Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the ...
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Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.
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A climbing podcast from The Climbing Zine
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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
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Podcast by Better Climbing Beta
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Ep 63: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement with Kris Hampton
1:45:16
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The way we've all been learned about climbing movement feels a little bit like the way you earn badges in the Girl Scouts. You learn a new trick here, add a heel hook there, working on not stamping your feet around and pivoting on your toes - and on and on. The problem? It's all disjointed. Like we're stuffing things into a bag of tricks instead of…
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As we move into the fall climbing season, you might notice that a few of your outdoor skills are a little rusty. And we bet you're forgetting about this skill in particular: your nutrition. So stick around for three important reminders from your friendly, neighborhood, outdoor-focused nutrition specialist. This is the nutrition pre-game speech you …
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The Mom Crux with Mallory Logan (co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz)
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We finally get to sit down with Mallory Logan, the Art Director for The Climbing Zine, to have a conversation about the history of The Zine and Dirtbag State of Mind. Plus the crux of becoming a Mom at 21 years old. Co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz, our Publisher Emeritus. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Scor…
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Using gamification to improve your outdoor climbing
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35:23
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What if you could take what you love about board games... and apply that to your outdoor climbing? In this episode we're teaching you how to gamify your climbing pursuits to make them more fun - and make getting out of your comfort zone feel like a cool challenge instead of a training chore. Sign up here to receive the special edition, private podc…
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Ep 62: 8 negative thought patterns that are stifling your training progress
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1:03:00
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You know that rude voice in your head that talks shit about you sometimes? Yeah, us too. So in this episode, we're guiding you through eight common thought patterns that are hindering your progress in climbing. And p.s. these thought patterns are making your training suck a lot more than it needs to. Let's form some new patterns, shall we? IMPORTAN…
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Beats, Climbs, and Life: A Conversation with Kris Hampton
1:17:00
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The last in our series of conversations recorded in Lander, Wyoming this summer, with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing. Kris is our first repeat guest, and we discuss climbing friendships, the Olympics, hip-hop and much more. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store …
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BONUS | Remus Knowles on the Climbers and Ascents We Missed in Season 1
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Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points. Become a Patron and g…
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"Quirky" (read: kinda bad). Every gym can't be a perfect, peaceful training oasis. Sometimes you have to work with what you have - so in this week's episode, we're giving your our top three tips for getting your training done, no matter how "quirky" your gym may be. NOTE: BOGO Sale is running August 23-30! Sign up for Lauren's Consistency Challenge…
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Body Composition for Climbers, Caitlin's feature on the Power Company Climbing Podcast
1:23:59
1:23:59
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This week we're digging into the archives and sharing Caitlin's interview on the Power Company Podcast. Caitlin and Kris discuss: Why changing body composition doesn't always mean weight loss The long-term and short-term risks of being undernourished as an athlete. What BMI really means, and why we should throw it out the window. Why bodyweight rea…
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BONUS | Matt Samet on Climbing Mags from the 90s to Now
24:26
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Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this. In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of prin…
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You Belong Here: A Conversation With Steve Bechtel
1:12:42
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The second conversation from our series of interviews in Lander, Wyoming. Steve Bechtel is a local legend in Lander, and runs two successful businesses: Climb Strong and Elemental Fitness. We have a really fun conversation ranging from old climbing stories of his with Todd Skinner, to the modern world of work, business, publishing, and climbing. Zi…
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How to stress-proof your climbing trip, what Caitlin learned in Lander, WY
40:53
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We've been on quite a few climbing trips in our day and we've experienced the good, the bad, and the ugly. There's been drama, illness, tents getting destroyed in the wind - you name it. In this episode we're sharing our tips for having a stress-free climbing trip (and how to maximize FUN). If your climbing trips have ever been less than enjoyable,…
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Ep 61: Should you count calories? Pros, cons and our thoughts on intuitive eating
1:17:07
1:17:07
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The phrase "calories in, calories out" gets tossed around like a hacky sack at springtime on a college campus. But is it really that simple? Or is there more to it? And is the practice of tracking your food intake or "calorie counting" good for you? Or is it an obsessive behavior associated with disordered eating habits? Should you ever do it? Or a…
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Holding Space and Leading The Way: A Conversation with Shara Zaia
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57:49
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The first of our series of conversations recorded this summer in Lander, Wyoming. Shara Zaia wrote a beautiful piece is Volume 24, our current issue, and we discuss that essay and much more. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 6: Kilter: http:/…
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How to do a Sunday training reset, "Planning is HOT"
48:20
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In this episode we're taking you through the process that Lauren uses each week to plan her training and the methods she uses with her athletes as well. She takes you through the weekly reflection + planning process that will help you - feel less stressed about fitting your training into your life - get more training sessions done (and have them be…
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Ep 60: How to crush at being a short climber with Juliet Hammer, CSCS
