a self deprecating joke about how you try to full crimp slopers, this episode is for you. Sloper tip video www.loom.com/share/afa8ee9c14854f54b113e4f577edd381?sid=f585837d-3c97-4244-957a-da3d066c1c07 Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goods…

The way you eat can make or break your outdoor climbing day. In this episode, we're explaining the nutrition strategies that will help you have high energy, enjoyable days at the crag. If you're done with crashing three routes in, this episode is for you. RESOURCES: Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up fo…

If you've ever thought to yourself, "damn it feels like I can climb all the V3s in my gym SO FAST, but as soon as I step up to a V4 or V5 I can't even do a single move", this episode is for you. Spoiler alert: what you THINK is your problem, probably isn't what you need to focus on. RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goo…

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER Y…

"That has way too much sodium!" "Can you believe how much salt is in that?" If you've ever been to a family gathering in America, you know that SOMEONE is complaining about how they've got to watch their sodium intake. But is it really that bad for you? And don't we need salt to stay hydrated? If you feel dazed and confused about salt - you aren't …

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you ha…

Caitlin goes to war with a yoga studio and the girls discuss why she did it. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map IMPORTANT LINKS: 1. Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submit…

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you j…

BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Good Spray Custom Plan. Custom plan enrollment opens May 20, 2024 www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans Email …

The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about to tell you how to do just that. Learn about Good Spray Custom Plans: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans …

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratt…

Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to ✅ have the energy to FOCUS when you show up to train In this episode, we're reviewing common time management pitfalls tha…

Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering - a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing - ramping back into climbing post-ski season - combining climbing + running - getting into bouldering as a sport climber and more! MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Video - training as a multi-sport athlete https://youtu.…

Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down - the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit - the difference between strength and power - how to avoid common power development pitfalls If you've ever complained about your power or contact strength - this episode is for you…

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this …

In this episode we're covering - the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one - the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best efforts MEGABETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track G…

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. …

Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impa…

Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over …

Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing. He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises fed…

Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely... Read the rest on the blo…

We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A. In this episode, we discuss: - the truth about collagen research - what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for - the need-to-knows of leveraging creatine supplementation MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: Get…

For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "make you fat". On this podcast, we like to cut through that noise. And Caitlin has TWO amazing new resourc…

Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that mi…

If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing. But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hindering their learning. So in this episode we're giving you our top tips for being the best climbing mentor …

Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet. In this episode, we…

For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way. In this episod…

Food is food, right? Sure. But before you go jumping into drinking tart cherry juice and dry scooping creatine - let's make sure you have your base nutrition covered. In this episode we're diving into ✅ the difference between basic and sports nutrition (and why you should care) ✅ pitfalls climbers make when over-prioritizing sports nutrition ✅ low …

We all know that veggies are good for you, and that eating enough of them is important for your health and wellbeing. So why is it so hard to eat enough of them? In this episode we cover ✅ why eating vegetables is important ✅ how to figure out what you actually like ✅ strategies for eating more of them (that won't make you miserable) MEGA BETA BAG:…

Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to fin…

Dr. Parker Farabee is a man of many talents - climbing, ultra-running, and being a kick-ass physical therapist, specializing in outdoor athletes as well as support for athletes with neurological conditions. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com In this episode we cover - the difference between overtraining and under-recovering (they aren't the same!) …

A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong. In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer str…

Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that’s fine, too. There’s no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There’s no shame in using a …

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presen…

No matter how many self love affirmation meditations you do, there are probably going to be days where you feel less than amazing about the way your body looks. So what can you do in those instances? And how can you keep these rough body image moments as short-lived as possible? In this episode we're bringing you a three step strategy to help you m…

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant the…

It's February and love is in the air - and what better time to talk about the most sacred of our relationships: our climbing partnerships. In this episode we're sharing the top six things we look for in our climbing partners. And we have some special listener submitted treats: we've got a WILD gossip story for you and we're sharing the most common …

Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coac…

It's February - which means we're about a month into whatever goal, resolution, or habit you've been trying to pursue since January first. And the question is? Is that ambition still alive? Or did it get left behind last month? Either way, you're always able to pivot + reboot. So in this Snack Break we're discussing what we HATE about "resolutions"…

Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you’ll hear …

In this episode we're doing a tell-all with Dr. Davis Ngo, AKA Rehab Daddy. Maybe you know him from his hysterical climbing reels. Perhaps you've seen his stunning ascents of some of Bishop's spiciest highball boulders. No matter what, you're going to love this chat. Come for Davis's insightful fear management tips, stay for advice on dealing with …

Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster. In this bonus episode from our Patron feed…