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1:03:19
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Is being a short climber harder? Or are short climbers making it up? This week, we're joined by special guest Juliet Hammer, CSCS to discuss all that and more. Juliet is a certified badass, a climbing coach, and has climbed more double digit boulders than we care to count. From taking home hardware at outdoor bouldering competitions like the Triple…
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Introducing our first ever mixtape from The Climbing Zine. The Microdose Mixtape pairs Luke Mehall’s spoken word poetry, with the music of Devin Dabney. Enjoy. Merch is available here: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Tapes and vinyl will be available shortly… SourceBy Luke Mehall
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Three tips that will change the way you climb slopers
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If you've ever made a self deprecating joke about how you try to full crimp slopers, this episode is for you. Sloper tip video www.loom.com/share/afa8ee9c14854f54b113e4f577edd381?sid=f585837d-3c97-4244-957a-da3d066c1c07 Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goods…
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Ep 59: Mastering the art of crag snacking, nutrient timing for outdoor climbing
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The way you eat can make or break your outdoor climbing day. In this episode, we're explaining the nutrition strategies that will help you have high energy, enjoyable days at the crag. If you're done with crashing three routes in, this episode is for you. RESOURCES: Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up fo…
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If you've ever thought to yourself, "damn it feels like I can climb all the V3s in my gym SO FAST, but as soon as I step up to a V4 or V5 I can't even do a single move", this episode is for you. Spoiler alert: what you THINK is your problem, probably isn't what you need to focus on. RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goo…
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A conversation with Taylor Luneau. Taylor discovered climbing after an injury derailed his ice hockey career. Taylor and Luke have a wide ranging conversation from local climbing organizations to the relationship of climate change and ice climbing, and much more. Plus in the outro is the premiere of the poem 5.6+ from the upcoming Microdose Mixtape…
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Climbing in the 90s: Cultural Shifts and Lessons Learned from Season One
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Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of. In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner,…
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Shara Zaia reads her essay published in Volume 24 of The Climbing Zine. Plus a bonus tune from James Parr, inspired by Greg Petliski’s essay, Scotch on The Rocks, also published in Volume 24. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips…
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Episode 58: Is salt bad for you? "tasty, magic crystals"
51:34
51:34
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"That has way too much sodium!" "Can you believe how much salt is in that?" If you've ever been to a family gathering in America, you know that SOMEONE is complaining about how they've got to watch their sodium intake. But is it really that bad for you? And don't we need salt to stay hydrated? If you feel dazed and confused about salt - you aren't …
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SB: the problem with "earning" your food ft. Caitlin making enemies
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35:45
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Caitlin goes to war with a yoga studio and the girls discuss why she did it. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map IMPORTANT LINKS: 1. Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submit…
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BONUS: What does a climbing coach do [behind the scenes]
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19:30
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BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Good Spray Custom Plan. Custom plan enrollment opens May 20, 2024 www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans Email …
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Ep 57: Good vs. great training and nutrition, "from 'meh' to kickass!"
1:06:46
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The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about to tell you how to do just that. Learn about Good Spray Custom Plans: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans …
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SB: Top 3 time management pitfalls of busy climbers
30:57
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Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to ✅ have the energy to FOCUS when you show up to train In this episode, we're reviewing common time management pitfalls tha…
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Training Q&A: tackling fear on lead, comp style climbing, and balancing multiple hobbies
30:51
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Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering - a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing - ramping back into climbing post-ski season - combining climbing + running - getting into bouldering as a sport climber and more! MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Video - training as a multi-sport athlete https://youtu.…
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Ep 55: What climbers get wrong about power
1:18:41
1:18:41
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Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down - the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit - the difference between strength and power - how to avoid common power development pitfalls If you've ever complained about your power or contact strength - this episode is for you…
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Ep 56: What to do when you aren't improving, "use facts not vibes"
1:11:21
1:11:21
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In this episode we're covering - the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one - the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best efforts MEGABETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track G…
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Eva Lopez on Women in Sports, Rivalries, and What Josune Means to Climbing History
57:56
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Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for climbing, she’s also a crusher. She was the 5th woman to to climb 8c and in 2013, at 42 years old, climbed her first 8c+, a route she bolted called Potemkin. In this episode, Eva and Kris discuss the state o…
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Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu first tied in as the 80’s were changing into the 90’s, after seeing a documentary showing two women climbing in the Verdon. Within those first few months of Josune learning to climb, Lynn Hill did the first 14a ever climbed by a woman. By the middle of the 90’s Josune became the 5th woman to equal the feat, which …
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Luke Mehall reads his piece, “Climbs Fall Apart” which is published in Volume 24 of The Climbing Zine; the episode ends with his poem “A Climber Who Cries” from the upcoming Microdose Mixtape. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http…
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Nutrition Q&A: Collagen, Creatine, and How long to "bulk"
27:34
27:34
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We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A. In this episode, we discuss: - the truth about collagen research - what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for - the need-to-knows of leveraging creatine supplementation MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: Get…
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Chris Schulte on the Magic of Fontainebleau, Climbing Lifelist Boulders and Catherine Miquel
1:15:37
1:15:37
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Chris Schulte is a boulderer who is obsessed with the lines and shapes of climbing. He fell in love with Fontainebleau many years ago based on a photo of Fred Nicole climbing Karma and has cultivated a relationship with the forest and climbed many life-list boulders there. In this episode, Kris asks Chris to describe the forest in his poetic way, a…
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Ep 54: Does your nutrition approach feel fuzzy? "It's time for a vibe check"
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For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "make you fat". On this podcast, we like to cut through that noise. And Caitlin has TWO amazing new resourc…
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Pursuing The Struggle with Felipe Garcia
1:08:22
1:08:22
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A conversation with Felipe Garcia. Felipe and Luke have a conversation about climbing in Guatemala, first ascents, living, working, and training on a boat for two months, and much more at the outdoor studio in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online st…
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Throughout the 90s, Catherine Miquel was the undisputed queen of bouldering. Surprised you haven’t heard her name? I was too, but we aren’t alone. Not many of the people I’ve talked to know of her or her incredible resume. Climbing in Fontainebleau, she entered the decade as the only woman to climb V8, and then it was off to the races. Again and ag…
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SNACK BREAK: How to *actually* help your friend who just started climbing
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If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing. But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hindering their learning. So in this episode we're giving you our top tips for being the best climbing mentor …
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Josie McKee on Curiosity and the Mindset of Climbing Freerider
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Josie McKee is a climbing guide, former YOSAR member, all-around big wall super badass and a climbing coach through her company Mind Athlete. She’s climbed El Cap over 20 times, set several speed records, has free climbed damn near every Valley classic, and her Yosemite resume rivals just about anyone’s. In this episode, Josie walks Kris through ea…
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Chris Kalous on Freerider, Big Wall Climbing Rules, and How the Hubers Shifted History
1:12:24
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If you were following Chris Kalous and The Enormocast in the early days, then you are well aware that he’s climbed Freerider. And if you follow his new show, The Runout, you know how interested he is in the history of one specific pitch of The Free Salathe - Pitch 19 - the pitch that Alex Huber subverted by climbing the Monster Offwidth, thus layin…
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Climbing Is Not About Climbing with Chad Reich
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A preseason conversation with our digital editor and producer Chad Reich. Plus a poem from our upcoming Microdose Mixtape. Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store… SourceBy Luke Mehall
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Episode 53: Know the difference between sports nutrition and basic nutrition, “carbs are king”
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Food is food, right? Sure. But before you go jumping into drinking tart cherry juice and dry scooping creatine - let's make sure you have your base nutrition covered. In this episode we're diving into ✅ the difference between basic and sports nutrition (and why you should care) ✅ pitfalls climbers make when over-prioritizing sports nutrition ✅ low …
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In 1998, Alex and Thomas Huber climbed the first ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in just over 15 hours. Their climb ushered in a new era of big wall free climbing, and there’s no question it was a hugely important moment in climbing history. But the way we credit it, most often simply to Alex Huber, ignores the rich history of the route. The Hube…
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SNACK BREAK: Eat the rainbow! Our top three tips for eating more veggies
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We all know that veggies are good for you, and that eating enough of them is important for your health and wellbeing. So why is it so hard to eat enough of them? In this episode we cover ✅ why eating vegetables is important ✅ how to figure out what you actually like ✅ strategies for eating more of them (that won't make you miserable) MEGA BETA BAG:…
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How to Climb Cowboy Direct: Jordan Cannon on The Struggle Climbing Show
1:44:31
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Today, we're featuring a great conversation between our friend Ryan Devlin, host and creator of the Struggle Climbing Show and member of the Plug Tone Collective, and Jordan Cannon. In this bonus episode, Jordan takes us on the unbelievable adventure of tackling one of the toughest high-altitude big wall ascents in the world, the Cowboy Direct rout…
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Episode 52: Overtraining vs. Under-recovering and physical therapy red flags, "not just a shark" with Dr. Parker Farabee
1:21:06
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Dr. Parker Farabee is a man of many talents - climbing, ultra-running, and being a kick-ass physical therapist, specializing in outdoor athletes as well as support for athletes with neurological conditions. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com In this episode we cover - the difference between overtraining and under-recovering (they aren't the same!) …
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Mike Lilygren on Todd Skinner, Leadership, and Climbing Trango Tower
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In his book, Beyond the Summit, Todd Skinner wrote, “Mike Lilygren had a schoolboy face and Dennis the Menace hair, an irritatingly endless sense of humor, and a tinkerer’s mind for detail. He would turn into “the closer” on the expedition, the one who kept getting stronger as the burden increased, the keystone that bridged the way to the summit.” …
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Jordan Cannon on Cowboy Direct, Climbing History and the Importance of Storytelling
1:22:12
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In 2023, Yosemite big wall free climbing ace Jordan Cannon joined Matt Segal and Jesse Huey on a trip to Pakistan to test their mettle against Trango Tower. Specifically, they were looking at the unrepeated Cowboy Direct, established in 1995 by Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Bobby Model and Jeff Bechtel. In this episode, Kris and Jordan discuss the a…
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